My Phil Thomas Super Sport 21

[Raydee]

When I painted my SS45 I filled the holes with the spackling paste and when I layed the first coat of primer down I put it on to thick and it ate the spackling paste. I had to re-spackle the hull all over again. The second time I put the primer on nice and thin and let it dry between coats and it worked great. I was actually going to use Light weight "Icing" finishing putty But when you sand that stuff with sand paper you can actually create more pin holes so I will be using the spackling paste again on my SS21. One of these days I will get off my lazy butt and put my SS21 together.

[detox]

Keith, will you be supporting the motor on the endbell? it seems to me that this is a pretty
heavy motor to be lose in the hull w/o some support...

Yes, I plan to use a nylon tie wrap at the endbell also.

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[Ub Hauled]

Yes, I plan to use a nylon tie wrap at the endbell also.

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I meant support from the bottom... where the motor can rest on....

[detox]

I meant support from the bottom... where the motor can rest on....

Yes the endbell will be supported and tie wrapped to keep it secure. I will either use 1/4" plywood or G10 to make the support.

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[detox]

When I painted my SS45 I filled the holes with the spackling paste and when I layed the first coat of primer down I put it on to thick and it ate the spackling paste.

Raydee, The evaporation rate of your reducer (solvent) was probably too slow for the temps you sprayed at. Using a faster drying reducer or spraying in warmer conditions should have prevented that problem.


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[detox]

.098" G10 ride pads tacked in place ...AOA will not be changed. Steering linkage and rudder installed. Noodle foam installed. Next I have to fabricate the engine cradle.

[detox]

Aquacraft Grimracer rubber drain plug (part # LXMNK88) is installed just like UL-1.

[detox]

Virginia Craftsman turnfin installed using recomended 1/4" spacers purchased @ HomeDepot. UL-1 boat stand works verywell with this hull.

[Jimmy Sterling]

Like the idea of the plug to ensure no water is sitting in the sponsons, thinking of doing the same to mine.

[detox]

Keith, will you be supporting the motor on the endbell? it seems to me that this is a pretty
heavy motor to be lose in the hull w/o some support...

Here's the support for end bell that i made using .125" G10 fiberglass. I scuffed paint then epoxied pad to hull. Nylon Ty-Rap is also used to support end bell.

[LuckyDuc]

That paint job looks incredible Detox! Wanna paint a Whip 20 for me?

[detox]

Thanks, but that expensive automotive paint can be a bitch to use and clean up. If I ever paint another hull I will use regular rattle can Krylon primer and paint. Then clear coating over the Krylon using automotive clear.

BTW... good luck with your Whiplash.


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[LuckyDuc]

Yeah. I've been debating whether to pay someone to do a really nice automotive paint job on mine vs. the rattle can. Seeing how it is being used for heat racing, I think I will go the rattle can route. I figure it will be much easier to touch up any racing scars.

[detox]

For kicks Im going to try Castles air cooled MMM controller, Nue 1515 1.5y (1500 kvmotor), and 6s1p Lipo (two 3s packs in series). ESC is programed to radio and works perfectly so far. Now I need to decide where to mount the ESC...in front or behind the motor?

[detox]

This is the esc location I decided on. I will first use the Octura m440 prop. Hull weighs 6 3/4 lbs ready to run.