Cheap waterproofing that works!

[ozzie-crawl]

yes they guy didnt just say its fully water proof he proved it.
a few years ago a mate and myself took some 100a tenshock esc,s and put them in side 30x50mm (from memory) alloy box,we used thermal tape to stick down a piece of 3mm alloy flat bar on to the fets then applied thermal paste on top of the plate (esc had fets both sides) the 3mm flat and the thickness of the tape was enough so we could squeeze the esc inside the box section. we then capped the ends and sealed with sikaflex.
they worked great the whole box was a cooling plate and 100% water proof
my mate still has one working.they were completely submerged in water a few times and still worked.

[daveives]

"Waterproof"

There is a big difference between water resistant and water proof.

Water resistant may be good enough for boats that only occasionally get a few drops of water inside an enclosure which contains an ESC.

Water proof is needed for ESCs that normally run under water, such as some of my OPC outboard tunnel hulls with the ESC mounted on the cavitation plate of the outboard engine. The ESC is underwater when the boat is not moving!

From my experience:

Epoxy DOES NOT reliably waterproof an ESC - eventually water will seep in along the flexible silicon leads.

I now use Permatex Ultra Blue RTV Silicone Sensor-Safe Gasket Maker Item# 81724. This stuff really is strong and adheres very well to plastic, wood and silicone insulation. Just try a gob over some silicone wire or silicone tubing to wood or plexiglass; you likely will not be able to pull it apart!

I tried tool-dip, then liquid tape (2 different brands), then Zap thin finishing epoxy heated, then conformal coating (3 coatings) , and combinations of these to waterproof ESC's that get submerged in normal operation. All of these waterproofing efforts failed. It takes silicone to bond correctly to the silicone wire insulation and silicone cooling tubing. Epoxy (and all the other waterproofing methods I tried before the Sensor-Safe Silicone) eventually leaks along the silicone wire insulation, killing the esc. These methods eventually fail for me after typically 8 sessions or so at the pond.

I also have had good luck so far with Permatex Sensor-Safe Blue Silicone Gasket Maker which costs under $4 at Wal-Mart for 3 ounces, but the Ultra seems stronger for just a couple of dollars more.

My thanks go to the unidentified rescuer at the 2009 NEAT Fair who told me about the Ultra Blue.

I also have had better luck with my motors which HAVE NOT been water waterproofed at all, just squirted with Corrosion Plus after running. With a motor, waterproofing leads to capturing the water from an inevitable small leak which does not dry out, causing corrosion over time.

At least this is what works best for me, and I have about a dozen blown ESCs of experience behind these recommendations.

[ozzie-crawl]

i have found conformal coating to work on single layer board esc,s but anything multi layered its more of a splash resistance just my experiance,covering the esc with plastic dip may work if you have no leads coming of the esc (bullets) as the plastic dip wont stick to the silicon leads

[Jeff Wohlt]

That is good info, Dave.

[BHChieftain]

I have a Hydra 240 which has an integrated watercooler and has a plastic wrap around it-- it states it is water resistant. What's the best method to waterproof this one?
-Chief

[RandyatBBY]

I have to agree with John on this info. I have used several different coatings to preserve my ESC. I usually have two or three of them in different sizes since race several different sizes of boats. IE two 40.160, two Hydra 240, three CC 80LV, one CC120LV, One M-2000 and a couple of 60 and 30 amp ESC.

I tried the tool coating a long time ago it leaked the fastest and I got corrosion and ESC failure under the coating the soonest.

For quite a while I used the potable epoxy it did make the ESC waterproof for about three years and completely voided the warrantee . It also made it imposable to have the ESC repaired. that is a whole discussion in it self.

I have been using GM spray on conformal coating for quite a long time now on all of my ESC's except the 40.160. On them I have been using CorrisionX this needs to be renewed quite often. I have one 40.160 in Germany being repaired for the second time. and the other one works great. The two Hydra 240: one needs to have a capacitor connection re soldered to cure it problem. Other than normal destruction the Hydras have worked great with the Conformal coating on them.

My use of the equipment is on the heavy side. I run a lot, most of the time I am racing oval or SAW so I feel I have a good base line to draw from. I hope I have helped to give my view as I see it.

[RandyatBBY]

I have a Hydra 240 which has an integrated watercooler and has a plastic wrap around it-- it states it is water resistant. What's the best method to waterproof this one?
-Chief

It has Conformal coating on it from the factory should be good for a long time.

[sailr]

I wonder when the ESC manufacturers are gonna truly waterproof their products!? It would certainly be worth an extra $20 or so!

[RandyatBBY]

I wonder when the ESC manufacturers are gonna truly waterproof their products!? It would certainly be worth an extra $20 or so!

I think it is a matter of what is available and what works with there components. I have been afraid of using Conformal coating on Schultz's!

[sailr]

There are potting compounds out there for encapsulating electronic circuits, like the Aquacraft ESC's. I'm not sure why we aren't building a little box, putting the esc in it, and pouring it with the compound! Any comments?

[RandyatBBY]

There are potting compounds out there for encapsulating electronic circuits, like the Aquacraft ESC's. I'm not sure why we aren't building a little box, putting the esc in it, and pouring it with the compound! Any comments?

Repair ability? I know that some ESC's are done that way but I prefer to see a thiner coating that can be removed and the ESC can be repaired.

[sailr]

I see your point but with the Chinese esc's, it costs more to send it in than it's worth. Repair? I usually take the bullets off and chuck it.

[jantagg]

I found a product call LIQUIGUARD that sprays on leaving a clear coat that, when dry, is invisible to the eye. I have sprayed two coats on an open receiver and after letting it dry, dunked the receiver into a glass of water for over an hour with no ill effect. Just make sure that you cover the connecter points.

A can is rather expensive but, there is enough for the whole club to waterproof all their receivers (have not tried it on an ESC).

LIQUIGUARD TECHNOLOGIES, INC,

[BHChieftain]

It has Conformal coating on it from the factory should be good for a long time.

Maybe a stupid question-- but take the Hydra 120 or 240 example-- it has a water cooling system build into it. Wouldn't it be a fairly simple matter to build a small plexiglass enclosure for the ESC and seal the protruding wires/cooling lines with silicone? When it breaks, crack open the case and send it in for repairs?

-Chief

[Jeff Wohlt]

When Doug R was still with us he ordered small little plastic boxes...I still have 5 of them. We got them for the rec and they snapped shut and then you run the wires out and seal the holes. Worked well.

Sure....why not have a small box for the ESC....make sense to me.