Swordfish X+ water cooling

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  • TRUCKPULL
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 2971

    #1

    Swordfish X+ water cooling

    I was working on a couple of Swordfish X+ 200A ESC's today.
    The water inlets were only .095" inside, So I took some measurements
    To see if a piece of 5/32" ID. brass tubing would make it better.
    It will fit.
    So I drilled out the ESC to 5/32" all the way through, then I used a 3/16" reamer to open up the ends to 7/16" deep.
    Every thing would fit like a charm.
    This would make the water flow 2.8 times more then before.
    I then had to come up with a way to make the tubing secure so it would not just slid off.
    Even with a wire tie. I still needed a bump on the end to stop it from sliding.

    Larry
    Attached Files
    Last edited by TRUCKPULL; 03-10-2022, 03:04 PM.
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
  • TRUCKPULL
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 2971

    #2
    So I cut a few pieces of 5/32 ID. tubing 1" long, heated one end up and quenched it in water to soften it.
    I took a piece of 3/16" Dia. aluminum . turned the end down to 5/32" to fit into the tubing with a taper at the top.
    I then put this piece into the tube, and used a small tap hammer about 4 to 5 taps, to flare out the end.
    I then heated the end up again and let it Air cool to harder it.
    A little JB weld to hold the tubes in place.
    Now we have good water flow and no change of a water line coming off.

    I think that you could also use a flare kit for 3/16" brake line.

    Larry
    Attached Files
    Last edited by TRUCKPULL; 03-10-2022, 03:05 PM.
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

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    • fweasel
      master of some
      • Jul 2016
      • 4282

      #3
      Nice flare tool you made there. I tried messing with small diameter automotive flare tools, but it was more trouble than it was worth. Now I just cut a small 3-4mm section of brass tube the next size up, sand the rough edges down, and solder it over the end of the cooling tube. It provides just enough bite to keep the hose and zip tie from sliding off.
      Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

      Comment

      • tbonemcniel
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2020
        • 296

        #4
        I like the cooling mods to the ESC! I run that same ESC in my P Mono very close to the continuous amp limit, and haven't had any cooling issues with the ESC in stock form yet. Were you having cooling issues? I do run a dual pickup rudder, so the small lines on the ESC don't restrict water flow to my motor, only the ESC itself, which so far hasn't had any cooling issues.

        Comment

        • TRUCKPULL
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2007
          • 2971

          #5
          Andrew
          I have not even got these wet yet.
          The reason that I opened them up is I run 6mm inputs and outputs (I even drill them out a little larger on the inside) on all my motors.
          So to maintain the 5/32" ID. of the XL tubing, I opened up the ESC's to 5/32" ID. so as not to have a water restriction on the first item
          of the water going into the boat.

          Larry
          Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
          Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
          Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

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