Burnt up 180A v3 hobbywing ESC?

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  • Mxkid261
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2015
    • 734

    #1

    Burnt up 180A v3 hobbywing ESC?

    Long story short my spartan ESC finally started giving me issues after a year, so a month ago I purchased a 180A v3 hobbywing from the OSE store. Then about 2 weeks ago I purchased a Rivercat hull from Travis and decided to use the ESC for that. Well I had to try it out Lol so Ive ran about 8 times with it in the spartan and possibly burnt it up today. Boat cut out after about 5 minutes, got it quick with my jetski and when I pulled the top off there was a very small amount of smoke. Capacitors look burnt or something. Motor timing was 3.75 degrees on stock castle motor. Am I out $120 or is there any warranty on these? Thanks
  • kfxguy
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Oct 2013
    • 8746

    #2
    Man that motor that comes in the Spartan seems to be a serious AMP HOG. Another thing to think about is your batteries. If your not running at least a 5000mah 50c battery.....your asking for problems.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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    • Mxkid261
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2015
      • 734

      #3
      I either run the traxxas 5000mah 25c or I have a set of SPC 7200mah 70c thats what was in it when it cut out. So this things is pretty much junk toss it in the garbage Lol? Sucks cus I wanted to use this for my rivercat you sold me! What ESC should I save my money for? Also the ESC blinks red and beeps once a few seconds apart if powered up

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      • kfxguy
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Oct 2013
        • 8746

        #4
        Originally posted by Mxkid261
        I either run the traxxas 5000mah 25c or I have a set of SPC 7200mah 70c thats what was in it when it cut out. So this things is pretty much junk toss it in the garbage Lol? Sucks cus I wanted to use this for my rivercat you sold me! What ESC should I save my money for? Also the ESC blinks red and beeps once a few seconds apart if powered up

        Don't use the low c batts in that for sure. Spc batts are very good. The seaking 180 will work fine in the Rivercat. If you want the best you can get for it, swordfish 240 pro plus 2 fits the bill there but it's about $270. I don't like the lower model swordfish. They are cheesy looking. I highly recommend eliminating the built in bec in the seaking (that's probably the issue with it, or programming) because it created more heat in the Esc. Pull the red wire out the receiver plug, tape it and then add an external bec. I've been using some really cheap ones in my lower voltage stuff that hold up really well.
        32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

        Comment

        • Mxkid261
          Senior Member
          • Jun 2015
          • 734

          #5
          What kind of BEC do you recommend? Should I toss this ESC in the garbage or should I try to get it warrantied??

          Comment

          • kfxguy
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Oct 2013
            • 8746

            #6
            I've been using these.

            32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

            Comment

            • kfxguy
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Oct 2013
              • 8746

              #7
              Originally posted by Mxkid261
              What kind of BEC do you recommend? Should I toss this ESC in the garbage or should I try to get it warrantied??
              Maybe contact hobbywing and see.
              32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

              Comment

              • ray schrauwen
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2007
                • 9471

                #8
                Is the Castle motor a Y wind or a D wind? Best I know is Castle only does Y winds I think? If the motor is a Y wind and most likely is, the timing is way too low and should have been 10 to 15 degrees. The 3.5 timing cooked you're caps, kinda voids warranty imo but, try anyway.
                The caps are toast but, you may be able to sacrifice the esc. You would have to pull off the caps from the main unit with pliers making sure any leftover metal leads are remove and or insulated with some glue. Remove the caps from the power leads and add new ones, Rubycon ZL or ZLH caps from Steve at OSE. A Castle cap bank from OSE would be simplest. If you can find just a polarized cap of some kind in the 480uf, 35vdc rasnge first, solder in and bench tested before spending money on a cap bank, maybe it can be saved.

                Stop using internal bec and dont use low c batts.
                Nortavlag Bulc

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                • ray schrauwen
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 9471

                  #9
                  Double post
                  Nortavlag Bulc

                  Comment

                  • ray schrauwen
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Apr 2007
                    • 9471

                    #10
                    Is the Castle motor a Y wind or a D wind? Best I know is Castle only does Y winds I think? If the motor is a Y wind and most likely is, the timing is way too low and should have been 10 to 15 degrees. The 3.5 timing cooked you're caps, kinda voids warranty imo but, try anyway.
                    The caps are toast but, you may be able to sacrifice the esc. You would have to pull off the caps from the main unit with pliers making sure any leftover metal leads are remove and or insulated with some glue. Remove the caps from the power leads and add new ones, Rubycon ZL or ZLH caps from Steve at OSE. A Castle cap bank from OSE would be simplest. If you can find just a polarized cap of some kind in the 480uf, 35vdc rasnge first, solder in and bench tested before spending money on a cap bank, maybe it can be saved.

                    Stop using internal bec and dont use low c batts.
                    Nortavlag Bulc

                    Comment

                    • Mxkid261
                      Senior Member
                      • Jun 2015
                      • 734

                      #11
                      Awesome thanks a lot for the info I was not aware of the timing difference between a Y/D winding motor. So I can pull the caps from the actual speed controller body and seal that off, then pull the caps off the positive/negative wires and just solder in a castle cap bank? If I just cooked the caps could I possibly fix it with the cap bank? Also do I need to heat the caps up on the ESC or just grab with a pliers and give them a yank Lol? Thanks again I appreciate

                      Comment

                      • ray schrauwen
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 9471

                        #12
                        If the esc is considered dead at this time yes, just pull off the caps with pliers from main unit, no heat or more can be damaged. Unsolder the caps from the main leads and toss out.

                        It would be cheapest to get one capacitor first to solder onto the leads to test the esc if it will still live before buying a whole cap bank.

                        Just make sure when you pull the caps of main board that you don't have any remaining wires that can short out. If it works, seal up the holes where caps were and solder in a nice cap bank. Don't waste more money than you have to.
                        Nortavlag Bulc

                        Comment

                        • Mxkid261
                          Senior Member
                          • Jun 2015
                          • 734

                          #13
                          Thanks a bunch for the info I will try that first. I will pull the caps off my spartan esc and try those to see if its actually dead

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                          • Jamey
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2015
                            • 199

                            #14
                            Mxkid,
                            What prop were you running? I have had the caps get really hot on my 180 also. Not like yours, but still really hot. Have since increased the motor and prop sizes and it has been fine. Weird. I try not to hammer the throttle as much now.

                            I don't believe the timing was the issue. I have ran 0 timing forever on castle y motors and never had an issue. They draw less amps with less timing, they just lose rpm. Just because Ys benefit from extra timing doesn't mean they have to have it to run right. This of course in my experience only.

                            Comment

                            • dmitry100
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Mar 2015
                              • 1264

                              #15
                              Get some of the 560uf rubycon caps off of ebay... I got a pack of 10 of them for like 6 bucks or something.

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