What ESC for Q Mono oval racing

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  • zooma
    Local club FE racer
    • May 2014
    • 650

    #1

    What ESC for Q Mono oval racing

    I am running 6S2P with TP Power 1650 KV motor and ABC 1815 prop. Have burned up SeaKing 180, MTZ Seal 200, Swordfish 220, and Swordfish 240.

    What are you guys using that works?
    Ron - The Villages, FL

    https://castawaysboatworx.org/
  • StevenBryant
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2012
    • 359

    #2
    Swordfish 220 works well for me


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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    • Fluid
      Fast and Furious
      • Apr 2007
      • 8012

      #3
      The problem is not the ESC. IME the motor Kv is excessive for a racing mono. I raced my Q sport hydro with a 1250 Kv motor and was very competitive. That high Kv TP motor will draw a lot of amps if the boat is set up even slightly wet or the prop is a little too large, which the OP’s experience shows. OTOH he doesn’t give us much to go on...

      Exactly what hull is he running? Exactly what packs? How long are the wires between ESC and packs? Is he using an external cap bank? How many mAhs is he using in a six lap heat? What are the temps on his motor, packs and ESC? How much part throttle does he use in a heat?
      ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

      Comment

      • RaceMechaniX
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Sep 2007
        • 2821

        #4
        Listen to Fluid, that motor is too HOT. You want something around 1100-1250kv. Then go back and run the SF220X.
        You need a 400A ESC to keep up with that motor even with small props.
        Tyler Garrard
        NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
        T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

        Comment

        • zooma
          Local club FE racer
          • May 2014
          • 650

          #5
          OK. I understand the advice, and I'm thinking of going to a TP Power 4070 1090 KV. How does that sound?

          Hull TFL Ariane 2
          Batts Giant Power 6S2P 5000 mah 70C
          Prop ABC 1814-17 or 1815-17
          Wires that came on the motor & ESC
          8mm motor connectors
          Temps warm to the touch, not excessive
          Almost no part throttle
          Nothing smokes, ESC just quits
          Ron - The Villages, FL

          https://castawaysboatworx.org/

          Comment

          • RaceMechaniX
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2007
            • 2821

            #6
            That's a better combination. I assume you are running two 5000 packs and not 2500's. 10-12,0000 is pretty typical for a Q mono.
            Does the ESC quit and die or quit and come back? If it pauses and come back you are likely thermalling the ESC or hitting a low voltage cut-off limit.
            I suggest adjusting your timing to 5Deg and setting your LVC to 3.2-3.5V/cell.
            Tyler Garrard
            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

            Comment

            • zooma
              Local club FE racer
              • May 2014
              • 650

              #7
              Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
              That's a better combination. I assume you are running two 5000 packs and not 2500's. 10-12,0000 is pretty typical for a Q mono.
              Does the ESC quit and die or quit and come back? If it pauses and come back you are likely thermalling the ESC or hitting a low voltage cut-off limit.
              I suggest adjusting your timing to 5Deg and setting your LVC to 3.2-3.5V/cell.
              Yes two 5000s. I set LVC at 2.8 volts. It's not brownouts.

              ESCs are either dying in a race, or being dead the next time I power-up. No heat, no smoke, but often a faint burnt electronics smell.

              I am not trying find a motor that will run on cheap ESCs. I want the boat to be competitive in Q class, and trying to find out what the successful racers are using.

              Last year I was running this boat with a Leopard 4092 1480 KV with up to an Octura x450 prop. The ESC logs showed average amps of 150 or so. I was always running second place to a guy with the same boat and a TP 4070 1650KV motor and SF 240 ESC, so I copied that. He is not having problems, even with bigger props than me.
              Ron - The Villages, FL

              https://castawaysboatworx.org/

              Comment

              • jaike5
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2011
                • 561

                #8
                Competitive and cheeeep don’t go well together... just say’n!!
                Cheers, Jay.

