Q mono ESC amperage??

[tjj atx]

I am building a 38" DF 45 MK II Q mono course boat. TP 4070 3Y (1520kv), ABC 1914 or 2014 17-45 CL. Would a 300amp swordfish pro plus be overkill or would the 240amp pro plus be plenty? I want to make sure I've got enough ESC to run a higher overall pitch prop if need be.

[RaceMechaniX]

You want overkill for Q mono. I have a 38" DF mono for Q and log between 260-280A on average with spikes up to 340A. I have to add a lot of cooling to make the ESC survive this level, but it works for me. I am running a little more motor than a 4070, but plan on the 300A ESC.

[tjj atx]

You want overkill for Q mono. I have a 38" DF mono for Q and log between 260-280A on average with spikes up to 340A. I have to add a lot of cooling to make the ESC survive this level, but it works for me. I am running a little more motor than a 4070, but plan on the 300A ESC.

Thank you sir. I've got a 300amp pro already so I'll go with it. How did you add water cooling, a water cooled esc plate? Any prop suggestions for my setup?

[HTVboats]

Tyler is correct on 250 + amps easily with a Q. I run that DF with a 4070 1350kv for heat racing and find 1914/3 and X450-452/3 blades work well. Your 1520 kv will require less prop to make 6 laps. I do find 3 blades carry the boat better especially with the 300SF (the Brick) up front.
Mic

[tjj atx]

Sounds like the 1914/2 would be a good prop to start with since I have it already. I'll use a battery checker and see how much battery I have left and go from there. I dont have many 3 blades and none that'll work on that boat. I may have to add some more 3 blades to my collection. Thanks for the help guys.

[RaceMechaniX]

Your best tool to check is going to be motor temp. After a run pull the cowl off and with your hand touch the end bell of the motor and the end of the shaft. You want to stay under 160-180F. If you cannot touch without holding your finger on the end for several seconds it's too much prop. You can also use an IR meter, but I find touching it with a finger is consistent and easy.

[tjj atx]

Your best tool to check is going to be motor temp. After a run pull the cowl off and with your hand touch the end bell of the motor and the end of the shaft. You want to stay under 160-180F. If you cannot touch without holding your finger on the end for several seconds it's too much prop. You can also use an IR meter, but I find touching it with a finger is consistent and easy.

Thanks for the tip. I'm about two years into the hobby and will take all the help I can get. I probably would have thrown in the towel by now if it wasn't for all the help I have received. It is appreciated

[cmoo]

Recently Stripped my dated hull of all its shiny OSE hardware. Looking to put all of The parts in a configuration similar to this but with the 41” version of this hull. My only question being what is a “Q” mono? And can a non “Q” mono run a smaller esc. Thanks!

[HTVboats]

Q being 6S will pull amps proportional to size (watts) of the motor and prop load. Going higher in volts say 8 or 10S and lower in KV proportionally will require less amps in an esc. Less prop, less speed, and longer run 6S. Too small a prop and efficiency goes in the toilet. Anything over a 40X82mm (3 watts) will need more than a 200 amp ESC, Not what you want to hear I am sure.
Mic

[tjj atx]

Recently Stripped my dated hull of all its shiny OSE hardware. Looking to put all of The parts in a configuration similar to this but with the 41? version of this hull. My only question being what is a ?Q? mono? And can a non ?Q? mono run a smaller esc. Thanks!

Q mono would be 6S and a hull that is 40" or less. That is per NAMBA rules.