Seaking 180A ESC CAPS bulging!

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  • tlandauer
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2011
    • 5666

    #1

    Seaking 180A ESC CAPS bulging!

    I got carried away a bit today after my MG ran well for the first time (riding pads were trued).
    Set up is Leopard 4082/2200kv, 4s2p, m445.
    The three original caps are bulged, can I just desolder them and put new ones on? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...k-cap-35v-1000 and even add an extra bank?
    Anyone done this? Is the ESC toasted? When I brought the boat in it was still working, temp was on the hight side, 138* on the heat sink and caps were at 168* I always time my run, today was stupid.
    Too many boats, not enough time...
  • SirBudman32
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2011
    • 625

    #2
    I have a Hobby King T-180 (Same as Seaking) And thats what I did to mine. One of my caps swelled up, took all 3 off and put on new ones. No biggie.
    Modified Jae21, Stock Jae21, Cheetah, Ul-1, Shock Wave 26 V2 (Rescue Boat).

    Comment

    • tlandauer
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2011
      • 5666

      #3
      Thanks, SirBudman32. Will do just that.
      Too many boats, not enough time...

      Comment

      • 1945dave
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2012
        • 304

        #4
        I agree this is no biggie as SirBudman stated. But I have a question. Why are your temps so high using a M445 on 4S, are you sure your water cooling is proper? Your stated setup seems fine and I have to think something else is part of this story. The caps themselves don't work all that hard but they do not handle heat very well. The Seaking 180 is pretty tough. To answer your original question go ahead and replace all of the caps and even add a few more.

        Dave

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        • Rumdog
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Mar 2009
          • 6453

          #5
          all depends on driving style. continuous on/off, or partial throttle will heat em up pretty quick.

          Comment

          • 1945dave
            Senior Member
            • Mar 2012
            • 304

            #6
            Originally posted by Rumdog
            all depends on driving style. continuous on/off, or partial throttle will heat em up pretty quick.
            I have pretty much the same setup and I have never had temp readings like these. wonder what motor timing he is using. I was told to not run 15 degrees on my Leo 4082 to run around 10 and I think my program card for the controller only let me set it to 11.25. Perhaps he should lower his timing?

            Dave

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            • Mecka1990
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2012
              • 175

              #7
              got a question to on capacitor banks, i got 2x swordfisch 200ams plus esc on a 2x 5s setup with 2x 2075KV 3674 brushless inrunner, 43mm prop, did i need capacitor banks? and is my esc waterproofed? im not sure how to waterproof it
              Zonda 41" Carbon Cat, Motors: 2x 2075KV 3674 Brushless Inrunner, ESC: 2x 200Ish plus, Props: 2x 42mm, 2x 5s 5000Mah 50/100c

              Comment

              • tlandauer
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2011
                • 5666

                #8
                Originally posted by Rumdog
                all depends on driving style. continuous on/off, or partial throttle will heat em up pretty quick.
                This is the only thing that I can think of, I was also running it for a long time, since now I am running 4s2p. the running time is longer . I used to run 4s1p and after 2 or 3 min. the LVC will kick in. This boat used to bounce badly before so that heat was never a problem because all I did was short sprints with long in between Had this for two years and I was very new at the time and put it aside, so really it is the first time I really ran it. Weather is hot, but I would be looking for an excuse if I attribute to that.
                Rumdog, thanks for the diagnose!
                Too many boats, not enough time...

                Comment

                • tlandauer
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2011
                  • 5666

                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1945dave
                  I have pretty much the same setup and I have never had temp readings like these. wonder what motor timing he is using. I was told to not run 15 degrees on my Leo 4082 to run around 10 and I think my program card for the controller only let me set it to 11.25. Perhaps he should lower his timing?

                  Dave
                  I will look into the timing, and yes, they only allow 11.25* timing. I was too anxious to see how my new "trued" riding pads worked, forgot everything else, thay's why I said I was stupid.
                  Too many boats, not enough time...

                  Comment

                  • Make-a-Wake
                    FE Rules!
                    • Nov 2009
                    • 5557

                    #10
                    That is odd...............your setup shouldnt have strained a T180. 168* on caps is really nothing to be concerned about in my book..............they are "rated" up to 105*c or roughly 225*f.

                    The caps are going to be tough to take off as they use some sort of "high grade" solder, i used a dremel and cut mine off, redrilled the little holes and resoldered new ones on, good luck and I'm curious to hear how it goes for you if you try to just desolder them............
                    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

                    Comment

                    • tlandauer
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Apr 2011
                      • 5666

                      #11
                      Will report back, thanks for the heads-up! I was really considering fixing the MG your way---selling it. ( Sorry if I got it wrong, but I seemed to remember you said that once before)
                      Too many boats, not enough time...

                      Comment

                      • BHChieftain
                        Fast Electric Addict
                        • Nov 2009
                        • 1969

                        #12
                        I was having a cap overheating problem-- the ESC and motor were cool, but caps very hot, actually burnt out one of 'em on a seaking 120. It was on an OPC tunnel, 4S on aquacraft 2030kv, x442 prop. Fluid advised me to shorten my ESC leads as much as possible. Problem solved.

                        Chief

                        Comment

                        • tlandauer
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Apr 2011
                          • 5666

                          #13
                          Hi Chief,
                          do you mean the motor to ESC wires or the ESC to batteries wires?
                          Too many boats, not enough time...

                          Comment

                          • BHChieftain
                            Fast Electric Addict
                            • Nov 2009
                            • 1969

                            #14
                            Originally posted by tlandauer
                            Hi Chief,
                            do you mean the motor to ESC wires or the ESC to batteries wires?
                            The ESC-to-battery wires for the caps.

                            But, it is also a good idea to have as short as possbile ESC-to-Motor, but don't think that affects the cap temps. If you shorten the ESC-to-Motor path, cut the ESC wires and not the motor wires, as some motor wires are very hard to tin for soldering later (they have a coating on them).

                            Chief

                            Comment

                            • Make-a-Wake
                              FE Rules!
                              • Nov 2009
                              • 5557

                              #15
                              Originally posted by tlandauer
                              Hi Chief,
                              do you mean the motor to ESC wires or the ESC to batteries wires?
                              All of them, I even shortened the motor wires on my 1717 so that every wire was a short as possible in the whole setup, reduces heat and cuts down on amp loss.
                              NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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