neu 1515 1y timing on 4s

**Boatman** · 10-04-2009, 11:24 PM

Alot of people say the "Y" motors dont respond much to timing change other than making more heat. I run mine around 8 and really havent messed with it. I run a prather 220 prop with mine for a full run and not much heat either of about 95degrees. speeds are around 50 but the boat wont take much more. I am sure the motor could handle more prop but I dont think I would see a speed increase.

**tth** · 10-04-2009, 11:28 PM

The "Y" winds do like a little timing advance. Its the "D" winds that should remain on zero timing.

**Raydee** · 10-05-2009, 06:54 AM

Yeah Boatman has it backwards, I run my 1515 1Y on 14* or 15* timing and that is where it seems to run the best (coolest and fastest). I run that motor in my Whiplash hull and with a 42mm prop it runs pretty fast but it completely comes alive with a 45mm prop. I remember scratching my head when I first got my 1Y motor and thinking it was a dud but after talking to Brian Baas he said that the Neu motors need to be loaded up to work to their potential. When I switch from a 42mm prop to a 45mm prop the boat SOUNDS like it gains 5,000rpm. Keep in mind now that with the 45mm prop everything runs hotter so you have to shorten your run times and do some mods to the prop like backcut and remove the tongue to keep the heat down. Toward the end of the season I actually took a X646 prop and cut it down to 43mm, removed the tongue and back cut it and it was wicked fast BUT very unstable on the hull. I need to do a little tweaking on the prop and play with my strut depth a little but this may be the "magic" prop for this hull.

That motor will easily push a 30" hydro in the mid 50's with the right setup....just have to hope the boat will stay on the water at those speeds

**Fluid** · 10-05-2009, 07:23 AM

Raydee is right, the real reason your hydro was not as fast as you wanted is the tiny props you were running. You were wise to start with smaller props, but a boat that size and weight really needs a bigger diameter prop to run efficiently, and a lot more pitch to increase the speed. Depending on how long you want to run, an x642 to m545 make a lot of sense for more speed and efficiently, with larger possible if you are careful. Expect to make more trim changes with the bigger props.

The "Y" winds like some timing, but you can go too far. 11-15 degrees should be fine if speed is the desired outcome.

.

**Boatman** · 10-05-2009, 08:00 AM

And yet a year ago all you could do is cry Raydee about heat heat heat because of the crappy CC firmware. Come to find out it was because you were running on high timing and didnt even know it? Whatever. normal timing is 7/8. Guy asked where we ran timing, there is no wrong.

**DISAR** · 10-05-2009, 09:05 AM

When increasing the timing on the Ys the amps go up as well? I guess they are, but how much?
So what is normal 7/8 or more? I had my 1515 1.5Y with 7 degrees on the ETTI but didn't like it much, before I had it with the MGM auto timing and was better.

**yurkanip** · 10-05-2009, 10:23 AM

Thanks for all of your replys Boaters....I really appreciate the input everyone has on this forum!
So...I am thinking my speed issues were with the small props...(they were the only ones balanced, and yes I agree it was a good idea to start with a small prop, since this was the first time the boat had ever been in the water..I had no idea how it would react with such a powerful motor) This is the first neu I have run and I like it already...now for the prop tweaking.
I am going to run an s220, which is about 43mm I believe. I am going to run it balanced, but uncut for now..and see what happens. So a m545 was mentioned....I have heard that most decked hydros (not riggers) run best on "m" series props....is this a true statement? I have never run one, so I am going to start prop shopping...as right now the biggest props I own are a detounged x640, uncut x640 and the S220. Since my hull is a little larger than the whiplash....I know it needs a bigger prop, now that I have the strut at a starting point.

