Delta 29" copy build -help needed!

[FastVee]

It is a small world Douggie!

Yes , I am Finnish.

Been in USA once myself.

I visited the States in -91 .2 weeks in Florida.(clocest to Canada I have ever been)

[FastVee]

Brod, good call on the cooling bits.

Looks like they fit! -not too much room thought.

Is the scuff bend ok?

If I glue this on, I cant never open the lower motor mount bolts.
The motor can be changed, but the mount cant be parted out.

So what to do... Higher mounted motor and the bolts can be removed or lower mounted and it is permanent.

[M.M.]

I would have to say just keep the mount the way it was designed.

[CornelP]

If you will ever want to upgrade and fit a bigger motor... no space. Keep the original.
BTW: your new prop is ok, just needs to be sharpened.... and move the rudder so it fits...

[Brod]

I would keep the mount as stock too,a little height on the motor will make very little differance.
Also front,back or middle motor placement matters neither,providing cofg is about right and you can move the batts. forward or back about 2" either way to adjust when it has its maiden.
I move mine a bit to compensate when the waters calm or rough.
just make sure there is enough room for the rudder servo if you place the packs at the rear.
a few pics of my 2 ,as you see the 29",motor forward.33"one,, motor roughly in the middle,both run similar.
Brod..

[Scott T]

FastVee,

Looks like you're on the right track. In those pictures where you're showing the CG with your finger, was the hardware on? You'll need all the hardware, servo, RX etc in the places you think they'll go if you're setting up the motor and cells to get the right CG.

You could run the motor in the high or low position you've shown, probably won't make much difference. If you're worried about not being able to access your mount screws in the future, Loctite them in well. I can't access the lower bolts in my DF33 motor mount, and it's no concern.

Oh, and leave about 10mm between the motor coupler and the stuffing tube. One of your photos shows the coupler almost inside the tube.

Cheers,
Scott

[FastVee]

Motor is in!

24h epoxy so it shoud hold well.

(just installed, so I can still move it if needed -hurry with your suggestions :) )

[Doby]

Might be a bit late on this,,, but did you clean the inside of the hull and then rough it up with some fairly coarse sandpaper before applying the epoxy? Sometimes there can be residue and a smooth surface that will hinder the epoxy from curing and adhering properly.

[FastVee]

Good call Doby.

Yes I did scuff it a bit with some 180grit and cleaned it after sanding with denatt.alchohol.


I have never used this brand epoxy(hot racing), so will see how it holds -it is slow cure so it should be fine.

I also installed the scuff tube

[ghostofpf1]

I also installed the scuff tube

Not to be a nitpicker but for as long as I've been here it's called a "Stuffing tube"

Steve

[FastVee]

Not to be a nitpicker but for as long as I've been here it's called a "Stuffing tube"

Steve

Really? I have been told it is scuffing tube!

-but I trust you, so lets say it is stuffing tube then!

[ksm2001]

Looking Good

Ken

[bustitup]

Yep. I did some de-anodicing and polishing to them thought. -and changed the 3mm stainless bolts to 4mm acid proof ones.

what process did you use to deanodize?

[FastVee]

what process did you use to deanodize?

Some powder/crystal drain cleaner(the working bit is Sodium hydroxide) and warm water.
When the alloy parts are added the water starts to boil and smoke(chemical reaction), really fun to look , but smell/vapors are dangerous, -so kids, dont try this at home! And if you must, do it outdoors.

[FastVee]

Servo mount installed.

I just cut the flex, and the solder wont stick on it... Ideas? -cleaned it well and sanded it too.


And should the flex cable have "flex" ? or should the outer windings rotate some around the center shaft ?