Is this the V3? That bulge on the power lines is notorious for giving trouble, I have not opened them to see, but I understand on the 180A ESC V3, there is also diode in there, anyway, these V3s seemed to be more fragile than the V2s, I can't see the extend to the damage it sustained and whether it's only limited to this bulge. You can take it off and put a cap bank on it, however, looking at it I am a bit concerned as to whether the FETS also sustained harm.
I know for a fact that Travis (kfxguy) took the factory bulge away on the 180A V3 and put extra caps on it and it worked fine.
What is your set up? Do you know why it was running hot?
Yes its a V3. The caps all look fine (no bulge). The esc seems to still work on the bench. It got hot by user error, super thick FE Nat's water, limited testing time. Wasn't sure if i needed the (little black thingy) or just some new caps.
Is this the V3? That bulge on the power lines is notorious for giving trouble, I have not opened them to see, but I understand on the 180A ESC V3, there is also diode in there, anyway, these V3s seemed to be more fragile than the V2s, I can't see the extend to the damage it sustained and whether it's only limited to this bulge. You can take it off and put a cap bank on it, however, looking at it I am a bit concerned as to whether the FETS also sustained harm.
I know for a fact that Travis (kfxguy) took the factory bulge away on the 180A V3 and put extra caps on it and it worked fine.
What is your set up? Do you know why it was running hot?
I have a pile (somewhere lol) of those junk caps on the power wire. Every seaking 180 I use gets those removed and a real cap bank installed.
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was
can you post a pic of how you install a new cap bank..and if you know jim..his setups are spot on...it was weird how bad the water was at nats..we have been pondering how to do a new cap bank..what products to use..any help would be appreciated
I just install one cap, maybe like a 35v 1k for Ltd use - we're maybe yanking 90A -100A with slightly higher spikes (like when a Legg turtle gets in the prop)
I solder in line thusly - (this T-120 has been beat on for years & has three or so records under its belt
and is currently being used to chase Ray around the course)
Same thing happened to my 180A V3! It must've cooked the FETS or something internal, cause I tried new caps with no luck. I regret not adding a healthy cap bank right away! I run the T-180 V3 now and it comes with a nice cap bank, no issues so far.
I can't understand why they didn't do it right for the V3, the V2 was bullet proof. Let us know your thoughts after more time running. I like to know if the Turnigy labeled one really will hold up for the long run.
Thanks.
Guys..it wasn't the cooling block..it was the caps..so if I were to cut off the inline ones..how should the be replaced..and should more or bigger be added?? Again..This was the inline caps on the positive and negative power wires..not the ones actually on the dpeedo block
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