Long battery wires

**dogg** · 01-14-2013, 06:45 AM

If you cannot do anything to reduce the lengths of the cables, I would source some automotive cable (resistant to vibration) at around twice the thickness of the original batt/esc and motor cables to do these length runs of cable.
The problems that arise are due to too high resistance in the cable, exacerbated by heating of the cables during use...

By doubling the diameter of the cable, it effectively halves the voltage drop resultant at the motor when compared to the standard cable.

The weak points are of course the sections of cable that are not upgraded, however they will be no worse than if you ran them standard (as supplied) in a boat without these length issues.

The best type of connection regarding voltage drop is soldering, so if possible and you are not using the batteries in another application, you could simply solder the extensions directly to the battery leads and obviously use BIG bullet connectors for all connections you do not wish to directly solder.

I hope this helps.

**Fluid** · 01-14-2013, 07:51 AM

I have to disagree with the above. Using larger diameter cable does not address the greatest problem with long power wires - impedance. You can reduce the resistance that way, but it is impedance which leads to damaged controllers - and larger wires do little to solve that problem. You are far better off using 8 gauge silicone wire - which has proven to be "resistant to vibration" in hundreds of builds. Add a cap bank to the controller to handle the voltage spikes you can expect from the long power wires and your ESC should be fine. The better your batteries the less worry you will have.

You should have no problem with the motor wires at 6 inches long. Many (most?) here run theirs at least that long. If you are running a SAW setup or using an outrunner at high rpm then I'd try for shorter wires.

.

**properchopper** · 01-14-2013, 02:14 PM

I just ran into that situation when I didn't take in to consideration the span of wires required to run from the esc in front of the motor (my bad) to the batteries in the sponsons. I used 8 guage, soldered the connections, and used caps (which should be closer to the esc but room was an issue), premium batteries AND the setup is fairly mild. Wrung it out yesterday and all appeared OK (so far)

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**dogg** · 01-15-2013, 01:17 AM

[QUOTE=Fluid;478931]I have to disagree with the above. Using larger diameter cable does not address the greatest problem with long power wires - impedance. You can reduce the resistance that way, but it is impedance which leads to damaged controllers - and larger wires do little to solve that problem. You are far better off using 8 gauge silicone wire - which has proven to be "resistant to vibration" in hundreds of builds. Add a cap bank to the controller to handle the voltage spikes you can expect from the long power wires and your ESC should be fine. The better your batteries the less worry you will have.

You should have no problem with the motor wires at 6 inches long. Many (most?) here run theirs at least that long. If you are running a SAW setup or using an outrunner at high rpm then I'd try for shorter wires.

If these batteries were running A/C and NOT D/C I would agree, but given that they are D/C, impedence is irrelevent. Of course, if there was a need to extend the esc (motor side) cables, I would have to agree....
Still, with 8 gague or similar sized cable (or a doubling of the original cable sizes) I still think that it would be enough to combat the issue.

Here is the Wiki definition/explanation of impedence....
Electrical impedance is the measure of the opposition that a circuit presents to the passage of a current when a voltage is applied. In quantitative terms, it is the complex ratio of the voltage to the current in an alternating current (AC) circuit. Impedance extends the concept of resistance to AC circuits, and possesses both magnitude and phase, unlike resistance, which has only magnitude. When a circuit is driven with direct current (DC), there is no distinction between impedance and resistance; the latter can be thought of as impedance with zero phase angle.

I'm not trying to oppose anyone, but this was my learning and experience as a trdaesman. If there's something I've missed (I'm new to FE) please re-educate me so that I don't make the same mistakes.

I have just made up the parallel battery link in my boat using 8 gague cable (automotive grade silicone for constantly flexing joints such as door openings).

