flier 400 amps

[Fluid]

Donhuff when I read that your two ESCs failed with the same motor (a used one to boot) I remembered ESC failures I have had. About twelve years ago I overheated a Hacker XL motor (over 190* on the can) but put it in the motor box and thought little of it. A year later I put it in an oval cat and after three laps the ESC (a Hacker) burst into flames. It was a well-used ex-SAW ESC so I thought little of it. A few months later the same boat/motor combo blew a proven Castle Barracuda. This was all with round cells. It finally dawned on me that the motor was the only thing common to both failures and was likely the cause of the ESC failures.

More recently I was setting up a SAW hydro in a new hull and just wanted a moderate setup to start to trim the hull. A brand new Castle ICE, a brand new Neu 1527, brand new packs. Less than twenty seconds after leaving the beach (no WOT) the ESC blew. Darn, I thought the setup was moderate. Cleaned up the boat and used a different motor to set some records. A year later, same thing with that new 1527 - 20 seconds and another roasted ESC. Yep, bad motor.

Moral to the story, the ESCs may have been taken out by the motor. Bad magnets will raise the effective Kv and reduce efficiency substantially, with the expected result. A shorted wind can do the same. Or, the ESCs could have been bad. Food for thought.


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[ray schrauwen]

Handled it like a Champ yet again for 16S3P today! Video is just the first half of the run.
]

Have you been able to calculate your amp draw? Not many of us run 2 pole motors and Lehner is the only one to make a motor 2 poles worth while.

I'm just guessing that at that high voltage your amp draw is fairly reasonable for that esc. Do you think all would be same if the motor was swapped out for a TP of similar specs? It's harder to commutate a 6 pole motor compared to a 2 pole.

I would love to see another esc manufacturer on the market with reliability equal or higher than what we have to choose from now.

[donhuff]

Thanks for the advise Fluid. But there were two different motors involved. I know in all my "story telling" it probably got lost. But I started with the 1440 then switched to the 2080 and blew the first one. Changed to the second esc and got the record. Swapped the motor back to the 1440 and blew the second esc. The damage might have been done to the second esc by the second motor since the second esc did not make it but a 1/4 lap with the third motor. GOOD GRIEF... this is getting like a six way love affair on a tv soap opera!

We wondered about something like that cause at a race a couple weekends ago, we were trying to race the new Q boat in open offshore with the 1440, and it was getting hot no matter what we tried for a prop, until we got itty bitty with it. So little that the gas boats were out accelerating me at the start. And I was on the line, in lane one, at the sound of the buzzer! I should have been at buoy one looking back and sticking my tongue out and saying "nah nanny boo boo"! But that little prop slipped so bad they got the jump on me and I had to back out of it to dodge boats and the tidal wave that churns up at turn one/first lap. It eventually hooked up and I was able to catch them, but I really wanted that hole shot that the FEs usually have, to get me out front in the "clean water".

So when I got home I checked for shorted windings and found that there was a circuit between the leads and the stator stack.

Then I got out all of my 4070s and checked them and found that the one I have been running in my P was the same way. It broke the 1/3 and 1/4 mile record twice before! This don't sound rite at all! The 2080 that got the Q record was fine, and remember it is the one that blew the ESCs.

So as carefully as I could, unlaced the 1440 with the short only to find NOTHING at all, the spot must have been tiny. In talking with Smock, he sez long as there is just the one "naked" spot shorted to the stack, it'll be ok. But a second one on a different lead and we WILL have some smoke.

Odd thing too since you mention weakened magnets. That 1440 checked out at 1611 kv with my checker. And the other used 1440 one checked at 1604 HUMMMM. That 2080 checked at about 2160. I need to check a brand new motor and see what it does. I know all my AQ 2030s check at around 1920-1980.

[ray schrauwen]

Wow, thanks. I'll check out my 4070 1250kv motor to see if there are shorts. I can guarantee it's KV is way more than 1250.

[ray schrauwen]

Neu and TP rate their magnets to be good up to 180F. Too bad Scorpion doesn't make this size motors. Theirs are rated much higher, supposedly....

