What's the best transmitter?

[Fluid]

You'll make the right decision.


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[Erroneous]

Well that was quick, just bought the DX4S. Figure I can just keep the old airtronics for the crawler, all my EPAs and dig settings are golden. Might wind up running the dx on it as it comes with the extra receiver.. Thanks again guys.

[kfxguy]

Why do you have a bag of defective mr series receivers? What happened to them?
You should talk to Darin. Apparently he hasn't had any issues in ten years and his even work if they get wet.

And I say that with a smile, Darin... Let's move on

But to be fair... I still feel MOST is accurate when we start discussing water and an RX. No matter what brand the RX is. That's why they sell these boxes, some people put them in balloons, while other find other ways of waterproofing the best they can.

I don't have an answer. They just stopped working. The light would not come on anymore. I remember a couple times they would act glitchy and then stop working. No water in them as I would take them apart and check. The sr210 is my go to now. Haven't had any issues with those. I didn't like the dual antenna on the MR series anyway.

[skiking1739]

Very Interesting. So Darin, do you use the AVC feature, and if so to what extent.


Thanks, JLH

[Erroneous]

To add, I don't plan on using the AVC on the boat. Maybe the axial or the old nitro stampede.

[longballlumber]

While I haven’t had much time on my newest Futaba equipment, I think there is some telemetry features that are going provide more insight on what is happening WHILE the boat is running. With regards to boats, I speak specifically on motor temperature.

I recently replace some of my FASST equipment with the newer T-FHSS. I am currently using the 4GRS (stick style) http://www.futabarc.com/systems/futk...grs/index.html. Although there are several options for wheel style; I believe the 4PLS is the wheel equivalents to the radio I’ve been testing. http://www.futabarc.com/systems/futk...pls/index.html.

I recently set up on of my boats using the temperature sensor on my P-Limited Sport Hydro. With only making one run I learned a lot about what happens to motor temps when the boat is moving vs. being stationary. There have been some theories that motor temps start to lower after a run and you’re walking back to your pit. I don’t necessarily believe that any longer. In this one particular test session the temp was reading 90’ish degress WHILE RUNNING after 4-5 laps. I then brought the boat in and proceeded to walk back to my pit, roughly 30-50 yards away. During that time I watched the temp read out on the transmitter. The temp jumped 15-20 degrees in only a few minutes.

Now, I understand this isn’t the most scientific testing procedure; there is a lot to be gained with these new found features.

[dethow]

I recently set up on of my boats using the temperature sensor on my P-Limited Sport Hydro. With only making one run I learned a lot about what happens to motor temps when the boat is moving vs. being stationary. There have been some theories that motor temps start to lower after a run and you’re walking back to your pit. I don’t necessarily believe that any longer. In this one particular test session the temp was reading 90’ish degress WHILE RUNNING after 4-5 laps. I then brought the boat in and proceeded to walk back to my pit, roughly 30-50 yards away. During that time I watched the temp read out on the transmitter. The temp jumped 15-20 degrees in only a few minutes.

Mike,
I 100% concur with your findings. I have actually let the boat set in the water for about 15-30 seconds, let the temp climb about 10-15 degrees, then run at about half throttle for about half lap and watch the temp drop back down. It's kind of a cool thing to see the water cooling work like that.

I'm not as advanced in setups as many on here (obviously including you Mike), which is why I immediately found benefit to have the telemetry with real time temp reads on the motor and esc. When I was originally starting out, I was able to put a new prop on, run a couple laps, and checks temps to see if I was alright.

The only real complaint I have regarding my FlySky FS-iT4 is that the telemetry should have an alarm setting. IOW... I'd like it to sound an alarm if my temps go above a set number. I can't watch my remote during a race.

Does your Fatuba have an alarm you can set?

[longballlumber]

Does your Fatuba have an alarm you can set?

Not that I am aware of.

[T.S.Davis]

The tricky part would be deciding at what temperature to get nervous.

[longballlumber]

With regards to the other comments about Radio Brands vs. Reliability:

No one ever discussed the proper method of mounting, securing, protecting, and isolating a RX in whatever application it may be in. Like Terry stated earlier; many of us (including me) take for granted how well this components hold up to some very rough, violent, wet, and temperature conditions. I think all of us boaters could benefit from a little more attention to isolating and properly mounting (protecting) an RX. I think this plays a big part in a radio being reliable vs. un-reliable.

The terminology “Waterproof”, “Water resistant”, and “Splash proof” all mean different things. Water in general terms water can find its way into the smallest of places. I refuse to accept these little do-dads are really “waterproof”. One thing you can’t deny, you get water on/in your RX it’s another level of risk you need to accept. I do my best to eliminate all water intrusions during NORMAL circumstances regardless of what I am being told by manufactures.

Just my 2 pennies...

Later,
Ball

[longballlumber]

The tricky part would be deciding at what temperature to get nervous.

Agreed... It's a data point. As more data is collected, it will help us understand what is bad and what is OK. There are still too many variables in play that won't allow us to draw a definitive conclusion that X temp is the killer.

The telemetry temp would be much more meaningful if we could put the sensor in a more strategic place. Motors with a water cooling jacket that covers 90%-95% of the can make placement difficult. None the less it's progress and better information that we had in the past.

Later,
Ball

[dethow]

The tricky part would be deciding at what temperature to get nervous.

I think each boat and time of year (pond temp) will require differences. I figure, I would run a boat through 6 laps, check running temp and set the alarm for 5 to 10 degrees above that.

During a race... if an alarm went off, I'd pull back to half throttle, see if temp drops any.
If it does, continue to run... cautiously.
If it doesn't, shut it down. Probably a plugged water line or something.

And I believe in what Mike says... that "There are still too many variables in play that won't allow us to draw a definitive conclusion that X temp is the killer."
But... It would be nice to have something of an alarm say "Hey, beware", "Temps getting up there"

[longballlumber]

Back to the OP's original question.

Buy the best radio that your racing budget can afford. There are several brands out there that will work just fine.

[longballlumber]

I think each boat and time of year (pond temp) will require differences.

I am not sure I understand this statement. The motors don't care what boat/application they are in. Hot is Hot... Although we don't exactly know what the threshold is for motors; the threshold isn't what is changing.

During a race... if an alarm went off, I'd pull back to half throttle, see if temp drops any.
If it does, continue to run... cautiously.
If it doesn't, shut it down. Probably a plugged water line or something.

What position are you running and on what lap does your alarm go off? It's easy to type this, but if your in the lead with one lap left to go; are you really going to slow down?

[dethow]

I am not sure I understand this statement. The motors don't care what boat/application they are in. Hot is Hot... Although we don't exactly know what the threshold is for motors; the threshold isn't what is changing.

Don't know how many boats you have yours hooked up in, but you will find each boat runs different temps. My mono runs about 110 to 115 degrees, while my cat runs about 5 degrees hotter. Just saying I'd set the alarm a little above normal for that boat/setup so I get an early warning that something is happening. I agree there is a threshold a motor can take and a boat/setup will not change that threshold. But I want to know something is wrong before I hit the threshold.

What position are you running and on what lap does your alarm go off? It's easy to type this, but if your in the lead with one lap left to go; are you really going to slow down?

Yes... I would... without question.
Not frying a motor, esc or even my entire boat is more important then winning a single race. Not unless the purse is more $$$ then my boat is worth. This isn't Nascar or the Indy. It's toy boats