A Little Disappointed with the T-180 v3 water inlet/outlet setup

[properchopper]

I've used dozens of the v1 & v2 T-180's for FE30 P-Sport builds. They hold up, are fairly water resistant, and with a little modding of the water inlets & outlets they could be narrowed with 90 deg. fittings to squeeze the batteries in alongside for proper cg. :

DSC04201.JPGDSC04248-1.JPG

When I saw pictures of the v3 I was happy to think that there now can be a less fiddly (yes I watch Top Gear) mod to keep the waterlines tucked in. I was disappointed when I saw this :

DSC06208.JPGDSC06211.JPG

While it looked from the pictures that there was three possible water paths to give some configuration options, the caps (kinda tiny and no extra caps like v2) block 2 of the three possible flow-through channels. In fact to get the return line back towards the motor I'll have to change the output straight barb fitting to a 90 deg and that won't tuck in too nicely .Going to be tough to use on riggers & OPC's too...

edit : spoke too soon ; this bump on the inputs contains 2 caps

DSC06214.JPG

[tlandauer]

Tony, that was my feeling as well. I remember vividly when I first saw the pictures ( months ago) I dreamed about adding a loop thinking all that is needed was to loop a return from either the cap side or the motor wires side ...until I got one and realized the caps are blocking the side...
Your solution for the V1 and V2 was so elegant, I am sure you will come up just as a fabulous solution for this one , I can't wait to see!

[properchopper]

Tim,

I'm more than a little p.o.'d. For years I used the T-180 v1 & v2's and always dreamed of the day when it was re-designed/updated to be more installation friendly, cancelling the need to mod the water paths, at least in my case. It always seemed silly to have the wires and water paths at 90 degrees from each other although it wasn't a big problem for many applications unlike mine. Now it's seen a re-design and it still seems like the designers have never built a boat.I'll go as far as to say this shouldn't be a problem for many build config's so my whining could be seen as somewhat selfish, but

[ray schrauwen]

You could do like what was done to V1 & V2. You could block off the other holes after drilling through the inner walls creating a cooling block that holds more water.

BTW, how do we know if it needs more cooling anyway?

[properchopper]

You could do like what was done to V1 & V2. You could block off the other holes after drilling through the inner walls creating a cooling block that holds more water.

BTW, how do we know if it needs more cooling anyway?

Ray,

I didn't say that it needs more cooling; I'm just commenting on the clumsiness of re-directing the cooling output back 180 degrees towards the motor (which will be necessary if the ESC is in front of the motor as is indicated in many setups).

What seems a little odd to me is that the cooling block design went to the lengths to provide three possible coolant paths, then ended up blocking off two as if the ESC was designed by two separate teams that didn't communicate with each other.

For example with these config's the cooling lines can go in and out in front of the motor

DSC06216.JPG


Another cooling line design "head scratcher"

DSC06217.JPG

[olwarbirds]

Supposedly !! the difference between the v2 & v3 besides the obvious, is that they are using a different material for the heatsink. This again "supposedly" draws the heat faster from the fets etc.. and this part of whats accounting for the higher burst amp 1,000a..I'm with Tony on the fact that apparently the designers have never built an rc boat and dont realize the difficulties some of their designs create...Regardless of this issue I still think that Hobbywing builds one of the better quality bang for your $ esc's available to us...wish they would do a hv 200a version.... DJ

[Chilli]

Come on MacGyver, If anyone can come up with a solution, you can..

[properchopper]

Come on MacGyver, If anyone can come up with a solution, you can..

Mike,

If it was a one-off for my own use I might put some time into it but for day-to-day customer builds I need to keep it simple, time-wise. My initial thought, which is simple to do is to replace the front straight barb with a 90 deg. It'll point up which is at least half of the re-direct towards the motor jacket in back. I'll be starting this build in a few days & I'll see what works & post.

[properchopper]

Come on MacGyver, If anyone can come up with a solution, you can..

OK I'll accept the challenge

This was almost too easy (but thanks for motivating me :)

Not only will it redirect the flow back towards the motor but likely adds more distribution of cooling. Thermal paste or more probably some JB to help the thermal transfer will be added.

DSC06222.JPG DSC06221.JPG

Casting all modesty aside, I give this one the coveted FIVE CHEESEBURGER rating for simplicity and creativity.

[ron1950]

knew you could do it tony

[properchopper]

knew you could do it tony

Thanks Bro

[kendt]

Ray,

I didn't say that it needs more cooling; I'm just commenting on the clumsiness of re-directing the cooling output back 180 degrees towards the motor (which will be necessary if the ESC is in front of the motor as is indicated in many setups).

What seems a little odd to me is that the cooling block design went to the lengths to provide three possible coolant paths, then ended up blocking off two as if the ESC was designed by two separate teams that didn't communicate with each other.

For example with these config's the cooling lines can go in and out in front of the motor

[ATTACH=CONFIG]124397[/ATTACH]


Another cooling line design "head scratcher"

[ATTACH=CONFIG]124398[/ATTACH]

Have you tried that ztw 160a unit. Ive been curios about them for a while now.

[properchopper]

Have you tried that ztw 160a unit. Ive been curios about them for a while now.

I ran the 140A unit in my P-Ltd Cat with an AQ 2030. Motor & ESC died during a race. Not sure which one took out the other (was using auto-timing btw)

I've run the 160 in my P-Ltd Cat SAW Drifter but not too much. The timing hinge points were a little off from my preference (it has auto-timing setting also) so I pulled it out, put in a T-120 (and set a new record)

Mark F had a higher rated unit; it let the smoke out.

I need more test/tune with the 160 before I'll venture an opinion.

The 140 makes sense for a Ltd ESC, the 160 seems a little underpowered for a P-Class (4S2P rigs) so ??

[3-UP]

Great idea, is there enough meat in between to run a drill bit down through instead of crushing the tube to fit in between the fins?

[TheShaughnessy]

Replace brass tubbing with copper or silver