correct way to solder 5.5 bulletts?

[6S HYDRO]

what is the right way to solder up your bullets?

[tiqueman]

I did some today the same way I do deans. Tinned the wire, tinned the bullet, then heated the bullet, touched the wire to it, it melted the solder on the wire and slid right into the bullet. Super solid. Dont know if its the right way, but it worked quite well. I used to do Car motors like that as well and never had an issue.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I did some today the same way I do deans. Tinned the wire, tinned the bullet, then heated the bullet, touched the wire to it, it melted the solder on the wire and slid right into the bullet. Super solid. Dont know if its the right way, but it worked quite well. I used to do Car motors like that as well and never had an issue.

Thats the way I do it also. Its important to tin the wire well. To tin this heavy gauge wire on the larger esc's, you need a high power iron. I've seen way to many esc connectors that where poorly connected, which causes problems.

[6S HYDRO]

thats what i was wondering, i cant seem to get the 10 ga hot enough to wick up the solder real nice

[AlanN]

Use a soldering wand. A gun will not retain the heat enough. A 40 watt iron and up and a good electrical grade solder is needed. But the procedure stated above is correct. Also, I use clothpins to hold the pins since those suckers get really hot.

[6S HYDRO]

i am using a wand

[NitroVal]

I usually just tin the wire, then slip the bullet connector over the wire, leaving a little bit of exposed wire between the sheath and the bullet. Then I use a gas torch, heat the bullet until the solder melts, then add some more solder to the opened bit of wire..

[tiqueman]

I started out using a inexpensive weller. It did the job, but not without hassle. I then got a nicer Weller, 7400 I think is the model, and all problems are solved. Soldering Deans used to take a bit and a lot of times, I would have to hold the old iron on it for so long to get the wire to adhere properly, it would melt the plastic on the connector. With the newer iron, I can tack a wire in less then 3 seconds. Very easy. I would try maybe changing to a different iron (wand) or a lower temp electrical solder maybe? I dunno, just my $.02

[FloatDaBoat]

Soldering Tips

1. Always tin wires beforehand.
2. If the solder being used isn’t rosin core, apply a SMALL amount of either the liquid or paste type flux to the items being soldered (sometimes cored solder needs some additional flux, usually the small diameter stuff).
2. Establish a good mechanical connection. On large connectors, it might be necessary to double over the end of the wire. If the tinned wire’s then too large, use a jeweler’s file to adjust it to fit snugly.
3. A 40 watt iron will supply plenty of heat, IF the tip used is broad enough. A pointed tip suitable for small jobs won’t Cut-the-Mustard. Let it come-up to operating temperature at least 5-7 minutes before attempting any heavy duty soldering.
4. Tin the iron, then wipe-off the tip with a damp paper towel to remove excess solder. Apply the iron to the connector, the solder to the wire, and the solder will flow towards the heat source.
5. Even a 40 watt iron can become TOO HOT, in which case the solder will obey gravity & migrate to the bottom of the joint. A sharp hobby knife will easily trim the excess away.
6. I prefer Silver Solder, but standard lead & lead free solder can be used (lead free requires more heat to melt & flow properly).
7. Only strip enough insulation off the wire in order apply the solder to the wire. This is essential for battery connectors, as any exposed wire has the potential for a short [Smoke Test!!!] - Photo 1.
8. I like to use silicone tubing to insulate bullet connectors. It provides a visual method of ensuring they’re fully seated. A small dab of silicone grease will make connects/disconnects easier - Photo 2.
9. I also like to use brass tubing to join wires. It only requires a piece 1/8” to 3/16” in length (dependant on wire gauge) to make a solid mechanical connection. The heat shrink I like is a clear color tinted weatherproof/adhesive type (this stuff is called Dorman Conduct-Tite & comes in different colors according to wire size - - available at Pep Boys). Use a heat gun for shrink tube application, as it always looks better than the Ole FlickYourBic method - Photo 3.
10. Testament to good solid mechanical connections. This Tekin brushed ESC suffered a Catastrophic Meltdown (the NiMH battery pack actually exploded), but the 12 gauge wire connections held - Photo4. Lots O Luck !!!

The Ubiquitous THEY - - They’re Everywhere . . . .

[Jeff Wohlt]

Make sure your wire is making contact with the bottom and/or sides of the connector. You really do not want the solder carrying the load.