0.062 wire drive Qs

[Rex R]

trying to get a feel for what it takes. stuffing tube 1/8"? max motor size? thanks
rex

[Simon.O.]

Rex, I have more than a few 062 wre in the fleet.

1/8" is a good size stuffing tube although I have 2 that have a 3/32 sleeve at one end to reduce the water intake while the hull is at rest in the water or worse still being towed in stern first.

As far as max motor size goes I have manage to run a 30" mono with a 7XL to a M440 via a 062 wire.
I also have a rigger that has cleared 65mph with a 6XL spinning a 640 via a 062 wire at over 31krpm.

If your anticipated loads are less than this then 062 is good to go.

I do all my own wire/shaft work so I can not reccomend anyones gear other than what I have read here. Jeff does good wire drive work.

Give me a shout if you want to know more.

[Rex R]

you seem to have answered all of my current questions, thanks. doubt that I'll have any motors larger than that in the immediate future :-).
rex

[Simon.O.]

Rex. To put it in perspective I have 4 other wire drive hulls that all run 540-S size motors.

These are Canard, hydro, Cat, and small rigger. All run between 400-600W calculated. I do not have a data logger so I use FECalc to geustimate my loads.

The 062 wire is plenty good enough for those even when I feed a 540-8S with 3S lipo for a 40krpm shaft speed and up to 1000W !

As far as I can see I will never need more than 062 wire.
078 wire can go 140mph in a rigger.

[Fluid]

I've twisted 0.062" wire into a spiral in an 18-cell cat with a Neu 1515 and v937/3 props. I consider it fine for up to 4S Spec power with props up to 45mm. I've broken more than one 0.078" wire in a 4S hydro with 8XL and 45mm prop. Wire quality is a player here, and getting small quantities of "good" wire is problematic in the US.

As for going 140 mph with 0.078" - who did that? Joerg used a 0.098" metric equivalent wire in his 140 mph rigger and he was headed for larger diameters. A 0.098" wire is 60% stronger than 0.078" wire, and 0.078" is 45% stronger than 0.062" wire.



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[Jeff Wohlt]

Jay probably means 093. Most all the Germans and everywhere else but us use a metric system. I was told Joerg ran 2mm or very close to 078 but I could be wrong. 3mm would be darn near an 1/8" shaft and would only work with no bends. 093 is basically 3/32. Can be slightly bent if long. I find most of these go to 1/8 scale and the 1/7 scale some are building. Works great since the wire remains over 2 or more long.

There is a difference in wire as Jay stated. What I used to get at some hardware store looks nothing like I get from my source and it is as close from the factory as it can get. It is very raw yet and I have to do some cleaning on it. Love it because I can depend on it being straight...he hands selects it for me as he know s why I need it that way.

62 is very strong but certainly can be twisted...I can only imagine 18 cells on 62 but I would never even try that combo.

1/8 KS Brass for stuffing tube for 62 and then just telescope you nose with KS pieces and then I shrink it anyway. Make your own nose with just pieces of KS stepped....no difference and shrink it anyway.

When people like them and use them I find they never go back to cable. Some do not have good luck and think the system is less. I still use both but it depends on my set up.

Monos and hydros...wire all the way. Some cats get cable only.

78 wire uses 5/32 KS stuffing tube.

I also carry Octura collet couplers for both sizes...62 and 78. Pretty sure I can also make 93 ones as well.

[Rex R]

New question. lets say I wanted to use a wire in a predator rigger(22")...I know that longer is better but, how would you re-arrange motor/battery placement( was thinking 2s lipo + either a 540s 8t or 7t motor)?

[Jeff Wohlt]

Short answer....Just depends on your build(yes I hate that answer as well) Sponson design, AOA, how you plan to run it. I do not have one but I have an old Climax rigger I need to finish. CG will be midway if you want the front lighter and then more thrust angle to carry the rear end. In that case I may consider running a motor very forward and the pack right behind it to find a good cg for the hull, prop, combo, etc. a 2S pack is pretty light.

Riggers are tricky to balance....so many varibles to get them perfect.

My Campbell Shovel only has a 6-7" 062 wire with a pretty good bend. Never a problem with it being that short.

Riggers generally have a slight neg strut angle so this helps as well.

Climax Riggers had some great running smaller hulls like that and he may still have some pics or I might and will look.

[Rex R]

hmmm, well to judge from the plans the wire would be approx 7.75" long(w/ the motor in the stock location). given that bl motors tend to be heavier(and lipos lighter) shifting the motor forward a tad would seem to be in order(good thing I haven't gotten around to cutting wood yet ).

[Jeff Wohlt]

Lipos have certainly changed the way we build. On one of my big cats that was built for round cells I have to bring the lipos all the way back just to get the CG right. big difference in weight. Something to remember for all of us old boaters.

[Fluid]

Jay probably means 093.....

No, I meant exactly what I wrote - 0.098" is the equivalent of the 2.5mm wire Joerg used on his 140 mph boat - I was there. Not that there is too much difference between the 0.93" we can get and the 0.98" that Joerg used - the latter is 13% stronger than the former.

Regardless of what the plans may show for component placement in a hull, I put all the parts into the boat and move them around until I get the CG where it needs to be, then permanently install them. If I can't get the CG right due to design restrictions then I'll add lead to the nose of the hull until I can. A few ounces is meaningless to performance from the additional weight, but it can make all the difference in how the boat performs. In many cases you really can go much faster by adding lead to the boat.



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[Jeff Wohlt]

I see. I did not know they made metric wire in 2.5 but I guess I wouldn't since we never use the metric stuff here. I love metric and wish would would change everything to metric myself. Simple sizes.

I also do the same, motor and mount and servo, esc, etc. The ESCs these days weigh plenty so they are certainly a part of the mix now. I have also taped the strut and rudder on just to get a feel for it.

[Simon.O.]

Jay, I was sure I read that it was 078 wire that Joerg used. It is clear that I recalled it wrong and I will happily stand corrected.

As far as fitting a wire to a rigger or any hull it is preferable to have a relaxed bend. I have a couple of hulls with a more severe bend but that is my choice based on component placement.

For some of my later hulls the whole setup is based on where the motor is to get the best line to the prop.
All other bits are spread about to get the Cg that I want and an allowance for movement of the Cg.

Lead is my friend. A well known FE boater once told me to use lead and not to worry about the weight, in fact I recall he told me that weight is better in some hulls.

Rex For your rigger, build the tub and sponsons etc and then once you have all the other bits ready you can fart about with component placement and if you are unsure then give us a shout. I am sure there will be plenty of help forthcoming.

[Rex R]

yet another 'new to wire drive' question . I hear that wires do not shorten near as much under load as do flex shafts...so where do you take the thrust load? thanks
rex

[Jeff Wohlt]

That is true. I use the thrust bearing at the motor.

Many take it at the strut but I like it on the motor and works well on hydros. Moves your thrust up to the sponsons and balances better.