Parallel Adapter Question

[R2315]

Hi all,

So I'm making a new parallel adapter and I am thinking maybe I got this wrong. I soldered the two wires together like this:

20170922_155629.jpg

Do you guys think the draw from each battery would be uneven given one wire will be straight into the bullet and the other attached from the side? or will it pull equal current? that connection is filled solid with solder. let me know

Thanks!

[srislash]

This is going to be battery to two ESC's? Or this is two batteries to one ESC?

[R2315]

Two batteries into one esc, finished looks like this:
20170922_202455.jpg

Thanks,

[CraigP]

Hi all,

So I'm making a new parallel adapter and I am thinking maybe I got this wrong. I soldered the two wires together like this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]153913[/ATTACH]

Do you guys think the draw from each battery would be uneven given one wire will be straight into the bullet and the other attached from the side? or will it pull equal current? that connection is filled solid with solder. let me know

Thanks!

Each connection should be a mirror image to the other. Yes, the current will flow slightly different in that type of branch. These are freaking hard cables to build guys!

[R2315]

Thanks Craig, if I did it this way do you guys think it would make any difference:
s-l300.jpg

[srislash]

The one side that is soldered to the existing 'could' flow less juice but I think if you wire wrap before solder it should be ok. I always watch my parallel setups anyway. I just try to pay attention to which battery got pulled down more(if any).

I was taught to braid wires together to join but with 265 strand wire it's hard

[R2315]

Okay thanks, I did wire wrap it once so I'm going to leave it for now and keep an eye on things, worst case I'll cut the esc side off and redo it the other way, but ya it's tedious so hopefully this works out.

[srislash]

Okay thanks, I did wire wrap it once so I'm going to leave it for now and keep an eye on things, worst case I'll cut the esc side of and redo it the other way, but ya it's tedious so hopefully this works out.

This is one of the things left to do on HPR. I want to sport run 6-7s4p. Parallel connection location and configuration will be crucial.

[CraigP]

Thanks Craig, if I did it this way do you guys think it would make any difference:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153934[/ATTACH]

Parallel branch connections should follow strict current sharing rules. The parallel side should be two wire sizes below the main branch. For example, 2 #10's on the right, soldered side by side, both tinned completely before joining. Use flux! Hold that connection in a vise when cooled, re-apply flux the the end, then solder a pre-tinned #8 wire in exactly the middle of the joint of the 2 #10's, in a end-to-end connection. Flux should be used each time the connection is allowed to cool. Need a solder chisel tip of at least 3/16 -1/4" wide, using at least 60-80 watts. Tinning is the key, must be consistent and similar each time. Cold solder joints will always cause issues.

[CraigP]

Thanks Craig, if I did it this way do you guys think it would make any difference:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153934[/ATTACH]

Parallel branch connections should follow strict current sharing rules. The parallel side should be two wire sizes below the main branch. For example, 2 #10's on the right, soldered side by side, both tinned completely before joining. Use flux! Hold that connection in a vise when cooled, re-apply flux the the end, then solder a pre-tinned #8 wire in exactly the middle of the joint of the 2 #10's, in a end-to-end connection. Flux should be used each time the connection is allowed to cool. Need a solder chisel tip of at least 3/16 -1/4" wide, using at least 60-80 watts. Tinning is the key, must be consistent and similar each time. Cold solder joints will always cause issues.

[CraigP]

Thanks Craig, if I did it this way do you guys think it would make any difference:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153934[/ATTACH]

Parallel branch connections should follow strict current sharing rules. The parallel side should be two wire sizes below the main branch. For example, 2 #10's on the right, soldered side by side, both tinned completely before joining. Use flux! Hold that connection in a vise when cooled, re-apply flux to the end, then solder a pre-tinned #8 wire in exactly the middle of the joint of the 2 #10's, in a end-to-end connection. Flux should be used each time the connection is allowed to cool. Need a solder chisel tip of at least 3/16 -1/4" wide, using at least 60-80 watts. Tinning is the key, must be consistent and similar each time. Cold solder joints will always cause issues. Sorry guys, no fans while you're soldering!

[srislash]

Okay thanks, I did wire wrap it once so I'm going to leave it for now and keep an eye on things, worst case I'll cut the esc side of and redo it the other way, but ya it's tedious so hopefully this works out.

This is one of the things left to do on HPR. I want to sport run 6-7s4p. Parallel connection location and configuration will be crucial.

It is a bit to figure out

[CraigP]

You bet it is Shawn! It's a big job!

[CraigP]

Now I know where these redundant posts are coming from, the site freezes up!

[srislash]

Parallel branch connections should follow strict current sharing rules. The parallel side should be two wire sizes below the main branch. For example, 2 #10's on the right, soldered side by side, both tinned completely before joining. Use flux! Hold that connection in a vise when cooled, re-apply flux to the end, then solder a pre-tinned #8 wire in exactly the middle of the joint of the 2 #10's, in a end-to-end connection. Flux should be used each time the connection is allowed to cool. Need a solder chisel tip of at least 3/16 -1/4" wide, using at least 60-80 watts. Tinning is the key, must be consistent and similar each time. Cold solder joints will always cause issues. Sorry guys, no fans while you're soldering!

This actually seems a simple task, at least for the experienced. Silver content solder beneficial as always?