Collet style Flex Hex couplers

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  • FighterCat57
    "The" Fighter Cat
    • Apr 2010
    • 3480

    #1

    Collet style Flex Hex couplers

    I'm curious if they could be adapted to work on the EKOS C1?

    Like these: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Motor+Couplers

    They look to be a much more reliable design than a typical set screw coupler.

    Any thoughts?
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    Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011, 10:32 PM.
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  • Jeff Wohlt
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jan 2008
    • 2716

    #2
    I have some 1/8x130 and I think they will work. I am checking length but I think they are about 25mm long so check it out of you can on your boat.
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    [email protected]

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    • FighterCat57
      "The" Fighter Cat
      • Apr 2010
      • 3480

      #3
      stock ones are 20mm, but looks like there's room for the extra 5mm.

      What is the OD, so I can check if it fits in the motor mount center hole?
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      Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011, 10:32 PM.
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      • FighterCat57
        "The" Fighter Cat
        • Apr 2010
        • 3480

        #4
        NOTE* the center hole in the stock motor mount is about 1/2".

        I'm still interested in a pair.
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        Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011, 10:36 PM.
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        • forescott
          Hopelessly Addicted to RC
          • Nov 2009
          • 2686

          #5
          I already tried these in the ekos. They are too big for the motor mount center hole. I modified mine by grinding away at the outer part of the collet to make them fit inside the hole. They worked great, but I ended up going to a different coupler because the collets are MUCH heavier than an alluminum coupler and I lost 2mph with the collets. They hold the flex cables really tight, but they load the motors excessively.

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          • FighterCat57
            "The" Fighter Cat
            • Apr 2010
            • 3480

            #6
            Originally posted by forescott
            I already tried these in the ekos. They are too big for the motor mount center hole. I modified mine by grinding away at the outer part of the collet to make them fit inside the hole. They worked great, but I ended up going to a different coupler because the collets are MUCH heavier than an alluminum coupler and I lost 2mph with the collets. They hold the flex cables really tight, but they load the motors excessively.

            I just finished doing an upgrade to 540 motors with a 5mm shaft, so am seriously looking for a good 5mm to 3mm coupler about 25mm long. The new motors have a much longer shaft, so no need to worry about the center hole size any longer.

            see attached photo. I want to replace the coupler with a good one. I already tapped it out to use 4mm stainless set screws, but am still worried about it coming loose. Right now it's all full of lock tite and prayers. =)

            *update- so far it's held together nicely, but too well. I'll have to force them apart to do shaft maintenance.
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            Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011, 10:36 PM.
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            • tiqueman
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jul 2009
              • 5669

              #7
              Looking at the picture, whats the slicone tubing doing there? Is it just not slipped over the stuffing tube fopr water intrusion purposes? If your worried about the collet coming undone, get yourself some wheel collars and lock them on the shafts between the collet and the stuffing tube. Then if they do come undone, the collet will hold the shaft in the boat and you wont lose anything. Ask me how I learned that 15 years ago.


              EDIT If the silicone is there for shaft security, its a 50 50 shot it wont be there if the collet breaks loose.
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              • FighterCat57
                "The" Fighter Cat
                • Apr 2010
                • 3480

                #8
                Originally posted by tiqueman
                Looking at the picture, whats the slicone tubing doing there? Is it just not slipped over the stuffing tube fopr water intrusion purposes? If your worried about the collet coming undone, get yourself some wheel collars and lock them on the shafts between the collet and the stuffing tube. Then if they do come undone, the collet will hold the shaft in the boat and you wont lose anything. Ask me how I learned that 15 years ago.


                EDIT If the silicone is there for shaft security, its a 50 50 shot it wont be there if the collet breaks loose.
                They are on order... the tubing is just something in the mean time. It does help keep the stuffing tube from coming out on the port side.
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                Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011, 10:37 PM.
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                • tiqueman
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jul 2009
                  • 5669

                  #9
                  Originally posted by BenjaminR
                  They are on order... the tubing is just something in the mean time. It does help keep the stuffing tube from coming out on the port side.
                  Haha, already been there huh? Just be aware that you can still lose it w/ the silicone. Especially on a twin boat. Nice you put 540s in it.
                  Geico epoxy laminate hatch sale thread Black Jack epoxy laminate hatch sale thread
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                  • Ub Hauled
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Aug 2007
                    • 3031

                    #10
                    Originally posted by forescott
                    I already tried these in the ekos. They are too big for the motor mount center hole. I modified mine by grinding away at the outer part of the collet to make them fit inside the hole. They worked great, but I ended up going to a different coupler because the collets are MUCH heavier than an alluminum coupler and I lost 2mph with the collets. They hold the flex cables really tight, but they load the motors excessively.
                    IMO, having a better grip is worth a couple of mph (if that's accurate), I really hate to loose props that I spent some time working on... it hurts that much more when even the flex is gone... I don't think that there is an EXCESSIVE load on the 380 motors, specially after they are spinning already, they kinda work like a fly wheel.
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                    • Steven Vaccaro
                      Administrator
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 8718

                      #11
                      Thats interesting. I've never lost speed in going from Aluminum to Octura Hex.
                      Steven Vaccaro

                      Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

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                      • FighterCat57
                        "The" Fighter Cat
                        • Apr 2010
                        • 3480

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro
                        Thats interesting. I've never lost speed in going from Aluminum to Octura Hex.

                        It doesn't make sense that it would... maybe tube friction/installation affected it?

                        BTW- I'm going to want a few hex couplers, for 5mm motor shaft. Probably a couple shafts/sleeves and prop dogs too.
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                        Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011, 10:42 PM.
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                        • Jeff Wohlt
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Jan 2008
                          • 2716

                          #13
                          You can cut those motor shafts back a bit to gain more room if you wanted.
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                          [email protected]

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