Tried phoning customer support for 4 days no one returning my calls. ?#1 can the 3 motors leads be extended . #2 can power leads be extended, #3 Do i have to solder a resistor to + power lead for anti spark leads . #4 can esc be used with default settings . I should not have to be asking these questions . Poor customer support and vague instructions not impressed so far. Regards Andris Golts.
Castle XLX2 ?
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1) Yes but silly question, it's not a motor. I guess you are asking motor to ESC wire length. As short as possible but as long as needed.
2) Yes
Depends on your load though, the shorter, the better.
3) if that is what you want, yes or use anti-spark connectors (QS8 style)
4) depends on your motor, servo etc. but yes. Not really a question they would be able to answer without knowing your system. Servo determines BEC setting, motor the timing etc.
No offense, but these questions are truly not for customer support. They are also well explained in the manual, just like any other ESC. -
I'll answer too, but mostly the same.
1. Motor wires should ALWAYS be as short as possible. I arrange all my boats so that no motor wire extensions are needed, but if you have to, then you have to.
2. Same, but not quite as important. Always as short as possible, but if you have to, you have to. If I had to extend something, I would choose the battery wires over motor wires to extend.
3. No, you don't have to. The easiest way to get anti-spark, is to simply use anti-spark connectors like I do. I use QS8's. They have anti-spark circuitry built into the connector so nothing else needs added. I've also had them support 400A+ draws without coming unsoldered.
4. Maybe. Depends on your combo. If you're using a sensored motor and it spins the wrong direction, you must change the direction in the ESC. If not sensored, you can swap two wires or change setting in ESC. Factory BEC setting is 5.5v, you may desire to up that if your electronics can support more. Factory timing advance is set at 10 degrees, you may want to adjust that based on your motor. If you're talking about an XLX2 and not a Hydra, then braking and reverse are set up in the ESC, which is not desirable in a boat. You're going to want to change those settings. There are many others you can set, punch control I find useful, LVC settings, datalog items, motor start power, etc etc.Comment
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See below for additional manuals.
You can't change any settings without the PC adapter and their software, a free 'castle link' adapter card is in your package. Request it following the instructions. It's free.
Link and code are on the card that came with your PC, again it's free for 1ea. or pay $25 for additional.
Correct link: https://www.castlecreations.com/en/f...ck-011-0007-00
PC Software: https://home.castlecreations.com/download-castle-link/
You could get a Bluetooth adapter for Apple/Android, but it costs extra, worth it if you like to look at log files while out and about.
Many additional links are below.
Direct links below might not work, go to above and the links are on the top of that page.
Get the 'Driver ED' guide, direct link below but might not work. They are linked in the
https://dzf8vqv24eqhg.cloudfront.net...1606201035-446
Sensored guide:
This one is in the box:
https://dzf8vqv24eqhg.cloudfront.net...95-0405-00.pdf
Hope it helps.Comment
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Battery wire length is more critical than motor wire length. If the power leads are too long, it introduces capacitance in the circuit which causes ripple currents. Ripple currents are what kill ESC's.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
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Very true, however the XLX2 has excellent ripple suppression. I log all my boats every run, and have multiple X8S?s and XLX2?s. I especially watch ripple voltage, and add a cap pack if necessary. So far, only the X8S?s on the faster boats have needed one. Even pulling 400A+ the XLX2?s have had good ripple voltage readings. One of my boats pulls 300A+ continuous with extended battery leads (only like 3?) and ripple voltage is never above 10%.Comment
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Very true, however the XLX2 has excellent ripple suppression. I log all my boats every run, and have multiple X8S?s and XLX2?s. I especially watch ripple voltage, and add a cap pack if necessary. So far, only the X8S?s on the faster boats have needed one. Even pulling 400A+ the XLX2?s have had good ripple voltage readings. One of my boats pulls 300A+ continuous with extended battery leads (only like 3?) and ripple voltage is never above 10%.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
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Correct, I have not found the need to add extra caps to the XLX2 or X8S unless you are running excessively long battery leads. As mentioned above, it is best to keep the cable short, use good connectors and make sure your solder joints are good.
The XLX2 does not have in internal anti-spark. You can easily make an external one using some alligator clips are some resistors. You can use a wide range of resistors from 1/4 ohm to 5k. You can put several resistors in parallel to increase the wattage. If you run 6-8S it's a good idea to use a soft start anti spark circuit to save your connectors from eroding away. It does not damage the ESC.Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WRComment
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I recall seeing someone say the same, I forget who. I haven't personally put a cap pack on any of my XLX2's, but one of our club members runs a T Mono on 8S with an XLX2 that keeps up with the 10S boats, so his amp draw is VERY high. Like 500A continuous, and he has a cap pack on that XLX2 for the past 6 months with no issues (well, he cracked his hull in half and had to build a new hull, but no electronic issues).Comment
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