Can and will shorter wires reduce temperature of the batteries?

[boilo56]

Like the title is saying, can and will shorter wires from ESC-to-batteries will lower temps on my batteries? The boat is a Pursuit, 2200 kv motor, t180a esc, 2x2s(4s) zippy 5000mah 40c, batteries. the temp are around 130-140*F. I am not very comfortable with those temps. So i was thinking of shortening the ESC wires in order to reduce resistance. would it be an efficient way to reduce the temps?

Thank you for helping saving my poor little batteries!

[Luck as a Constant]

Well it should help, but you would have to take a decent amount of wire away to see any drastic reduction in temps.
Good bullets and a good solder job are the best way.
Running too long increases temps.


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[kfxguy]

What battery connectors are you using? I've seen higher battery temps from battery connectors that aren't up to the task.

[boilo56]

Well it should help, but you would have to take a decent amount of wire away to see any drastic reduction in temps.
Good bullets and a good solder job are the best way.
Running too long increases temps.


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By decent amount, can 3" fit in "decent amont"?

[srislash]

You really have to take the whole system into consideration. If connectors aren't QUITE adequate, if wires are too long, if there are not enough amperage on tap, if timing is not optimal, and on and on. Any of these will help, when everything is perfect it is a real happy boat.
Optimizing the wire length is a very good start and is good for the ESC. It cuts down on voltage ripple which is real hard on them if severe, cap banks help here.

Sorry if that came off as a lecture but I find it an ongoing project of small improvements.

[boilo56]

What battery connectors are you using? I've seen higher battery temps from battery connectors that aren't up to the task.

I am using 5.5mm bullet connectors. I thought it was enough to support the amp demand. The solder is this one: IMG_20150711_222242.jpg

[srislash]

I run 5.5's on my motor side and 6.5's on battery side. No issues so far on any of mine.
There is a rule of wire length, I think it was 8" in total battery side( this is 4" on pos and 4" on neg). This is of course 'in a perfect world'

[boilo56]

You really have to take the whole system into consideration. If connectors aren't QUITE adequate, if wires are too long, if there are not enough amperage on tap, if timing is not optimal, and on and on. Any of these will help, when everything is perfect it is a real happy boat.
Optimizing the wire length is a very good start and is good for the ESC. It cuts down on voltage ripple which is real hard on them if severe, cap banks help here.

Sorry if that came off as a lecture but I find it an ongoing project of small improvements.

Don't worry about the lecture thing, i'm still learning everything about everything in the rc boat world! You are speaking of cap banks, are the Turnigy marine 180 amps ESC have enough?

[boilo56]

I run 5.5's on my motor side and 6.5's on battery side. No issues so far on any of mine.
There is a rule of wire length, I think it was 8" in total battery side( this is 4" on pos and 4" on neg). This is of course 'in a perfect world'

I'm on 5.5 on each sides, and the ESC-to motor wires are also hot enough to melt the hatch floating material(150*F.+/-). Should i shorten that side too? I think i can easily cut 2" on the esc/motor side.

[tlandauer]

I run everything with 5.5mm bullets, it may not be the best setup, but on a 4s2p setups with a 2200kv motor, my temp is nowhere that high. Other issues could be playing a hand here. In addition to the wires being too long may be, running too long can exponentially raise temperature. The set up of the stinger/strut, prop, etc. IMO a 2200kv motor in this boat deserves 2p set up, the batteries will be much happier and so is everything else.
Just my $..02!

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[srislash]

I run everything with 5.5mm bullets, it may not be the best setup, but on a 4s2p setups with a 2200kv motor, my temp is nowhere that high. Other issues could be playing a hand here. In addition to the wires being too long may be, running too long can exponentially raise temperature. The set up of the stinger/strut, prop, etc. IMO a 2200kv motor in this boat deserves 2p set up, the batteries will be much happier and so is everything else.
Just my $..02!

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Totally agree with Tim here. I try to run 2p where possible. As I stated earlier it is also important to have adequate amperage on tap.
So which motor? Where is timing on ESC at? If a D wind then timing should be at the lowest. If a Y wind it should be 15 degrees.

[boilo56]

Totally agree with Tim here. I try to run 2p where possible. As I stated earlier it is also important to have adequate amperage on tap.
So which motor? Where is timing on ESC at? If a D wind then timing should be at the lowest. If a Y wind it should be 15 degrees.

The motor is aquastar 2200kv 2.5D .the timing is at the lowest, 3.75 a think. I run 2x2s serie for 4s total. it would be at bit challenging to fit 4 2s batts in there!

[Jamey]

Hey Boilo56,
What are your battery voltages after your done with a run? I have been running mine down to exactly the storage voltage, like around 3.80 to 3.85 volts per cell. For mine that is right at 4 minutes. Towards the end of a run lipos seem to get exponentially warmer the lower the voltage gets. I personally would try timing your runs. Maybe start at 2 minutes and go up 1 minute at a time until you reach your desired threshold. If the time is too short and you have exhausted all the other options like moving cog back and raising the strut you don't really have a choice but to drop prop size in my opinion.

[boilo56]

My runs are usually around 2:47 to 3:30 minutes. I also end the run around 3.7/3.8v per cell. and my battreies are getting pretty hot at the end of a normal to hard run.

[Jamey]

What prop is that with?