Darin's 32" WildThing P-Mono Repaint

[Darin Jordan]

I get by with the electrical tape instead of the other really aggressive tapes.

Hope this makes sense.

Yup... I usually try to make the tape-off areas of my paint jobs white, and I then use either "Duck" brand electrical tape, or recently I found that at Frye's (local BIG electronics store...) they sell and "extreme temp" electrical tape... it's CHEAP... about $1.40 a roll or something like that... it comes in colors... I get white... it holds on well in water and in colder temps, but doesn't get all gummy when it's warm. Flexible, and doesn't seem to hurt the paint...

One type of clear that I almost always use is the Duplicolor Clear Top Coat. It's SUPER glossy, and dries really hard. Makes the paint POP and doesn't seem to be affected by tape too much... as long as the base is solid...

The only paper towels I used was to wipe up after the wet-sanding, and to lay inside the hull to keep overspray from getting in there... I spread the epoxy and worked it in with a couple of Bondo Spreaders and then an older Verizon Rebate card... Hmmm... still has $0.41 on it...

[sailr]

I use the color electrical tape from Home Depot. I use a lot of white myself. Pricier than what you found though. The clear electrical tape at Walmart is only $1.69 a roll as I recall. Wish we had a Frye's here. I love that place!!

I tried the Duplicolor Clear (rattle can) and it didn't hold up for me. I think what's under it is what makes the difference.

Earlier post talks about nitro guys using paper towels to apply epoxy. That's what I'm not understanding....what's the process? fold it up and use like a brush? Use it to soak up excess? etc? Seems like that would leave a lot of paper fiber in the finish.

[sailr]

Yeah, would like more details on that. Seems the paper towel would leave a lot of fibers, etc. in the finish? OR, maybe they brush it on and then lay paper towel on it to soak up the excess? Hmmmmm? That's my question.

A couple of steps back -- I think! If I followed it right the suggestion was to use paper towels to apply the thinned Epoxy! Not sure though!

[Darin Jordan]

OK... Well... I'm finally finished!

Here is what I ended up doing...

I wet sanded the final coat of white primer with 600, then dried well and tack-clothed.

Then two coats of Krylon White paint, no sanding in between, but paying VERY close attention to the "flash" time (thanks for the tip)...

I let this dry for two days, then raced the boat on Sunday (June 28th) in the plain white. Held up perfectly to the tape and the finish was UBBER smooth! This is probably the smoothest paint job I've ever done.

Well, on Monday I lightly wet-sanded it with 600 again, then cleaned it up and masked it off for the color.

I started with the black stripe and, wouldn't you know it... it KRINKLED! UGGGH!

Luckily for me, I had used the REALLY good (and $$$) profesional striping tape, so the rest of the areas were protected. I carefully scrapped off the still wet krinkled paint and got it stripped down without damaging the surrounding paint or tape.

I let it sit overnight, then sanded it carefully, reprimmed, and shot on the black (metalic black, actually)... worked fine this time. Still don't know why it happened. It was Duplicolor Metalic Black over Krylon white. Done it a ton with fine results... Even the final silver color on the hull is Duplicolor over Krylon white... I'll figure this out one of these days...

Anyhow, I let that dry, then taped it off and shot on three coats of Duplicolor Silver paint. Let all that dry for 24-hours.

I then wet-sanded it with 1500-grit, shot on two coats of Duplicolor Clear Top Coat and let that dry. I wet-sanded that with 1500, put on the decals last night, then wiped it down and put two final coats of Clear over that...

It FINALLY turned out GREAT! It's REALLY SHINY, and super smooth... I can see now the benefits of the wet-sanding between final coats... I LOVE IT!

I left the original hatch colors... too much work to repaint that, and I think it looks OK anyhow...

It's dry to the touch now, but I sat it outside on the back deck, since it's going to be in the mid 80s today and it'll get a good baking out there... plus won't fumigate the house with off-gasses!

This has been a real pain in the a$$.... I'm hoping I have this figured out finally and can have more success on the next one...

[AZpdljumper]

As always an inspiration to all builders.

[Brushless55]

Looks Great!

[trepanned23]

I just love great paint jobs. Very nice work. I know what you mean . . . I try very hard to never mix brands of paint. For some reason a Krylon top coat over a Rust o leum primer for example, is asking for trouble. As well, I never mix - say - two coats of Eastwood clear underneath 1 coat of Duplicolor clear. I try to keep one brand of paint for the entire build. Difficult though,

[mmarionz]

very nice

[LiPo Power]

This boat looks sick....
Spectrum looks very good on it.... and it rocks....
Never mind the boat....

