High C rating Nano's desoldering my wires.

[maxmekker]

Brushless55:

packs charged today.
3,57-3,45 - in 4008 26 min 4,20 4,20
3,69 3,70 -in 3891 28 min 4,20 4,20
3,60 3,54 - in 3955 27 min 4,17 4,20
3,60 3,58 - in 4011 27 min 4,17 4,20
65-130c pack's 3,70 all over tot in 7224 39 min 4,19 4,19

Rised my lvc

[siberianhusky]

By your RCU posts you have cold solder joints, the pics you posted there are of some very bad, dull looking grainy solder joints.
I know you don't believe me but you can't solder!

[maxmekker]

Short video

[Cooper]

Sorry but I agree with the bad solder joint. Practice and keep the tip clean and tinned, it doesn't take much but practice. I also like the nano packs, mainly for the money, but the c rating is not accurate. Inflated a bit but still offers pretty high ratings. Most of my nanosecond have a very very low resistance which is directly related to the ability to discharge at said rate. I really wish hobby king would use bigger wire 10 gauge or even 8 for there 65 +discharge. From an electricians point of view passing 65+amps through 12 guagge wire is like making your own heat tape. And I do like the ec5's. Don't have to worry about arcing or mixing polarity. But I switched all my batteries to 8mm connectors for ease of use. Most of the time I'm running saw boats with high amps so 8mm I went. I have recorded 250+ amps through ec5's but those are for two passes at most three. And yes wires are hot very hot. Also I agree to go with 3% silver solder to up the m.t. In short ec5 good to a point then 8mm and nanotec batts good but wish heavier wiring. And try to keep wireing as short as possible as it only makes more resistance.

[JrValente]

When I solder the bullets I heat the bullet cup first and bring it up to temp to melt solder then start filling with solder. Looks like you are mainly heating the solder to temp and not heating the workpiece well enough. Now when I solder the wire into the bullet, I get my bullet to temp and then heat my tinned wire to temp then touch the bullet one more time then drop wire in with iron in bullet and remove iron. If the wire is pretty cool and the bullet isnt much over melting temp, the wire will draw heat from bullet resulting in a weak joint between the two. I run my Hakko at 800* (bit hot) but I can get bullets to keep heat a bit better while trying to solder the wire into it.

[maxmekker]

thanks valente. I keep the solder tip long enought to the bullet to heat it and the wire before connecting the two, but I must have done a poor job off heating up the bullet before. I use a weller @ 450.

4 packs today. 3 45-90 and one 65-130 Temps on the plugg were 63-65c after about 3 min run. Lipos were in the 50+ . Prop , octura 640/642. No problem with the solder comming off today. ( new serial with ordinary solder+silver 2% )

Only thing is the boat seem's to be slow, ore at least not as fast ore light in the water as my friends Mystic with the same setup. The rpm sound of my 2150 kv seems lower compared to my friends 2150.Everything spins free and temps shows it's not working overtime. Have to explore more to find out.

[de-pro]

I had same problem with the EC5 connectors combined with T180 and leo 2200kv motor in the Impulse. Everytime I used a slightly bigger prop, the series connector desoldered. Amp draw and heat has alot to do with it since I never lost any connections on my lower draw RC offroad trucks. I went with HK 6mm bullets and the problem went away. As far as as tight connections of the HK 6mm connectors, just use a vicegrip and squeeze the male end slightly. It will work like a charm.