Thanks again

Patrick

**properchopper** · 10-05-2009, 11:34 AM

Patrick, glad to see that you're finally getting the boat into the "test & tune" stage. Since I'm running two hydros { H&M 31" shovel & Vegas} with the same powerplants, here's my current experience. I run the Hydra 240's on "low" timing on either boat with no heat issues - motors just a little "warm", not enough to even test with temp gun. The Vegas is happy with a P220 very sharpened; upper fifties & plenty fast enough for that hull. With the H&M I started out with a X642 and roughly 60 mph. I've just tested with a M445 & holy s*%t ! A VERY seasoned racer swears that I was hitting low seventies ! [ for the "prove-it crowd" I'll gps it this week so hold the comments

]. There's more prop to go with these powerplants, may step up to a M545 or maybe bigger, just for grins.. With increases in speed, new handling issues need to be addressed as you know. I'm making a new turn fin for the H&M today to hold better in turns although with Brian's sponson mods , whid he did for SAWs, I'm not sure it'll turn as good as the Vegas which has the stock sponsons. Keep us posted, Bro

**yurkanip** · 10-05-2009, 11:46 AM

Propperchopper (tony) Thanks a lot...I appreciate your input. I will try a "M" series and see what happens. Yeah the boat has only been in the water once, so definately AT the test and tune tune tune stage. question though....On my riggers whenever I put on a bigger prop...I had to raise the strut dramatically depending on what prop I used other wise they hop violently...big prop raise strut, small prop lower strut. Not sure if this applies to a decked hydro. thoughts?

I do like this hull...and after some tuning, this winter..it will need a new paint job. The paint I just finished...2 weeks ago...peeled completely after the first tape removal, first run! I was pretty dissapointed...but seems I did not let my first color coat of lacqueor dry...BUt once I get it tuned and everything marked....I will remove hardware and repaint..for next season. I like a good looking boat, but it has to run great FIRST.

**properchopper** · 10-05-2009, 12:24 PM

Patrick, when it comes to tuning hydros, I'm just learning. I rely heavily on Jan
[ UbHauled's] advice, he'll likely chime in here. What I surmise that strut height is intimatly related to prop lift, so each prop, with it's unique lifting characteristics may need it's own strut height adjustment. Lots of trial and error, but that's where the fun is-[I think !].
Sorry to hear about the paint peeling. I use Krylon Fusion & never had any peeling problems. Their Black is nice and glossy & they also have a decent white color as well.

**Tony** · 10-05-2009, 03:46 PM

Originally posted by yurkanip

Propperchopper (tony) Thanks a lot...I appreciate your input. I will try a "M" series and see what happens. Yeah the boat has only been in the water once, so definately AT the test and tune tune tune stage. question though....On my riggers whenever I put on a bigger prop...I had to raise the strut dramatically depending on what prop I used other wise they hop violently...big prop raise strut, small prop lower strut. Not sure if this applies to a decked hydro. thoughts?

I do like this hull...and after some tuning, this winter..it will need a new paint job. The paint I just finished...2 weeks ago...peeled completely after the first tape removal, first run! I was pretty dissapointed...but seems I did not let my first color coat of lacqueor dry...BUt once I get it tuned and everything marked....I will remove hardware and repaint..for next season. I like a good looking boat, but it has to run great FIRST.

I'm in the process of tuning up my H&M Maritimo as well. My first 580 motor, and 180esc in it weren't so lucky. "magic smokes".

As for paints, i used Krylon (not the glossy). I sanded the old paint off my 32" cat, clean the dusts, and painted a layer of primer, let dry, then sand it lightly to get smooth surface. Next, paint a coat of color choice, let dry for several hours, sand again with fine grit sand paper. Then, paint second coat. Let it dry for atleast 24 hours. Sand again a little bit to smooth rough area. Now, paint a coat of clear coat over the boat, let dry , sand it with fine grit sand paper. Repaint with clear coat. I did this three times. Finally got the mirror Fibre glass look i wanted. Let the boat dry for serveral days before you use tape on the paint. BTW, use crystal clear coat. Don't use the glaze. Hope this helps.

neu 1515 1y timing on 4s

neu 1515 1y timing on 4s

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