Kent's ETTI Oriental Dragon mono build...

[bustitup]

Thanks for the vote of confidence! It will help make the build more enjoyable!

I really like the mini Vortex! Steven is going to have the New RTR version of it soon!! Hmmm...

-Kent

I will trade you my mini vortex for your dragon

[HOTWATER]

Thanks for the offer bustitup, but I think I'm hanging on to that one for now...

-Kent

[sailr]

You will definitely need a lot of weight on the flood chamber side to make it work right.

[HOTWATER]

Do you have one of these? I will be putting my Etti ESC AND my 2S2P 3300 RCLipos on that side of the hull...should be no problem!!

-Kent

[sailr]

I don't have that boat but I have others including a Tenshock Mono 1, H&M no step II, Tenshock Mini-ECO, and a prototype I'm working on. They all seem to need a LOT of weight on the port side to get them to flip right. Some people have opened up the holes in the deck to get them to flip quickly.

[HOTWATER]

I don't have that boat but I have others including a Tenshock Mono 1, H&M no step II, Tenshock Mini-ECO, and a prototype I'm working on. They all seem to need a LOT of weight on the port side to get them to flip right. Some people have opened up the holes in the deck to get them to flip quickly.

sailr, there will be some small holes drilled in the deck as well as a few towards the bow on the side and underneath (drilled into the flood chamber, of course!)...the hole in the transom will be opened up also...

thanks!

-Kent

[sailr]

Keep us posted as to how it goes!

[BHChieftain]

I have a toysport syncron with a flood chamber-- did not need to add extra weight, but I did need to both both batteries on the flood chamber side of the hull (one standing on edge velcro'd right to the flood chamber, the other up in the nose on the left-slide floor).

I also have a tenshock mono1, and I needed to add some lead weight to get it to roll over (used servo tape, holds it well).

I absolutely love the flood chamber monos-- allows you really to push the edge (read: compensate for my crappy driving...)

Chief

[CornelP]

Chief is right, for most flood chambers you need the batteries velcro'd to the wall, if possible. As foe holes, instead of drilling the bottom, I took an idea from Jan (pompebled on RCG): drill a hole through the opposite side of the boat to the flood chamber and through the chamber wall, epoxy a piece of 4-6mm tube and you get the air out faster...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15235856&postcount=222

[electric]

Looking forward to getting a report on how well this boat works. I have been thinking about buying these as SV replacements and just dropping the guts of an SV into these hulls.

[j.m.]

Move your motor farther forward and place your batt farther aft up against the flood chamber wall.

You can duct tape everything in place and seal the hatch to see if it will actually roll over before you permanently mount anything. The hole in the transome definitely needs opening as you said you would. Also, holes in the deck won't do anything since the boat will be upside down when the air needs to escape. The holes need to be on the bottom outside edge of the hull in the forward part of the flood chamber to allow air to escape and water to enter the chamber.


Jon

[electric]

Move your motor farther forward and place your batt farther aft up against the flood chamber wall.

You can duct tape everything in place and seal the hatch to see if it will actually roll over before you permanently mount anything. The hole in the transome definitely needs opening as you said you would. Also, holes in the deck won't do anything since the boat will be upside down when the air needs to escape. The holes need to be on the bottom outside edge of the hull in the forward part of the flood chamber to allow air to escape and water to enter the chamber.


Jon

Agreed. That is what I did with my Triton. Push the motor forward then you can get the batt agains the wall and snug the second batt against the shaft. This gets the weight "shifted" towards the flood chamber side.