Mhz mystic 114 build

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The C-AFK uses a hybrid cloth, of carbon with aramid (Kevlar) as it's main reinforcement. The CFK is all carbon. They use a glass layer into their gelcoat first.

Avoiding the big jobs still. Here are some lube-hose plugs I made Sunday:

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And, I met the owner of the boat. Painted her hair, and will try to do the rest of the face. She told me she will be driving the boat, but I don't know who will be the Throttle-man...

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[PlayerUnknown069]

The C-AFK uses a hybrid cloth, of carbon with aramid (Kevlar) as it's main reinforcement. The CFK is all carbon. They use a glass layer into their gelcoat first.

Avoiding the big jobs still. Here are some lube-hose plugs I made Sunday:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]178762[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]178763[/ATTACH]

And, I met the owner of the boat. Painted her hair, and will try to do the rest of the face. She told me she will be driving the boat, but I don't know who will be the Throttle-man...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]178764[/ATTACH]

Damn now I kinda wish I went with C-AFK over the CFK just for the kevlar weave. My boat says FedEx label created on Friday but package has not been received by fedex. I have no patience.

Man those plugs look good, you glued a hose barb to them? I want to make some.

she is an independent woman and does not need a throttle man. She can do it all lol but if you insist I think she would prefer a throttle woman lol

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kevlar is out-dated. No need for abrasion-resistance in the main reinforcing layer. As for bullet-proofing...nope. Once treated so resin will stick to it, no more stopping bullets. Hard to sand etc. Shock absorption cand be done with the resin percentage. You made a good a good choice with the carbon. I only chose the kev, for the astetics, but that changed...

Yup. Barb fittings glued into carbon tube.

Notice she'll add to the boat's bouyancy, with her ample "floatation". :)

[PlayerUnknown069]

So my Mystic has been stuck in customs clearance at my local fedex facility since Friday. Package went out for delivery on Friday and went right back to clearance in progress. Now come Monday we are back to clearance in progress. FedEx says MHZ in Germany needs to provide a toxicity report and some kind composition details.

I dont get it, the boat cleared US customs when it landed in Tennessee. What a rollercoasters of emotions. I ordered the boat in December.

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Beauracracy. Too much of soft power abuse.

[PlayerUnknown069]

Beauracracy. Too much of soft power abuse.

I hope they dont think my boat is made out of cocaine. They are going to drill it full of holes for some nose sampling .

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Rear motor mounts

Made some wee compression molds, and cooked up the straps to attach to the lowers. The lowers will be bonded in place in the near future.

Check'em:

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Continued:

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[PlayerUnknown069]

Those turned out great!

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The first in the mold was 12-layers. Too thick, couldn't compress. #2 @ 10-layers was better, but also in the garbage. Your looking at #3 & #4. 8-layers worked out.

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Engine intake scoops

While undertaking a bigger part of the construction; the hull/deck seam-reinforcer, I'm mucking with some scale details:

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[Dirk Jan]

Awesome carbon work, Thank you for sharing!

What weight or thickness weave did you use for these intakes in the last post? They seem quite small, and I know from experience that carbon weave is difficult to lay in such small parts.

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6oz. 3k standard weave. 2-layer.

I used the tacky resin method to mush the cloth into the mould. Mix up some epoxy resin, let it cure to around what honey is, and smear it into the mold, ( so it won't seperate on the waxy surface). A little longer with the curing, then mash the cloth into it. Let dry while now and then mushing it down with yer finger. Then wet out and let that tacky-up for the following layer. There will be a few cosmetic issures in the surface, which will be remedied with prep work and clearcoating.

If I was to produce them, I would make compression molds, so as ther is no cosmetic re-finishing to do.

I've been eyeing up your laser-cut tunnel hull kit. Possibly my next boat...

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The left one is ready for trimming, then a base will be put on like the pipes, and then clear-coated.

After joining, I scrub the part with a stiff wire brush, to open all the pinholes in the surface. Then resin-fill those pinholes, sand them down, and smear a coat of resin over the the whole thing. That is then 400-gritted, ready for paint.

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And then the right one...