TOOLS to help with rewinding 36mm motors

[donhuff]

I made up a set of tools like what I use, that makes the rewinding process go a little easier.

A holder for the case, that allows the stator to be pushed out, and a ram. It's cut to fit inside of a 1 ton arbor press (harbor freight) but you could set it atop some vice jaws or a couple of 2x4s. But the press works so easy and you'll use it for all kinds of other things.

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Then we have some parts that go into the rotor hole. These are made with a 1mm wide lip that sits atop the ends of the stator, and that keeps the strands of little wire from getting over into and blocking the rotor hole, where the rotor might later rub them and short the windings out, and make SMOKE! They also make the inner form for the pressing tools that you'll use later.

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[donhuff]

Next there's the outer rings that make up the pressing form/mold. These have that same lip on them but this time it's to keep the wire strands to the inside, so they will be smaller than the OD of the stator. That way the wound stator will go back into the case easier without the strands snagging on the case. Sitting atop the big rings are the small rings that actually do the pressing. A smooth one for the front end, and the rear one has 3 slots for your lead wires to pass through.

Put them all together and set it in the arbor press, or on your work bench, and press down on the top, and flatten the ends of your newly rewound stator. Now it will be short enough to fit back into the case!

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I'll post them in the for sale section later. I wanted to put them here first so I would't have to explain what they were for later. And I suspect that the only interested people will be on this thread anyway.

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[T.S.Davis]

haha Yep.

[ray schrauwen]

You're reading my mind Don. I've been tinkering in the shop digging through my stock of Aluminum and noticing I have a lot of work to make these pieces.

With how small my Taig lathe is, might be too much work, might be...

I certain can't turn threads though. Darn...

We'll see what you have and I'll have to think hard about being the Canadian motor re-winder. If there isn't someone already doing it very quietly.. Like in Quebec, they seem to beat me at these games if I'm too slow at it.

[ray schrauwen]

.............DBLPst

[donhuff]

You could use the ram that pushes the stator out on a 40mm motor. But it wouldn't be long enough to get it all the way out.

All the rest of the tools are pretty specific to the 36mm size. and like the two pieces that go in the rotor hole, even they won't work right with a 1500 dynm, because it's rotor is bigger in diameter than all the others.

You wouldn't have to cut any threads. In the sets that I use, I took a long bolt and cut a screwdriver slot in the head with a hack saw. I could get a long Phillips head screw at the hardware store, but I always forget about it.

[Jansvast]

Seems like these could be 3D printed as well

[donhuff]

they could be. nothing has to be very close tolerance, or very strong.

[ray schrauwen]

Cool.

[T.S.Davis]

One of those rings I use to help push the can off the stator. Think that should be aluminum but the rest could be made of anything.

[donhuff]

Terry, Do you use a press of some type when pressing the can off? If so I can make you a special "ring" for that so that it locates (centers) it's self in the press, and you don't have to worry about the stator hitting the press base.

[donhuff]

OOPS! sorry, looking back at the pictures of the tools, I see that you already have one like that.

[T.S.Davis]

To get the stator out I made a tool with basically four teeth that fit through the opening on the front of the motor. Clamp that in the vice. Drop the motor on it. Then I heat the can up with the torch. The ring that fits the can makes it super easy to push the warm can off. Takes less than a minute.