Seaking 180a completely blows up.

[Mxkid261]

I finally got to run a Raider over the weekend. Pretty impressive IMO. Not sure what the burst is but I ran it in a P mono without baking it. Short run though. Felt smooth enough. Tom beat the snot out of the same unit in his P sport for 7 laps. 150amps seemed to be plenty. We've never actually calculated or logged the real amp draw on that setup though so who knows.

Did they run fairly cool? I think I may try one of these in my DF 29 mono. They seem to be holding up well so far for those that have used them

[Mtwinste]

Thanks for the tips guys. This was actually a V1 unit bought years ago. Too bad I just ordered a V3 to replace it lol. I will get a swordfish after the V3 blows up hopefully doesn't catch the boat on fire ! From now on I'm blowing through my water line at start up!

[T.S.Davis]

Did they run fairly cool? I think I may try one of these in my DF 29 mono. They seem to be holding up well so far for those that have used them

Honestly, I didn't think to check the actual temperature. I don't want to lead you guys astray. It was warm out. The water was warm. The speedo was just warm like I would expect. Not all blistery like we sometimes get. It's usually when things get really hot that I reach for the temp gun.

We'll likely see it run again tomorrow. I'll try to remember to check it proper.

[Mxkid261]

Thanks for the tips guys. This was actually a V1 unit bought years ago. Too bad I just ordered a V3 to replace it lol. I will get a swordfish after the V3 blows up hopefully doesn't catch the boat on fire ! From now on I'm blowing through my water line at start up!

Cut the 2 dinky caps off the battery leads and put a decent capacitor bank on it. I put the big Etti bank in my rivercat after my most recent v3 meltdown. Ya I blow through my water line before and after a run, and always check that I have water flow while running

[Mxkid261]

Honestly, I didn't think to check the actual temperature. I don't want to lead you guys astray. It was warm out. The water was warm. The speedo was just warm like I would expect. Not all blistery like we sometimes get. It's usually when things get really hot that I reach for the temp gun.

We'll likely see it run again tomorrow. I'll try to remember to check it proper.

Cool ya its not a big deal but if you have your temp gun handy grab a few readings

[785boats]

Mtwinstie.
Over the years I've had 3 of the V2 ESCs let go on 6s. Two like yours. The other just stopped.
The limits were being pushed in big boats running wet in the turns.Totally my fault.
The common denominator were Leopard motors that also fritzed at the same time. I've always felt that it was the motors that failed first causing the meltdown of the ESCs.

Have you checked that the motor is still ok?
With mine, when you turned them by hand they felt a bit squishy instead of positive cogging of the magnets. Like the rotor was dragging on the stator. But I pulled the rotors out & that wasn't the case.
When power was applied to them, one just didn't work & the others just chattered back & forth, like it's lost a phase. But all the windings looked good.
Any way, check the motor if you haven't already.

[Fluid]

A motor with bad magnets will take out an ESC pretty quickly. All it takes is getting the motor too hot a few times - probably over 160*F will start to kill the magnets on budget motors. As they weaken the motor Kv goes up, eventually too high for the setup. Another explanation anyway.



.

[dmitry100]

I don't think HK180 does very well with 6 pole motors or partially burnt out ones... mine blew up on 6s with some very minimal partial load on them. Seems like a "sensitive" ESC. What can you expect for $80 though.

[785boats]

A motor with bad magnets will take out an ESC pretty quickly. All it takes is getting the motor too hot a few times - probably over 160*F will start to kill the magnets on budget motors. As they weaken the motor Kv goes up, eventually too high for the setup. Another explanation anyway.



.

That's true, for sure. But the second motor was a new one to replace the first one. I even went down from 1600kv to 1250kv. In the same 36" mono with the same 447/3 prop, & a new 180A ESC.
I think from memory it lasted 3 runs, Didn't get hot, then bang. Motor & ESC gone.
Put a TP power motor in it & a new ESC & she ran fine 'till I sold it.
I blame the Leopard motors.

Dmitri100.
The motors were only 4 pole not 6 pole.
The rest of the 180's I have in my other race boats on both 4s & 6s are fine on TP, SSS, Nue, or HET motors.

[Tamelesstgr]

Darn, I have a Leopard 4082 with 1450kv (used) and a T180 V2 (used) going in on 6s. I can only run up to a 43mm prop the way I have my rudder and strut set up though. Probably start out with 40mm and work up.

[Mtwinste]

I will check the motor after I get the new ECS installed. The Motor and the ESC had the exact same hours on them.

[Mtwinste]

So I wired up the new ESC and powered it on and gave some throttle and the ESC immediately heated up super hot something started smoking and the motor would barely turn. I unplugged everything asap and took out the motor to throw it in the trash lol. So it was maybe the motor the burned up the ESC.

[Mtwinste]

[Mtwinste]

Anyone have any suggestions on which motor to replace this in for my impulse 31 on 6s?

[785boats]

I hope that little excercise didn't damage your new ESC. If there was smoke as you say, I think it probably did.
These are the motors I run in a couple of 6s boats, Which are larger hulls than the impulse. A good price and a free water jacket.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p?prod=tp-4050

But I feel that ther impulse is a bit small for a 6s set up. A 4s system is plenty for that hull.