Which battery is better/safer in a boat? I've swelled a few lipo hard case batteries while running my Ul-1. Also which case is better? Soft pack or hard case and why?
Which battery is better/safer in a boat? I've swelled a few lipo hard case batteries while running my Ul-1. Also which case is better? Soft pack or hard case and why?
Thank you for any help.
Soft pack is the way to go, hard pack is know to have issue---heat build up and moisture trapped---just to mention a few.
I have never used Nano-tech. Some people really like them, some don't.
How long are you running your boat? What is the temp reading on your batteries after you bring her in? Actually what is the temp on the motor and ESC?
I only run the boat 2-4 minutes, I have 4 brand new Turnigy 5200mah 2 cell lipos, they have a C- rating of 30-40. I have only run the boat 3 times and now I have a batteries with a full charge of 7.1v. The other 3 batteries show a full charge at 8.4v. I purchased the batteries just for this boat.
My temps are 120* on the battery, 130* on the esc and motor. The esc is new, today was the first time it's powered the boat. The esc is the 90amp from HK, the motor is used and what came in the boat when I got it.
I looked on HK's site and found some 6600mah nano-tech batteries @65 -120 C, they list it as a " boat battery" Is there such a thing????
There is no true 120 C discharge rate batteries. Some of this is just hype. Your 30-40 maybe really is too low for this kind of low cost batteries. If this is a high end brand, then the claimed discharge rate could be trusted. I suspect when they say 30-40 when it is really 20 or 25 in which case the boat is too demanding and your batteries are not keeping up with the boat.
120* on the batteries is a bit too warm for me, I have rarely exceeded 115*.
The one that has a full charge of 7.1 may have a bad cell. Do you have a battery analyzer which can give you individual cell reading?
I know lots have used the Nanos & had failures in some way ie bad puffing, splitting open whilst puffed, very high IR, catching fire,excessive voltage drops,dead cells etc. I know many prefer either the Blue Turnigy packs or the Zippys over the Nanos, the new Turnigy A Spec Nanos 65c are suppose to be good though.
Yes the nano-tech work good for me,
I use the cheap 30c / 40c blue turnigy in all of my boats with no problems as long as you do not over run them down to low.
Can you post some pictures of the boat setup and video's of your boat running ?
Also what prop is on it ?
I'm not sure if the OP knows that "nano-tech" batteries are LiPos, they are just another brand sold by HobbyKing. They are a price-point product, meaning they were designed to cost a certain amount. Performance then depends on limited quality. Club members have had decent luck with them in lower powered RTR boats, but eventually they failed in high powered setups. Plus a percentage are bad out of the box. These can be the costs of the low price.
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I have the 3s version but havnt used them yet, I know @ the recent FE world championships in Belgium their were some competitors using these batteries. I don't think at this level of racing they would use them if they wernt good, these very packs are the same packs as the Scorpion Competition packs made for them by Haiyin. Scorpion arnt the type of company that would have rubbish made for them, the A Spec version are around 30% cheaper.
If you do decide to go with this pack the spec say 5.5 connectors, they are not 5.5 but Etti 3.5 low resistance connectors which are more difficult to obtain depending where you are. Dosnt matter if you intend on changing connectors anyway.
Yes the nano-tech work good for me,
I use the cheap 30c / 40c blue turnigy in all of my boats with no problems as long as you do not over run them down to low.
Can you post some pictures of the boat setup and video's of your boat running ?
Also what prop is on it ?
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