Caps for Seaking 120A ESC

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • BHChieftain
    Fast Electric Addict
    • Nov 2009
    • 1969

    #1

    Caps for Seaking 120A ESC

    The caps on my seaking 120A ESC are running hot, looking to add a cap bank-- any recommendations on which to use?

    My setup is a Woodstuff 29" OPC Tunnel, UL1 2050kv motor, Seaking 120A ESC, x442 prop (would like to get to an M445), on hyperion 4S1P GX packs (2 x 2s1p).

    Thanks,
    Chief
  • dana
    Banned
    • Mar 2010
    • 3573

    #2
    Have you tried raising the prop first?

    Comment

    • BHChieftain
      Fast Electric Addict
      • Nov 2009
      • 1969

      #3
      Yes, I raised the strut as high as i can go without spinning out-- and the nose is perfect-- running about an inch or 2 above the water at full throttle. She is running nice, all, temps are good except for the caps. Strut puts the prop shaft slightly above the bottom of the sponsons.

      Chief

      Comment

      • Fluid
        Fast and Furious
        • Apr 2007
        • 8011

        #4
        Let's see a photo of the interior of the model. Most setups I see have excessive power wire lengths, this increases the ripple a lot and heats up the caps. Cutting the wires to the minimum practical length usually lower ripple and cap temps.



        .
        ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

        Comment

        • BHChieftain
          Fast Electric Addict
          • Nov 2009
          • 1969

          #5
          Originally posted by Fluid
          Let's see a photo of the interior of the model. Most setups I see have excessive power wire lengths, this increases the ripple a lot and heats up the caps. Cutting the wires to the minimum practical length usually lower ripple and cap temps.



          .

          I think you are right-- first of all, I needed to extend the ESC-to-Motor leads (I don't see any way around that one), but the stock size of the ESC battery leads are really long- I can easily cut those down.

          Chief
          Attached Files

          Comment

          • dana
            Banned
            • Mar 2010
            • 3573

            #6
            you could mount the esc up top and butt it right up against the rear wall of your box.get rid of the extentions it looks like youve got there

            Comment

            • BHChieftain
              Fast Electric Addict
              • Nov 2009
              • 1969

              #7
              Originally posted by dana
              you could mount the esc up top and butt it right up against the rear wall of your box.get rid of the extentions it looks like youve got there
              I tried that but the leads were still to short to avoid extentions.

              I did shortened the power lead wires this morning and took it out for a run, but the damage had been done-- the caps are fried. The boat will run for about 30seconds before shutting off. Do you think I could leave the old caps on the ESC and just install a cap bank to bring it back to life?

              Chief

              Comment

              • BHChieftain
                Fast Electric Addict
                • Nov 2009
                • 1969

                #8
                Originally posted by Fluid
                Let's see a photo of the interior of the model. Most setups I see have excessive power wire lengths, this increases the ripple a lot and heats up the caps. Cutting the wires to the minimum practical length usually lower ripple and cap temps.



                .
                Hi Fluid,
                Just wanted to say thanks-- I put in a new speed controller (went from seaking 120 to an aquacraft 60), and hacked power lead wires way down... took the boat out for some runs this morning-- cap temps are now good.

                Chief

                Comment

                Working...