                Comment

                • RaceMechaniX
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 2821

                  #9
                  Unfortunately there are not a lot of good 6S ESC's. A converted Castle Creations ICE or EDGE 200 or a SF300 are your best choices from what's currently available today and not too expensive.
                  If you were running 2-pole motors, you could consider an MGM 28026. However that ESC does not work well with 4-pole motors like the TP's and Neu's.
                  It sounds like there is a some significant difference in your set-up that's causing higher current. i.e. the boat is running wet or your driveline is not free. Pictures of your set-up would help.
                  Other things to consider:
                  -Is the ESC getting wet?
                  -Are you battery and motor connections tight?
                  -Using good connectors?
                  -Wires are not too long?
                  -How is your cooling routed? In parallel or series?
                  Tyler Garrard
                  NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                  T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                  Comment

                  • HTVboats
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 803

                    #10
                    Tyler,
                    Maybe I have a one off exception but my MGM 28026 has been working well on my 1415,1512 and 1515 Castles in P boats and presently with a 4060 TP 3y 2100kv in my P mono. I believe I have the P-16 delay set at 1.0 while MGM tech says it should be higher. It does delay coming to full throttle and at times during launch it seem to cog but goes away at speed. The 25035's work for me also but some local guys hate them. Just a side bar I sent two 25035's in for repairs and they told me they were not repairable due to water damage which was funny as I paid extra for full water proofing. Needless to say I am not replacing them when they don't back their product in my opinion.
                    Mic

                    Mic Halbrehder
                    IMPBA 8656
                    NAMBA 1414

                    Comment

                    • RaceMechaniX
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Sep 2007
                      • 2821

                      #11
                      Hello Mic,
                      Yeah there are a couple known exceptions. The Castle motors seem to work pretty good. I have a 1717 and a 28026 which run quite happy together. Wye (Y's) seems to work better than D's with the MGM's. Although I completely demagnetized a Neu 2215 1.5Y in 30 seconds with a 40063, while I can run a Castle 2028 with the same 40063 all day long in the same boat with the same set-up. Both are Wye winds and very similar, but polar opposite results.

                      On your 25035's did you get the water proof or water resistant option? The later is just conformal coating and works decently, but it not 100%. The water proof one is fully potted with epoxy and should not fail due to water.
                      Tyler Garrard
                      NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                      T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                      Comment

                      • fweasel
                        master of some
                        • Jul 2016
                        • 4281

                        #12
                        I ran a 25035 last season with a TP motor in my Genesis. It performed well. I have the fully potted version, hard to imagine those could be damaged by water.
                        Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

                        Comment

                        • HTVboats
                          Senior Member
                          • Jun 2011
                          • 803

                          #13
                          I paid the extra for fully water proof which my 28026 has also and has been submerged and still lives. Maybe I didn't get what I thought I was paying for? I did run Castle 1520's with no issues on the 25035's. Back to the original question on what is out there for 6S. If anyone would consider making a "limited" class for "Q", say a 40X74mm max, you would have performance with reasonable cost. I think numbers would grow similar to the P limited classes. Jumping into full P or Q requires an investment in ESC's. A limited Q would give racers an option to run quite a bit faster than P/limited with larger hulls at reasonable cost.
                          Mic

                          Mic Halbrehder
                          IMPBA 8656
                          NAMBA 1414

                          Comment

                          • RaceMechaniX
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Sep 2007
                            • 2821

                            #14
                            Personally I am against another limited class for many reasons which was aired out in another thread. I don't want to reopen that discussion.
                            From my perspective it is not difficult to build a low cost reasonable Q boat. It does take a lot of testing and finding good combinations, but the same is true for all the P-limited boats out there.
                            A Castle 1717 and ICE 200 converted make a very good combination for mono's, sport hydro, cat's and hydro's. It's hard to get much cheaper than that.
                            Tyler Garrard
                            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                            Comment

                            • zooma
                              Local club FE racer
                              • May 2014
                              • 650

                              #15
                              I don't think I could make my own water cooling strips/tubes. What about the cooling plates that are in the OSE store.
                              Ron - The Villages, FL

                              https://castawaysboatworx.org/

                              Comment

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