My plan is for this one to be 30" long but we shall see once it is skinned and the nose is tipped with hardwood.
I have the ability to add a flood chamber as marked below and would like to hear if it will do the job of righting the hull.
I know that most flood chambers run further forward but I have chosen to make the hull water tight from amidships-forward, with the exception of the battery tunnel that gives me the ability to move a 4S pack to alter the Cg of the boat.
My Plan
9xl on 4S
440 prop for starters and upwards from there.
I have the ability to add a flood chamber as marked below and would like to hear if it will do the job of righting the hull.
I know that most flood chambers run further forward but I have chosen to make the hull water tight from amidships-forward, with the exception of the battery tunnel that gives me the ability to move a 4S pack to alter the Cg of the boat.
My Plan
9xl on 4S
440 prop for starters and upwards from there.


so the moral of the story is : Run a dry boat... the cause of my leak was a pinhole in the water cooling tube, I now use a electric nitro pump to pressure test the cooling system LOL

), which had 12 cells and 700s in them which would sink the boats further down in the water, this will most likely sit higher up on the water? So after all that my suggestion is to make the opening as close to the deck as possible. Try not to leave a lip, what i did was reinforce the whole area by bending a single stainless steel bike spoke to fit round the opening, from the bottom, up the side and round the top. Then i glued this in. Spokes are cheap, bout a $1 each. Or free for a broken one
They also make GREAT pushrods.
Comment