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Hello Hydro Builders. Going to start another boat build as I'm having sellers remorse (4 yrs. later) about selling my 1/8 Scale Winston Eagle. It will be more of a custom build in my mind. But would like some advice or thoughts about what would be OK to change and what might not be a good idea. Thoughts are widening the air trap by 1", making it 10" wide. Moving the front deck nose 1 to 1-1/2" back, adding a canard up front and possibly not installing the wing so it takes on the looks of more like a Sport 40 instead of a Scale Hydroplane. Thoughts about widening Air Trap, moving the nose back and adding the canard up front are my concerns. Do you think the changes I'd like to do will hinder the performance of the boat?? Let me have it!!!
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Are you going with the 1/8 again? If so perhaps an adjustable canard. If you pack more air in it may cause issues but perhaps with the canard for compensation...
Shawn -
No, this boat is considered 1/10 scale I believe. I'm going to make the canard adjustable for sure. Fixed adjustable, not on a servo. I searched threads about this boat and one guy posted a list of what he would do differently and he mentioned making the air trap minimum 10" wide. I would assume for more stability?Comment
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Thanks for chiming in srislash!! I appreciate it!! I just saw the plans for this boat today and the sponson ride pads were very generic for that time period. Do have any input as far as that? Maybe some kind of modification to those. The Winston Eagle (1994) I built had a couple steps to them.Comment
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I am kinda new to the hydro game as of late . But have been reading a lot and paying attention. I just modified an old Proboat Miss Bud and painted it in Homestreet livery. I modified those sponsons with a couple degrees dihedral on the inside sponson and a bit more AOA. There were a little aerodynamic changes as well but all was successful.
So dihedral a bit on inside sponson and almost dead flat on the outside sponson. Steps are only useful if the whole surface is running in the water as it creates air under the hull. I would think just the trailing edge of the sponson should be touching the water on a 1/10Comment
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Thought you might be interested in an update. Tacked up framework on an 8-1/2" jig, then fileted the framework. Made jig 10" wide, tacked the sponson sides to jig. Centered Cowl section on forward ply bottom. Tacked everything to it. Added spnson chines and shears. The air trap is now 10" wide and the overall width at sponsons will be 17-1/2". I like it!!Comment
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20230604_202132.jpg20230604_202121.jpg[ATTACH=CONFIG]177120230604_190522.jpg00[/ATTACH]20230604_180939.jpgComment
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Well, for anyone that's watching. Glued on non trip chine and sponson sides and bottom. There's also a photo of about where the motor and batteries will be located. Next step, carbon fiber inlay in the sponsons an[ATTACH=CONFIG]120230609_221918.jpg20230609_221906.jpg20230609_221540.jpg77147[/ATTACH]d non trip chine.Comment
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Looking goodComment
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Thanks!! Got the carbon fiber laid laid down and installed strut and driveline this weekend.20230611_115507.jpg20230611_220621.jpgComment
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All hardware is mounted, stuffing box is epoxyed in and foam floatation done.20230629_212327.jpg20230629_212327.jpg[ATTACH=CONFIG]177339[/AT20230702_104800.jpgTACH]Comment
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Update for anyone following. Foam installed in battery locations and got.the d20230730_181705.jpg20230803_184700.jpgecks on.Comment
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Since this will be a sport 40 version of the AVL. I'm modifying the canopy.20230803_213754.jpg20230803_213821.jpgComment
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