Will a burnt motor take down an ESC?

[tlandauer]

This is a brand new Aqua Craft 1800kv motor I just put in for today's run.
First 2 min. I brought it in, motor 130*, ESC 87*, but smelled a grease burning smell, I thought may be it is new bearing oil that I put.
Second run only lasted 15 seconds. Boat stopped and I rolled out the retrieval boat.

The motor wires are shorted, I even thought of doing a blue printing like Properchopper but couldn't find any extra heat shrink tube.
Question, I bench tested with another motor and ESC works, but the spark when you connect the pack doesn't seem as present, do I need to replace any cap? Any potential damage to the ESC?
I am enjoying the smell, man,

DSCN5074_5434.jpg DSCN5072_5432.jpg

[petej]

Yes, I've had a bad motor take out the esc.
Melted motor lead insulation could be a bad motor, but also could indicate over-loading the motor, i.e., flex-shaft binding, lubrication issue, prop too big, etc.

[srislash]

I recall threads on those motors NEEDING the blueprint that you speak of that Tony does. Some of the TPs as well.

I have noticed the spark to change on ESC's in the past but it usually come back next time out. The caps can hold voltage for awhile. If they have charge you won't notice the spark from them 'sucking' (for lack of a better word) juice.

[tlandauer]

Yeah, lesson learned! I wanted to do it last night but as I said, couldn't find the material, excuses and excuses!!!
But as petej said, could I be over loading? it is a M445 on a MG, I ran the Proboat 1800 kv motor with the same prop the day before and it didn't break a sweat.
I used to run a Leopard 4082/2200 in that boat but I am toting the idea to practice for spec race and want to get a feel for the so-called spec motor.
Guess I will find out how the ESC held out, no way of telling other than taking a chance??

[srislash]

Ya', I'm pretty sure the PB motor is a bit stronger than the AQ. All you can do is try the ESC.

BTW, I hate those days.

[nata2run]

Chances are, if there is a direct "short" in the motor and you pull the trigger, you'll peek such high amp draws that the ESC won't have a chance. It might blow every FET with no sign of damage. Maybe hook it up with the least cell count it can take and use a different motor.

[nata2run]

I miss read LOL....ESC still works! can be one-two caps went, and for that reason you have a less spark. you can always de-solder the caps and try to charge them and see if they hold charge and discharge with a 24v bulp or something. Or simply replace if you feel they had too much?

[Alexgar]

Yes had a ul1 motor kill a high dollar MGM compro and a ul1 esc. Don't risk it

[tlandauer]

@ petej: no binding, everything runs properly. Thanks!
@srislash: Yes, the PB motor is very good and I got it from Darin who actually modified the wires so they come out of the endbell individually , not sure it is race legal though, that's why I tried the AC motor.
I had the AC's 1800 and 2030 motor on several other boats that I run the crap out of them and no hint of bad smell. I remember awhile back someone said AC's suppliers changed their copper wire lacquer and since then it's been known to do this.
@ nata2run:, thank you very much, I will pay extra attention and also check the caps!
@Alexgar, your words of caution is much appreciated!
The funny thing is that the burnt smell is quite strong and just so happens that my neighbour is burning something in their backyard and I thought I was going crazy: images of lipo fires immediately popped into my brain.