Question:Speedmaster Mono Hardware System

[ozoneone]

One part of the included instructions is confusing to me. It states:

"SEALING GAP.
REMOVE DRIVE UNIT FROM TRANSOM.
INSERT 1/4" TUBE IN BRACKET HOLE.
SEAL GAP WITH CLEAR RTV SILICONE.
REMOVE TUBE, REINSTALL UNIT."

I'm only confused because this is a perfectly fitting joint as far as I can tell. Any silicone would just seem to be hair thin and protrude behind the mount, preventing the hardware from mounting flush on the transom.

Is this necessary? Thanks!

[m4a1usr]

Basicly what they are stating is to form a thin gasket to tighten the stringer up against the transom. Very simple. The question is if there is a slight gap that water can seep into the hull due to that slight gap.

The screw holes and the flex shaft can allow water intrusion. You should be the one making the determination on how to seal those locations effectively.

You want to know my techniques about setup and sealing a stinger I can elaborate but suffice it to say its pretty much the obvious.

John

[ozoneone]

Thank you for your reply. But I was thinking the epoxy between the brass stuffing box and the fiberglass hull was the sealing point. Forgive me if I am wrong. Perhaps it's in case one decides to elongate the hole for the stuffing box for vertical travel? If that's the case, how would one seal the stuffing box to the hull? Silicone? I don't see how one could get that much travel with a silicone seal between the hull and stuffing box. Please let me know. Thanks.

[m4a1usr]

Thank you for your reply. But I was thinking the epoxy between the brass stuffing box and the fiberglass hull was the sealing point. Forgive me if I am wrong. Perhaps it's in case one decides to elongate the hole for the stuffing box for vertical travel? If that's the case, how would one seal the stuffing box to the hull? Silicone? I don't see how one could get that much travel with a silicone seal between the hull and stuffing box. Please let me know. Thanks.

You are correct in your assumption. It is for those who choose to allow for vertical adjustment. But you still need to seal the hull penetrations even if you drill nice an precise round holes and never move the stinger, other then in angle adjustment.


Theres 2 thoughts mounting stingers. Allow for adjustment and or choose a location and set it in place. My builds follow the latter in monos. I know how far down I want to mount it. And I use some very simple reasons for my choice.

1) I want my flex tubing glued down as low as it can go. Thats gets about as much hull out of the water as possible on plane being my thought.

2) Since the stinger is in a fixed location I can do my own personal mods with my build technique. I like my flex tubing cut off flush with the exterior of the transom face. Then sometimes I cut a slight recess in the end of the stinger thats going to mount against the transom. You probably figured out thats for an o-ring. Its not necessary for most stingers because there is usually a gap or clearence. But on certain makes it may be needed.

Some folks do not like teflon liners. I do. The reason is again simple. It provides the water proof (more like water resistant) barrier going into the hull. And I like the teflon tube to seat into the stinger. Once I have everything mounted and like my workmanship I then seal it with silicone/RTV. The inside of the hull as well as the exterior. The normal slight gap between the stinger bracket and the stinger too. It will still allow for a possible angle adjustment if you set your stinger for a neutral setting.

Whats a neutral stinger setting? For me its the natural ride angle with the hull placed on a flat surface. Usually can be considered the last third of the bottom of the hull. Thats just my opinion. But depending on bottom design you may only want to consider just the last few inches. There really is no one rule to follow other then get as much hull out of the water once on plane to be stable and get the hull performing well.


John

[ozoneone]

Thanks for the awesome answers. One other question though. I just drilled my Delta Force (26) for the stinger mount and noticed the transom seems to just have some kind of perforated phenolic resin board embedded in the fiberglass. It's quite thin. I held it up and can actually see light through it. I presume I'll need to make a template and epoxy some plywood to reinforce the transom. I just thought they might come this way from the manufacturer now. So I was thinking some 3/16" or 1/8" ply would do. What do you think? (Forgive the silly questions, it's been over 20 years since I built a F/G boat, all nitro.)

[m4a1usr]

A lot of hulls dont come with enough transom reinforcement IMO. It would make for a better build if you cut out a piece of 1/4" plywood and glued it in place. You can get by with 3/16" but I wouldnt recommend any thinner. I like to use blind nuts, T nuts, what ever people call them. Allows me to tighten things up from the exterior and not have to force my big mitts in where there dont fit well.

I would recommend cutting out a paper template of the inside of the transom to use as your guide. Cut and drill all of your holes prior to water proofing. Some guys like to glass the piece in. I just glue mine in. Shoe Goo thinned with toluene makes an excellent wood sealer. It stays pliable and soaks well into the wood. Use the same Shoe Goo,but not the thinned stuff, to glue in the wood piece. Then attach the hardware to bring it up against the transom. I also like to glue down my flex tube with it. At least where it exits the hull.

John

[ozoneone]

Thank you so much. I'm really happy the LHS (two of them!) were out of 1/8" ply. I have a bunch of ply in the basement, a bit thicker, but thinner than 1/4". This is a tiny boat, it should be fine. I actually bought SS 6-32 locknuts and washers the other day, just because I suspected the transom might be to thin to use blind nuts. Now it won't be. But I'll have to decide for myself which I'll use. Thanks again.