When is an ETTI cap board needed?

[FE Wannabe]

I am planning on using the non BEC Etti 150 ESC in my BBY UL-1 ABS - N2 Sport Hydro that I am building and I was wondering, when is the additional cap bank recommended?
I am planning on starting with a Feigao 6L on 2S2P 4350mah 25C PolyQuest Enerland batts. I was going to start with my smallest 3/16" shafted prop, (x536) and work my way up. Should I consider the cap bank for this setup or not?

Let me know if there is any "rule of thumb" for these cap banks.

Thanks,
Brad

[HOTWATER]

Good question Brad! I have been wondering the same thing...

-Kent

[Jeff Wohlt]

IMHO....they should all come from the facotry that way! Usually just higher power but why not have the security of them in anythig 4S and up ESCs.

[HOTWATER]

Thanks Jeff!...check out "cavition" on here...

-Kent

[Jesse J]

I agree with Jeff. I am lamenting that I didn't add them to mine (still sitting on the bench in their brand new state). Yesterday I blew off better reason and threw in my 5S packs to the DF33 still with her X448 prop. After a minute or so, she started showing intermittent cutting out of speed, brought her back (still under power) and one of the caps was half lifted off and smokey. I don't know if beyond repair or not, but am convinced that had the extra cap board been installed this wouldn't have happened. The problem was when she was hopping on wakes in and out of the water, there must have been monstrous amp spikes.

[longballlumber]

The "extra" cap board or "extra" caps on a speedo is simply added insurace... JMHO

[FE Wannabe]

Thanks

Thanks for the responses guys.
So, from what I gather the cap bank would be recommended for this ESC for any race setup no matter the voltage.
I do not want to fry my "Chinese Mini Pop Tart"!

Brad

[Jesse J]

How are those added, if I may ask here? I have em and see a place to solder two wires, anybody care to share a pic of how that was added?
thanks

[FE Wannabe]

How are those added, if I may ask here? I have em and see a place to solder two wires, anybody care to share a pic of how that was added?
thanks

Jesse,

Here is the picture from OSE, I think these pics came from Douggie the Flying Scotsman originally. Picture #3 shows the installed cap board attached to the ETTI ESC.

Brad

[Jeff Wohlt]

The best way is cut insulation off each wire ahead of the ESC and solder it inline with it. Simple and easy. Do not cut the wire.

[HOTWATER]

The best way is cut insulation off each wire ahead of the ESC and solder it inline with it. Simple and easy. Do not cut the wire.

Jeff, that is exactly what I just saw in a thread picture about them. You are on the ball!! VERY good advice!! Thank you!!!

[HOTWATER]

Also...Good job Brad...That is the pic I spotted (I thought it was in one of the threads) Kudos for the pics also Douggie!!

-Kent

[crabstick]

Diy Article from the Shultze Website.

http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.com/guide/gfutc-de.pdf

This is a good bit of info

[detox]

These Rubycons are what I use. This company is very easy to deal with and very fast shipping.
http://www.newark.com/rubycon/25zlh1...questid=246709

[AntronX]

Here is how I soldered Etti cap board to Hydra 240: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...xtra+capacitor

If your caps are too hot to the touch, then they are working too hard. You can do 3 things: reduce amp draw (use smaller prop), reduce wiring resistance (shorten wires or use thicker wires) or add more capacitors. Buy low ESR "ZL" or "ZLH" type capacitors with same microfarad and voltage ratings than caps on your ESC. Doubling the amount of caps is a good start. It may not be a good idea to use one large cap over many small ones. One 1000 mF capacitor will have higher resistance than four or five 220 mF caps in parallel. When you add extra caps, the spark upon connecting power will get too big and will eat your connectors. use 1 Ohm 5 Watt resistor to charge caps to avoid big spark.