1/8 scale Bud T-5 build need some in fo

[old guy]

Hi I'm going to build a RC Marine Designs T-5 Bud. I'm looking for any help or info I get before I get started. I need some links with pics to a build thread. Any pics you have of your builds and set ups. I would like pics of any 1/8 scale just to get some Ideas on how I'm going to do this lay out and placement of all the parts. any help would be nice
Thanks for the help

Pics can be posted or e-maild to me at [email protected]

[wolf IV]

I TOO WILL BE BUILDING ONE SOON. THIS WILL HELP ME AS WELL. I WAS JUST GOING TO SET MINE UP THE SAME WAY THE 1/12'S ARE SET UP. CG STRUT ECC.... SAME THANG JUST LARGER!

[AlanN]

Gotta getthe weight pretty far forward. Howard ran one that Kelly Brooks originally built. Howard did some mods as well. When setup properly it can be a good hull. It is quite a labor of love though to start with this kit since it has alot of surface. Maybe Howard can chime in and maybe have some shots.

[wolf IV]

I imagine the cog will have to right on the end of the sponsons. AND GET THAT REAR END OUT OF THE WATER..

[old guy]

how about Ub Hauled chiming in here you have a 1/8 and crab stick from the other side of the world, how about you and your gang? I know there are 1/8 poeple out there some were
Ols Guy

[photohoward1]

I loved my T5 Elam. Ran a Plett in it on 7400mah. Heavy boat that liked to slide through the turns.

The one thing is look at your angle on the sponsons. Put it on a flat table. The angles are all wrong. The inner sponson is flat. (That's OK I guess. The outer sponson angles down or anhedral. I would rather see it have 1 degree of dihedral. The way it was set up the Outer sponson liked to float. Not my style because it makes for a mishandling ride.

The boat is a beautiful boat but all 1/8ths need bottom work.

Good luck with the build and post some photos.

[Blueprint]

I converted a couple of old nitro 1/8ths to FE with no changes to the hull at all except I made an access hole through the sponson tops to place the lipos to keep the GOC up. I still had to fine tune the hull though by angling of the propeller down to push the back of the hull up at speed. At 70-80mph it wanted to fly. Check out my flips here and you will see that the COG is forward as the boats wanted to nose dive once they reached the apex of the flip and the forward momentum slowed down. http://www.youtube.com/user/jonsowden

Also check Randy’s build with his Pro-boat on this forum

[RandyatBBY]

I converted a couple of old nitro 1/8ths to FE with no changes to the hull at all except I made an access hole through the sponson tops to place the lipos to keep the GOC up. I still had to fine tune the hull though by angling of the propeller down to push the back of the hull up at speed. At 70-80mph it wanted to fly. Check out my flips here and you will see that the COG is forward as the boats wanted to nose dive once they reached the apex of the flip and the forward momentum slowed down. http://www.youtube.com/user/jonsowden

Also check Randy’s build with his Pro-boat on this forum

I have been thinking about putting a pack in each sponson it is a great idea. I am going to take the dams off the side of the tunnel so it does not pack as much air. With a 455 prop and the way it is set up now it is OK, but if I was to go to a bigger prop it will blow over the way it is set up. I love the boat on the water though.

[Blueprint]

Hi Randy, Wouldn't you think it would be better to keep the air dam? The air dams trap the air under the hull and this helps to keep the back from dropping down. Removing the air dams will have minimal effect. I have found by trial and error that by dropping the prop down or giving more angle down so the prop lifts the transom is more effective than any other mod you can do and you get better results for very little effort. You may loss a mph or two but your boat will stick to the water a lot better.
Look at the prop angle of the full size boats.

[wolf IV]

i converted a couple of old nitro 1/8ths to fe with no changes to the hull at all except i made an access hole through the sponson tops to place the lipos to keep the goc up. I still had to fine tune the hull though by angling of the propeller down to push the back of the hull up at speed. At 70-80mph it wanted to fly. Check out my flips here and you will see that the cog is forward as the boats wanted to nose dive once they reached the apex of the flip and the forward momentum slowed down. http://www.youtube.com/user/jonsowden

also check randy’s build with his pro-boat on this forum

nice alleyoop!!!!! Great recovery! Wheres your cog at on the bud hull? Also, what hardware were you running? And strut depth ? I will be building one of these real soon as well.

[RandyatBBY]

Hi Randy, Wouldn't you think it would be better to keep the air dam? The air dams trap the air under the hull and this helps to keep the back from dropping down. Removing the air dams will have minimal effect. I have found by trial and error that by dropping the prop down or giving more angle down so the prop lifts the transom is more effective than any other mod you can do and you get better results for very little effort. You may loss a mph or two but your boat will stick to the water a lot better.
Look at the prop angle of the full size boats.

With the power I run I do not want aerodynamic lift. I want the prop to lift the back and the sponosns to lift the front. That way wind is not a factor. I allso do not want to pack the air I want the bottom flat that way there is no packing the air. I will be changing the bottom of my 1973 Bud and will push the records in to 80tie and 90tie MPH. Down angle in the strut will make the boat hop with high pitch props. There is a lot of ways to run fast. This is mine. My boat sticks to the water at 56MPH but I want to go a lot faster.