Motor temp reading

[KartRacer]

Where on the motor is the best spot to read temperature after a run. Seems to be very different at different locations on the can.
Sign me confused!

[dana]

At the endbell

[kevinpratt823]

Check a few places, and go by the highest. As Dana said, it's typically at the endbell near where the wires exit the can.

[KartRacer]

Thanks Dana Kevin
Was hoping I was reading temp in the wrong spot. Temps are too high in the back of the motor. Been reading on the forum about the possibility that the radio is not running full throttle. Would that raise motor temps?

The logger does not suggest any other reason, the amp draw is in line or low and RPM are at 35000 when it unloads and right around 30000 under load. The DF Pirate will run full throttle even making the turn at each end of the run. I am lost! Leopard say stay under 160 but that is way higher than anyone suggest here and also way higher than anyone reports.

[dana]

What are the temps?

[KartRacer]

What are the temps?

Keeps climbing throughout run until hitting 155 then stays at 154/155 until I stop run. The eagle tree sensor is tie wrapped at the wire end of the motor.

[monojeff]

Yes running at partial throttle does have an effect on temps.
The thing that has the most effect is fluctuating throttle.

When I race my boats on short course temps are high from all the throttle on throttle off.
When I race full course temps are way way down almost as if its a different setup.

Another question to be asked is what motor are we talking about as an outrunner will probably be ok at 145-155 but a inrunner will not last very long at these temps ask me how I know....
I assume it is an inrunner by the way you described connection of the eagle tree at the endbell...

Setup plays a big factor if your running to wet then your causing drag and causing the motor to need to work harder.
if you able to loosen the boat up some you'd be surprised how much that will help with the high temps.
Have to play with it and see what you can do might need to only use the combo your using once in a while or for shorter runs and prop down the rest of the time.
A lot of times when we race short course I will only put my larger faster prop on for finals this way I am pushing the temps as little as possible!!

[Fluid]

Running part-throttle can overheat the ESC, but since the motor itself is not producing full power this alone will not cause a motor to run hot. Lots of on/off acceleration can build heat in the motor, but I find it odd that the motor temps stop climbing after awhile. Is the sensor in firm direct contact with the motor can near the endbell or on the jacket? I assume that the water cooling is working well?

Really, if as stated the amp draw is not an issue then the motor quality is likely the reason for the heat. The Leopard 4092/1480 is a decent sport motor, but it is not the quality of the Neu or Castle offerings. The Leopards I've used and seen run hotter than comparable Neus or Castles in the same boat/setup. Typical Chinese QA/QC means that most Leopards will run great and some not so well - a fact of life in mass-produced items. Too, the Dinogy packs you are using are capable of putting out a lot more power than the Turnigy stuff that so many folks use with these motors. With lower motor efficiency more of the available current is turned into heat rather than into power to run the boat. Over time (not long) high temperatures will reduce the magnetic force available, reducing the motor efficiency even more. Soon you will start taking out ESCs - ask me how I know.

Maximum motor temperatures are dependent on motor quality. I know that up to 175* was safe with Hacker motors, and Neu states up to near 200* is safe for their motors. But lower quality motors don't have high-temperature magnets (no matter what the press release says) and they can and will go south when exposed to heat much above 160*. Assuming your water cooling is adequate, I doubt that there is much you can do to reduce your present motor's temperatures without going down in prop size or reducing run time.



.

[KartRacer]

Eagle tree info

Does this help?
DF Pirate run 2.pdf

[KartRacer]

Water flow.
I am using two large exit ports for water flow from the two inputs . I cannot see that water is exiting these ports. was hoping that I would see the water spout from them. Is it possible that more restriction via smaller exit ports would be better?
Also using cooled motor mount with line running through the head and the jacket. wondering if running through jacket only would be a better route.
DF 091512 3.jpg

[785boats]

Dennis.
The Seaking comes with the timing preset at 15 degrees. Did you drop it down to the 3 degree setting, as 15 degrees is too high for the 'D' wind motor that you have. It can create a bit of heat if the timing is too high.

[KartRacer]

Dennis.
The Seaking comes with the timing preset at 15 degrees. Did you drop it down to the 3 degree setting, as 15 degrees is too high for the 'D' wind motor that you have. It can create a bit of heat if the timing is too high.

Yes used the programmer to set it at 3.75 only other choice is zero.

[785boats]

Cool. Well that rules out the timing issue as being a contributor.
I've got to agree with Fluid & others that have commented. The leopards I've used always ran hot. I've had a couple that gave up the ghost & took out a couple of T180 ESC's in the process.

[monojeff]

You could always try a separate water inlet for both motor and esc so each 1 is getting its own source of water and not transferring from the esc to the motor.

[KartRacer]

Monojeff
Yeh already doing that twinn feed rudder.