**johnnywall** · 01-15-2013, 04:18 AM

Thx for the replies and advice guys. All this has come about because i bought a 300a Swordfish HV. Its overkill bc the Hydro (37inch) Im gonna run it in will be on 6s with a Neu 1527 1y. I thought it might be fun to rip it on 8s (or maybe 10s for straight!) some time, so i wanted an esc that could handle most any prop or thing I could throw at it. Love the fact that the esc is waterproof, but it is the size of a Mini-cooper and I need to mount it in the back otherwise it looks like 2 3s 3000mah are all I can fit with it mounted up front. Never mounted an esc that far back before and wanted some advice. Also the 300a toaster oven sized esc has 2 sets of batt. plugs of thick gauge wire, I understand these need to be soldered in pairs to a single 5.5 bullet a piece? This is troubling as I am no soldering master(Hate it....worst part of this great hobby! lol) So if any master solder guys want the job...would gladlly pay for it.

**johnnywall** · 01-15-2013, 05:20 PM

l properchopper, I know your a master buider.....dont you want to be known as a solder master as well? lol.....seriously, anybody out there want a soldering job on this? Want it done right and I pay. Love the insane30 by the way proper.....great looking hydro great design! It kinda is the evolutionary link between my H&M Xzess 2 rigger and a traditional hydro....no wonder there so fast!

**MAMBA2200** · 01-15-2013, 05:30 PM

i would be happy to solder it for you you pay for shipping both ways and send it to me and i will be happy to do it for you just send what you want put on it and i will get it put together for you no charge

**properchopper** · 01-15-2013, 05:53 PM

Originally posted by johnnywall

l properchopper, I know your a master buider.....dont you want to be known as a solder master as well? lol.....seriously, anybody out there want a soldering job on this? Want it done right and I pay. Love the insane30 by the way proper.....great looking hydro great design! It kinda is the evolutionary link between my H&M Xzess 2 rigger and a traditional hydro....no wonder there so fast!

I don't mind soldering your stuff for the cost of solder/connectors/return postage; I just got a new soldering rig which does a good job. The CC 240LV v.1 has two motor wires per pole and two battery wires per side as well. For the current you're running it would also do well to go up to bigger connectors. use rcboatbuild@hotmail.com to talk

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**properchopper** · 01-16-2013, 08:19 PM

This darn thread had me laying awake at night worrying that my overlong battery wires would eventually cause the dreaded ripple current monster to rear its' ugly head. So, whipped out the soldering station and shortened the one end some (net shortened length from all four legs was six inches-probably not a big diff but whatever). Even though I hadn't had any issues before, I feel better now. And for the record, I always preferred Ripple Strawberry over Ripple Current

before :

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After :

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**johnnywall** · 01-17-2013, 05:15 AM

Yeah, Im worried about my setup as well. Does adding a capp. bank on the battery wires help a whole lot with the long wire situation?....and are the Etti Capps the way to go? Those always need to be soldered closest to the battery bullets right? (Capp)

**MAMBA2200** · 01-17-2013, 08:42 AM

Yes it does help with the ripple

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**jcald2000** · 01-17-2013, 08:57 AM

No, as close to the esc as you can get them.

**BHChieftain** · 01-17-2013, 10:32 AM

Originally posted by johnnywall

Thx for the replies and advice guys. All this has come about because i bought a 300a Swordfish HV. Its overkill bc the Hydro (37inch) Im gonna run it in will be on 6s with a Neu 1527 1y. I thought it might be fun to rip it on 8s (or maybe 10s for straight!) some time, so i wanted an esc that could handle most any prop or thing I could throw at it. Love the fact that the esc is waterproof, but it is the size of a Mini-cooper and I need to mount it in the back otherwise it looks like 2 3s 3000mah are all I can fit with it mounted up front. Never mounted an esc that far back before and wanted some advice. Also the 300a toaster oven sized esc has 2 sets of batt. plugs of thick gauge wire, I understand these need to be soldered in pairs to a single 5.5 bullet a piece? This is troubling as I am no soldering master(Hate it....worst part of this great hobby! lol) So if any master solder guys want the job...would gladlly pay for it.

The Castle Hydra 240A I used in my syncron also has 2 sets of leads, and yes they need to be bridged together-- I got some good advice on how to do this-- see post #13 in this thread:

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...n-build-newbie

Chief

Long battery wires

Long battery wires

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