Hello guys. I've recently replaced my Leopard 3650 with a Leopard 3675. I've upped the prop accordingly, and kept the same speed controller which is a Swordfish Pro+ 120amp. The battery is a 4S 3300mah. The controller is rated at 120a continuous, 140a bursts. The motor is rated at 90A max. I've only tested through one battery pack, and the speed controller made a couple hard cut-offs, just like it would if the LVC came on. Letting off the throttle and giving it throttle again resets it, as it should.... The speed controller felt warm, not hot, but the log shows otherwise. The motor was barely warm. I reviewed the log, and it was as follows....
108Amp max.
12V min.
66 deg. C (150 degrees F)
28,554 max rpm.
I'm guessing 150 degrees is pretty hot for a speed controller, so maybe that's where they have the thermal cut-off set. Would it be safe to assume I have a water cooling issue, or is that pretty typical for 108amp on a 120A swordfish? I have the hose routed from my rudder, through the water jacket, through one side of the ESC, then 180 short loop back through the other side of the ESC, then out of the boat. I did notice that people recommend opening up the inlet on the rudder so that it tapers all the way to the leading edge.
108Amp max.
12V min.
66 deg. C (150 degrees F)
28,554 max rpm.
I'm guessing 150 degrees is pretty hot for a speed controller, so maybe that's where they have the thermal cut-off set. Would it be safe to assume I have a water cooling issue, or is that pretty typical for 108amp on a 120A swordfish? I have the hose routed from my rudder, through the water jacket, through one side of the ESC, then 180 short loop back through the other side of the ESC, then out of the boat. I did notice that people recommend opening up the inlet on the rudder so that it tapers all the way to the leading edge.
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