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Pick up a Shultz 40160or61 save yourself a ton of grief!Comment
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I have the esc plugged into the correct channel...channel 2!! And the battery to the reciever was a last ditch option that was done after everything was turned off. I should add here that i ran the boat with the esc over the weekend and it worked fine. It's just that if the battery isn't plugged into the reciever, then it will spin the prop when you turn the wheel.Comment
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So the motor was running when you pulled the trigger as well as tuned the wheel? I though you meant it only worked when you turned the wheel.
That sounds like a radio issue, is it programmable? Can you reset it to factory defaults in case you accidentally put a mix on it, or the factory put settings on it for QA then neglected to reset to defaults afterwards? Is the TX battery charged? Is it a brand name Radio with a service department and support? Do you have a known working ESC you can test it with?Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.Comment
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The motor works fine as it should when you pull the trigger. The strange thing is once you are not pressing the trigger and you turn the wheel, the esc engages and spins the prop. But plugging a battery into the reciever stops it and everything works fine. I will try and get a video of it later when i get in from work. Oh and i use a Futaba 7PX that works quite fine will all my other boats....electric and gas.Comment
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Hmmm weird problem. Do you have another radio to try it with?24 R/C vehicles and still counting...What budget?
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It really sounds strange but I observed some more issues on the ZTW that I don't like.
ZTW300 Seal, nominally it is Opto
:- Minus of the HV-Batterie and Minus of RX lead is the same. A friend ran two motors and 2 ESC, he removed the red wire from the RX lead and it worked well. Some others I know had burned minus wire on the RX. On an opto controller it actually should not be connected to the high power circuit
- One colleague tested to use such an additional opto-module that is made for plugging in between RX and ESC and it worked. It is cool that it worked but on the other hand it should not work...
For the not so electrical guys as an explanation: The optocoupler separates 2 electric circuits optically. You have one LED going in and a photo-sensitive transistor going out. Without electricity on the rear side the photo-sensitive transistor would not work. Putting 2 optocouplers in series, the first one should have no electricity on the rear side and should not be able to operate the LED of the second one. But it works on the ZTW300Seal which means that there is something wrong with the electrical "opto-separation"
- Just to get some understanding I plugged my ProgBox to the RX-lead. It did not work but the display was not complete dark anymore. There was some electricity on the RX-lead that should not be there on an opto-ESC.
Wikipedia has a nice gif to explain the function of an opto coupler:
A usual Opto-ESC connects Impulse (white or yellow wire coming from the RX) with "+" of the LED having about 300Ohm as a resistor in between and Minus of the RX wire to the low side of the LED. "+" is not used and there should be no connection of RX-side and HV-side...
Would you really trust an electronic device that has functions that you don't understand?
Using this "unexpected electricity" by using a second opto-module to separate the "burned minus wire-issue" you rely on this electricity being reliable. On the other hand this electricity should not be there, it says that the ESC has an optocoupler, obviously it does not have one or it is installed having a different understanding of how to do it and minus can be measured to be the same on HV side as well as on RX-side. Strange. I really don't like it and this is also why I have a pair of ZTW300 Seal lying around. I just don't trust them.
ZTW200 Seal... It has a BEC and just works well for me in a 2 motored boat. I use a self made Y-connector that does not connect + to the RX and a RX Batterie. I had to update the Firmware to get a reliable startup but now it is fine. Before the startup had issues with any motor I tried (4092 SSS, 4082 Surpass Rocket, 1950 Lehner), with the new Firmware it is fine, currently driving Neu 1527 2300kV, it is a 6s setup.
I have no interaction of servo and ESC BUT I also had some issues with modern high power servos. The newest HV-Servos are also quite powerful and sometimes also have brushless motors. Using such a servo I would always choose a separate RX-Batterie and not use the BEC if there should be one. The new, fast 20+kg with 0,0xsec Servos can be really cool mechanically-wise but electrically they are also quite demanding and on the limit of current BEC and RX-Connectors.
If I look at the topics above on how trustworthy the ZTW are designed according to optocoupler, ... I am not sure whether the BEC-supply is reliable and what reactions on sudden load on the BEC you have to expect. The only ZTW I am currently using are the SEAL 200A and I don't use the BEC as the boat has 2 motors, I have to separate one +-wire going to the RX anyway and I have a high power HV-servo so I wanted a separate RX-Batterie for that reason as well so both +-wires to the RX are separated. This works well.
What I did see is that when I have the motors running, coming to a stop one motor sometimes has a short peak to speed up for about half a second.
With all the topics above making the ZTW not so trustworthy this is just one additional detail...
On the other hand there are also positive things on the ZTW.
Most ESC-Manufacturers use a very tight dimensioning of the capacitors.Turnigy has 3000?F on a 180A ESC on the board, Flycolor has 2240?F on a 150A ESC with lousy connection to the main board, the 200A ZTW have 6 capacitors of the same mechanical dimension as the 180A Turnigy have instead of 3 capacitors AND they are connected to the water cooling
It is a pity that I can't read the numbers on the caps there but that fore they have the connection to the water cooling.
But the ZTW have many topics that I don't like. When I had discussions with the vendor whom I bought the 200A Seal from I made several videos. When the motors reached high speed the EMC really challenged the sound-recording of my cellphone. You can hear the EMC-emissions in the video as a random noise that does not exist in reality
... just another detail ...Last edited by plinse; 12-09-2020, 01:14 PM.Comment
- Minus of the HV-Batterie and Minus of RX lead is the same. A friend ran two motors and 2 ESC, he removed the red wire from the RX lead and it worked well. Some others I know had burned minus wire on the RX. On an opto controller it actually should not be connected to the high power circuit
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