I'm waiting to see the IS-3445 -2200kv in my mailbox. Really interested to see what others have already bought out of stock from Scorpion. Something must be good????

Should be here soon.

[Ken Haines]

outerlimits,

Thanks. I like making a story out of it cause most of the time on the forums the reading is either boring or a bunch of B---itching. I left out a lot of the story cause I am a one finger typer, and it takes me forever to do a message.

I wish I had stayed a couple more days and just hung out and helped, I had my room rented for the next four days. But with no more ESCs in the spare box except for a couple of turnigy 120As, I figured I might as well head home. I also had a bad cold and couldn't hardly work on stuff for wiping snot off my nose constantly. Martin Truex showed up the day after I left. I would have enjoyed watching him turning 7.5 second laps!!!!!!

Everyone thinks money is the only reason he does so well but that is far from the truth. He shows up in a chevy pu with a camper shell on the back, builds his boats, builds his motors, and understands how to adjust trim, and can drive them hydros like they are slot cars. I just hope he never gets tired of hydros, and buys a mono!

Hi Don, Very very interesting reading, thanks for taking the time.
I had been wondering about those Fliers after some claims that had been made by some of my club members.
Looks again like the high quality ones still come with the higher price tags, like the MGM's.
My Schulze's have held up well but always keeping an eye on these new products. Doug is right, Castle's of the past were very good....They are still my go to P-Ltd Esc, hopefully we some new marine products from them soon. I have not actually been able to find Joe Ford's post but have been told that they are looking at the Marine market again. Congrats again on the Q-Mono 2-lap record :)
See you soon in Atlanta,
Ken & Fede

[Fluid]

Ken: post #61
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post682763

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[Ken Haines]

Ken: post #61
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post682763

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Thanks Jay

[donhuff]

Thanks Ken.
I bet when you left me at Blue Lake, you figured that I was wasting my time trying to set a record didn't you. And I have to agree with you, I didn't think so either, as I was driving poorly for sure. I'm always like that at a race to begin with. I finally got settled down and then BOOM!!!! And my nerves were shot again! I really did not want to go down there by myself, read that (without a DRIVER) but no one else from our club could make it. FE guru Smock was busy, cool and calm Brad Schafer is always working now days, and my son "Lane one or nothing" Lamar, were all busy and couldn't help me. They left it to the old man to do it all by himself. I think with just a little more tuning to motor kv and the esc, we can bring that number way down. With Lamar at the wheel I feel safe saying that 1.5 to 2 seconds should come off easily, I just have to keep it running. The hull needs nothing as it is stable as a rock with a sense able driver in command.

Congrats on your N and S hydro records.

[Doug Smock]

"Pop" Huff doesn't give himself enough credit.

[Moonie]

I got a 400. It's in a 45" mono that does 63 mph on race trim. How do I change the timing?

[Lone-Wolf]

Your esc's should have come with the "USB Linker", this attaches between the esc and your computer. Simply download the programming software and driver in the link below, hook up a 4S pack to the esc and plug it all together and you're good to go, pretty easy.

Download the USB driver here (second from the bottom)

Here's the instructions

[Moonie]

[QUOTE=Lone-Wolf;687642]Your esc's should have come with the "USB Linker", this attaches between the esc and your computer. Simply download the programming software and driver in the link below, hook up a 4S pack to the esc and plug it all together and you're good to go, pretty easy.

Download the USB driver here (second from the bottom)

I did t know that was the only way. Is the timmig preset to 0? Thank you.

[Lone-Wolf]

Page 3 of the instructions I linked above state 0 degree's of timing as the preset.

Page 5 and 6 of the instructions explain how to program without the USB linker.

Maybe take a moment and read the instructions ;-)

[Moonie]

Page 3 of the instructions I linked above state 0 degree's of timing as the preset.

Page 5 and 6 of the instructions explain how to program without the USB linker.

Maybe take a moment and read the instructions ;-)

I don't have any instructionsr. Why do you think I'm asking you for? I'm not a fool I know to read instructions first. You sound like my dad