Advice for replacing Swordfish X 300A to ZTW Seal G2 or Flier 300A or ....

[voepel]

I need to replace my Swordfish X 300A in my 48" Outerlimits XXX running on 10S with TP 5680 (800kV). I have been looking at ZTW Seal G2 300A and Flier 300A so far. I would like input as to the success or failure you have had with these ESC's or other alternatives to try. I have hope Castle will come out soon with HV.

Thanks, Steve

[fweasel]

The minute Castle releases their 12S ESC, it will be a winner. Until then, I prefer the ZTW 300A V1. The G2 should have been better, but with software issues and unexplained fires, it's a gamble. The Fliers I've used in the past also failed catastrophically under mild conditions. I would never use one of those again, nor would I ever recommend the brand.

For comparison, my 60" Bonzi Epic also runs a TP5680. I originally started with a 650kV motor running 12S and the ZTW V1 ESC. It was too fast for the water conditions I was running in and have since re-rigged it for lower voltage. I've also run 12S, TP5680, ZTW 300A in a 48" Outerlimits SV43 and a 50" Outerlimits Raptor. The ZTW worked out great.

[Bande1]

love my fliers. I've been told they had issues out of the box years ago and you either got one that worked or you didnt. If they work they work really well. Fliers allow you to adjust timing in 1 degree increments which is great.

[Silver954]

What happened to the swordfish x? Asking because I got two of them.

[voepel]

Guys, thanks for your experiences. I am going to try the G2 for now and see if Castle comes through on HV.

In regard to Swordfish 300 X, I just updated my motor from Leopard 56110 (800kv) to TP 5680 (800kV). I was also running SMC SRD V3 batteries over my HRB batteries. Using a x460 prop I ran three laps and got 61mph. I then switched to a new CNC 3 blade 59mm with same pitch as Octura. I definitely noticed better out of the hole shot and the speed increased to 67mph. I just started the third lap when the boat just stopped. I went out in retrieve boat and saw smoke coming out, so I was not sure if batteries puffed or what. It's never easy when you have two sets of 10S batteries. I waited a few minutes trying to decide to go in and try to unplug stuff when the boat made a big pop sound and lifted up my hatch, but still on with tape on. That was a little unnerving. I decided to try to save what I could and got the hatch off and saw the Swordfish 300A had exploded. The batteries and the motor seemed fine. I have had this Swordfish for probably ten years with no issues. I am not sure if the 3 blade really made the difference to stress the ESC or the motor, but I got a good life out of it. I did have another Swordfish 240A with Castle 2028 (760kv) and the motor locked up and took the ESC with it. I have had pretty good look with Swordfish, but people have moved on to other ESCs nowadays since OSE does not sell anymore.

Steve

[fweasel]

Don't expect any other ESC to perform better than that Swordfish on the identical setup. You clearly over propped the boat with the 3-blade.

[Bande1]

gas > electric

There is this persistent myth that FE is fastest. In reality it is the by far the slowest. By the time you get to 1 mile record class FE falls way behind nitro and gas. and the delta grows the larger hull you go.

Take the electric stuff out and I will build you a promod 29.5cc zenoah for $325 shipped. You will go 67mph for as long as you like, with half the weight, no tape, no charging batteries, no worry about fires.

[fweasel]

gas > electric

That's simply your opinion and doesn't account for any of the OP's preferences or limitations.

[Bande1]

OP is definitely finding his limitations with electric.

[voepel]

Don't expect any other ESC to perform better than that Swordfish on the identical setup. You clearly over propped the boat with the 3-blade.

Yes, I thought I had more headroom to play with. This is first time trying out 3 blades. Between TFL Pro Marine, ZTW and Flier they probably are fairly equal in the 300A category. I have just not had to buy a new ESC till now.

Steve

[voepel]

gas > electric

There is this persistent myth that FE is fastest. In reality it is the by far the slowest. By the time you get to 1 mile record class FE falls way behind nitro and gas. and the delta grows the larger hull you go.

Take the electric stuff out and I will build you a promod 29.5cc zenoah for $325 shipped. You will go 67mph for as long as you like, with half the weight, no tape, no charging batteries, no worry about fires.

My club is always trying to get me to convert, but I don't think I can do it after 24 years of electric. Hopefully, the next gen of batteries (solid state...) will help equalize things in bigger boats. I like the idea of twins and have a Q Cat twin and Q mono twin. So much easier on the electronics and motors unless you push it. I may not have to worry about fires, but the last few races always have a runaway gas boat with the throttle servo stuck to full throttle wondering where it's going to end up.

Steve

[Peter A]

My club is always trying to get me to convert, but I don't think I can do it after 24 years of electric. Hopefully, the next gen of batteries (solid state...) will help equalize things in bigger boats. I like the idea of twins and have a Q Cat twin and Q mono twin. So much easier on the electronics and motors unless you push it. I may not have to worry about fires, but the last few races always have a runaway gas boat with the throttle servo stuck to full throttle wondering where it's going to end up.

Steve

On the gas vs electric. I battled for years against gassers, and played hard with them. I used to race a pursuit against them years ago and would still win. It is possible to compete and win against them. Some examples I have raced with:

40" 8255 hull on 6s - raced against sport hydros and beat them. Boat is currently on 8s and clocks 115+kph, I will be racing it this weekend in open hydro for our club champs.

45" mono, 12s 6000mah, 440 kv, 130A SK esc, ABC 2414/4 prop, 90 kph. It was easily competitive and I could do two races on one charge.

42" Osprey, set up for offshore endurance racing. It ran in both 10 and 12 s configurations with Multistar 20,000 mah batts. It would do a 20 min heat on one set of batts. with battery changes it also did one hour heats with two, and sometimes only one pit stop depending on water conditions.

I have recently finished a rebuild of an SGX Eagle 90 rigger that is now powered by a SSS5692 1100kv motor on 8s. Testing so far (props - only had 4 runs on it) has it at over 110 kph (est). I'll put the gps in it next time.

The point is that it is completely possible to race competitively against gassers with electric. Lower kv and bigger props generally make it easier on esc's and batts and you don't necessarily need massive amounts of batteries to make it work. Having a well set up and dialed in boat, plus driving it well can see great results. In reality, it is often that the fastest boat doesn't always win. In fact the fastest boat more than likely will dnf, being reliable and consistent is better for heat racing and accumulating points.

[Bande1]

My club is always trying to get me to convert, but I don't think I can do it after 24 years of electric. Hopefully, the next gen of batteries (solid state...) will help equalize things in bigger boats. I like the idea of twins and have a Q Cat twin and Q mono twin. So much easier on the electronics and motors unless you push it. I may not have to worry about fires, but the last few races always have a runaway gas boat with the throttle servo stuck to full throttle wondering where it's going to end up.

Steve

you never heard of a kill switch? I run them in all my gas boats. If power is lost for any reason it automatically stalls the engine at the coil. You can manually kill it from your 3rd channel as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Larg...s%2C214&sr=8-1

[fastboatboy]

New hobbywing seaking v4 300amp and 200 hv have been released would be a great option both 14s capable

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