[sailr]

Darin,
As I recall, the metallic black duplicolor is lacquer. It may say acrylic enamel on the can but the solvents in it attack normal enamels. The Krylon is enamel. Rule number one...never try to put lacquer over enamel. The laquer will krinkle the enamel. You can do it if you very very lightly mist several coats, letting the lacquer to cook off a bit between coats. If you load it on, it will wrinkle up the enamel every time. The solvents in lacquer attack enamel.

Nice Job! Great looking boat!

[Darin Jordan]

Darin,
As I recall, the metallic black duplicolor is lacquer. It may say acrylic enamel on the can but the solvents in it attack normal enamels. The Krylon is enamel.

That's interesting... I thought that Krylon was a laquer. It used to be... Maybe that's what's going on is that this newer version of Krylon has changed formulation??

I haven't EVERY had any issues spraying Duplicolor Laquers over Krylon before. It's only been this past round.

Interesting note as well.... I recently had Krylon Krinkle ITSELF! Same CAN of paint... I sprayed the piece, let it dry for 24-hours, then decided to put on another coat... KRINKLE! WEIRD!

I'm paying MUCH more attention to "flash" times now and I think I'm getting back into the groove... Just wait until you see the P-Spec Hydro pictures I'll post later! I stripped it back down completely to the glass and started over... Turned out GREAT!

[sailr]

I'm old school. My 'nose' tells me what is in most paints. Lacquer has a very distinct smell. I've used Krylon for years and don't recall ever detecting that smell. Maybe my old school system doesn't work anymore. Krylon definitely has taluoene in it which is a fast 'dryer'. But for the most part the way you can tell an actual lacquer from an enamel is that lacquer dries to its full set very quickly. You can usually wet sand lacquer within an hour or two while enamels have to 'cure' , usually 24 hours before you sand them. Another way is that since enamel takes longer to dry, it will flow out and gloss a lot better than lacquers. To get a true high gloss out of lacquer, you have to wet sand and polish. The duplicolor lacquers have a bit of 'slow' reducer in them to get a little better gloss. But that also means the solvent in it takes longer to flash off and gives it time to attack a vulnerable paint beneath it, such as enamel.

I really don't know if there has been any reformulation of Krylon. I know Krylon doesn't list on its label either way...lacquer or enamel which is kinda strange to be sure. I have a bunch of the duplicolor rattle cans. They are usually marked lacquer somewhere. I just avoid using them over enamel. Duplicolor has some enamels also, usually in larger cans, but a very small selection of colors. I wouldn't put duplicolor lacquer over duplicolor enamel either.

Your experience has to be very frustrating for you! I know it would be for me! When you get "krinkle" you have to let that cure a long time before you can sand it because the lacquer you put on top dries and cures quickly and prevents the enamel it has attacked below it from curing because the solvents can't escape through the cured lacquer. Trying to sand it usually ends up in it coming off in chunks of the soft material underneath. Why Krylon krinkled Krylon is a real mystery too. Crazy.

The two-part base-clear paints are definitely the best but the cost has gone ballistic on them and you have to have special reducers and hardeners depending on dry time you desire, which also controls gloss. You need different reducers and hardeners depending on ambient temperature, humidity, etc. You have to have a HUGE investment in paints and reducers if you want more than one or two colors in your paint shed!

I won't bore you with this much longer! Promise. My son is a professional guitar refinisher. Different guitars require different materials but mostly they are lots and lots of coats of clear lacquer and then wet sanding, coat again, wet sand, coat again, etc. He also uses some two-part materials. He's told me the pricing of some of the automotive materials and Zowee! Like $60-80/quart. If you have a touchup gun (I've never had luck painting large areas with an airbrush), and judisciously estimate how much paint you will need without running out mid job, then a quart will go a long ways.

Anyway! GREAT JOB. BEAUTIFUL BOAT!!!! Can't wait to see the P-Spec Hydro.

As a footnote, we all need to find a friendly car painter who has a bunch of paint in stock and convince 'em to paint our boats for us....Cheap! (good luck with that) haha. If you can catch him when he's painting a car the color you want, he can just lay some paint on your boat at the same time.

That's interesting... I thought that Krylon was a laquer. It used to be... Maybe that's what's going on is that this newer version of Krylon has changed formulation??

I haven't EVERY had any issues spraying Duplicolor Laquers over Krylon before. It's only been this past round.

Interesting note as well.... I recently had Krylon Krinkle ITSELF! Same CAN of paint... I sprayed the piece, let it dry for 24-hours, then decided to put on another coat... KRINKLE! WEIRD!

I'm paying MUCH more attention to "flash" times now and I think I'm getting back into the groove... Just wait until you see the P-Spec Hydro pictures I'll post later! I stripped it back down completely to the glass and started over... Turned out GREAT!