I run a similar setup and don't have an objectionable vibration - but my stuffing tube runs into the strut nose. Ditch the current funky strut and get a SpeedMaster strut with a sleeve bearing. Use 1/4" OD tubing for the stuffing tube. As suggested, use a short length (3") of the next size larger tubing epoxied through the hull and replace the current tube. Run the tube through the strut, and end it no more than 1/2" behind the coupler. When gluing the short tube into the hull, chuck up a 4"-6" length of 3/16" drill rod in the coupler to obtain perfect alignment between the motor and stuffing tube. This reduces drag and noise. Use plenty of a good lube on the cable. An "S" bend is not necessary at all, I stopped using "S" bends at least 15 years ago.
If all the pieces are true and not bent, perhaps the vibration is not excessive. Running the motor on the bench is so unlike what happens in the water that it is almost worthless in diagnosing driveline problems. Set the boat in the water, hold on tight and blip the throttle as before. Still have the vibration?
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If all the pieces are true and not bent, perhaps the vibration is not excessive. Running the motor on the bench is so unlike what happens in the water that it is almost worthless in diagnosing driveline problems. Set the boat in the water, hold on tight and blip the throttle as before. Still have the vibration?
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