Delta Force Vortex 34

[paDDY]

Hi gang, the wife surprised me with a DF Vortex 34 for our anniversary. Couple questions-Does the hull need to be reinforced with carbon fiber inlay? I have a few motor/esc options at home available. TP 4060 1650KV, TP 4060 1950KV, TP4070 1700KV. I also have a seaking 180, ztw 200, and raider 150 esc's available. I really don't know much about the hydro's as I really like catamarans and have not really looked into them much. Any detailed build threads available?

[Bande1]

so thats a P class hull its supposed to be 4s. Ive heard that it likes to lift off the water if you run it above 60mph. IDK though. I wouldnt lay in CF personally unless you just really want to. If the ZTW is the new seal G2 id run that. second would be the raider. if you run 6s use the 1650kv if you want to run 4s run the 1950kv.

[sammyha]

That's one heck of an anniversary present! Somebody pretty good at gifting...

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[ray schrauwen]

It's a very nice hull. You are very lucky!

Deltaforce hulls don't really need an inlay unless you plan on trying to go nuts with power. I say use what you have.

[Panther6834]

I know Bande1, essentially, already answered your "what should I use" question...but, just thought I'd share Steve's 6S recommendation from the OSE store:

Leopard 4082 1600kv motor
ZTW 200 ESC
No recommended/suggested prop


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Bande1]

6s prop (in stock now)
- ABC 1714-17-45
- ABC 1814-17-45
- CNC brass 4016
- Octura M445
- Prather S220

4s prop
- ABC 1914-17-45
- ABC 1717-17-45
- CNC brass 4416
- Octura M545
- Prather S225
- Octura X448
- ABC H-6

[ray schrauwen]

You can also use the 1814 on the 4S setup.

[paDDY]

Thanks for the replies and recommendations on the props, guys. I don't plan on going crazy with it, so I think I will hold off on the inlay. I am leaning on going with the ZTW 200 and the TP 1650 on 6s. I should be getting a delivery of running gear today from OSE so I will start the build this week.

[paDDY]

I got started on the boat yesterday and have most of it done. I'm going to place an order with OSE for some props, stuffing tube, and some other things. One of them being a turn fin. Can you guys suggest a turn fin? If it matters this boat will be run on 6s.

IMG_6297 (1).jpg

[Bande1]

sport 20 option

https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=moj-fins

[paDDY]

sport 20 option
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...?prod=moj-fins

Thanks Bande1!

[paDDY]

Ready for a water test tomorrow! I picked up an ABC 1714-17-45, ABC 1814-17-45 and Octura M445. I need to balance and sharpen them. For now, I threw an osc 44mm cnc high rake.


IMG_6419.jpg

IMG_6418.jpg

[Bande1]

good job on it. One thing though is a long rudder push rod like that can tend to deflect under stress. if you have some understeer on your test you will have to move the servo back or get thicker rod.

[paDDY]

Thanks, Bandel1. I have seen a build thread somewhere where a brass sleeve was used to stiffen or help prevent flex of the steering rod. I wanted to keep the wight forward as I heard the boat like to take flight. I will probably try and do the sleeve but I am not sure exactly how it is supported.

[Bande1]

you can use 6-32 rod. you should be able to balance it even if you move the servo back. The boat has to be balanced you cant just put everything forward as much as possible. You want the balance point somewhere around the middle to the rear of the turn fin. the turn fin is the pivot point of the hull and holds it to the water in a corner. Too much forward weight and the boat will dive under water from a start. youd have to have a 2nd person throw it in the water while holding the throttle open. like gas/nitro guys.

set the strut height at the center line of the strut, the props hub, to the same height as the sponsons from the keel. set the angle of the strut to 0 degrees, even with the transom. set the turn fin angle 1-2 degrees rearward compared to the keel. so looking at the top line of the turn fin where the bolts are, set the front part downward a little. you want the backside upward. leaving the tun fin even with the keel causes it to lift in a corner. it runs "loose." as you give it positive angle it grabs and sticks to the water more.

finally you want tow out on a turn fin. Use a few strips of hatch tape on the rear side of the turn fin between the fin and the bracket so that it points outward ever so slightly. this causes pre-load on the fin, helps it track straight, and helps the corner entry be smoother as the fin isnt being lashed inward in the straight then outward under cornering.