I wouldn't do that, it just guarantees that you are buying from a pack builder that is lying/misleading about their C rating. Buy from a trusted maker that isn't tied to any factory so is free to pick and choose the best cells at the moment, buy what others with similar setups are using and happy with, or do your research and traul through RCGroups for battery graphs, and pick the best.
Blew my Raider 150 and SK180. What now?
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Right now the revo graphenes in 70c are proving to be a good choice. I've had good feed back from everyone I've talked to. I have a bunch of them but haven't had a chance to run boats in a while so I can't say how things are from a longevity standpoint but I can tell you they are a very high power battery and priced VERY well. You can get them here in the ose store cheaper than you can direct. If there's something special you need that ose stocks then you can check out the Singapore store (the USA store barely carries anything) and don't be afraid to order from Singapore, they arrive in 5 business days like clockwork. You can also get Steve at ose to order you whatever your looking for. Stay away from maxxamps. Do not waste your money on that over rated garbage. Venom isn't too bad but they are over priced and I've had a lot of failures out of them. Pulse is pretty decent. Spc racing are good batteries too. But without sounding like a fan boy, I'd prefer revo over any other ones because they perform better, the price is awesome and if you have a problem (I've had LOTS of batteries so it's no surprise to have a failure from time to time with hot setups) they take care of their customers.32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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Paul makes some good points, but buying 60C packs from a reputable supplier certainly does not guarantee that the supplier is lying! Some excellent packs have over 100C ratings and are very high performers - but those are internally paralleled.
I would not put too much value on most of the so-called "battery tests", even those with fancy graphs. Few are scientifically sound, even if the tester is trying to be. The problem lies in the sample size used. This is particularly important given the known distribution of quality packs and lots from any manufacturer - the larger the sample size the better. With just one to two packs from each supplier, and those usually from the same lot, you simply cannot say that brand R is better than brand T. You may get one pack from R which is at the low end of the quality distribution, and you may get one from T which represents the high end of the known distribution. The result of such a limited test may be that T outperforms R by 15%, so most readers will go out and buy T. But if the sample size is larger and from different lots (just like the packs you would actually buy) the results could be that R is 5% better than T.
I guess that one could say that these tests are better than nothing, but again I would not take them as gospel....because they are not. If R, T and D are at the top of the list performance-wise and pretty close together, then you might be safe in assuming that one of them is the best. Ditto for the bottom packs. Just take care not to put too much faith in the graphical data alone. The feedback from actual users (the more the better) will help identify the worst brands. But they may not identify the best for your needs. Bottom line - it is a crap shoot where you can only reduce the chances of getting bad packs. Don't fool yourself.
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Thanks for all the help guys, as usual. My new esc and cooling fans should be in tomorrow. Can't wait to get everything installed and rip up the water this weekend. Gotta get it in while I can. Lakes freeze in November in WPAComment
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Sometimes our lakes freeze early like in November, other times like last year they weren't frozen until January it seemed. Its a crap shoot depending on how mild it is. I'll run mine until I literally can't LolComment
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image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgInstalled my new ETTI 220a esc. Finished refining the way I set up the electronics and cooling. Added a bec for my receiver and hard wired power to my bilge pumps (one in each side of the hull and installed a fan to blow air on the esc. All powered by a 3s 1600 mah battery in the bow.
I know my water lines are a bit excessive. Two lines merge to feed the motor water jacket. 1 line splits to feed the motor mount cooling foward and aft. Two lines split to feed the four coolant tubes on the esc. A third line slits to feed two esc cooling plates installed under the cooling fan. These six lines merge to flow out the four exhaust pipes in the transom.Comment
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Wow, that's a lot of plumbing. Can you rotate your water jacket so the rear water outlet is at the 12 o'clock position and then connected to one of your hull outlets? I would then plumb the lower barb at the front of the jacket as the water inlet. That method will ensure there's no trapped air and that the motor sees as much water surface area as possible.Last edited by fweasel; 11-03-2016, 11:01 PM.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
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Using Ys in a cooling system is a bad idea, one side usually gets more flow than the other. Use a single line this way:
- run from pickup to ESC
- run to mount cooler
- run to bottom of jacket
- run overboard
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South eastern Wisconsin. On a side note, what size soldering iron are you using? I picked up an etti cap bank and can't seem to get the circuit board hot enough. My 60watt I've had forever has never let me down, now I got this cap bank to install I think it has met its match.Last edited by Mxkid261; 11-04-2016, 11:37 AM.Comment
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The only way the flow splits perfectly even is if the friction loss in both directions are equal. Really tough to do since there is more to it than just lineal inches. As the tubing bends it creates more friction. If one is bent in a tighter radius or something the friction is a little different.Noisy personComment
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