Tweet
DELTA FORCE VORTEX HYDRO BUILD
The Delta Force Vortex Hydro offers a great entry into hydros. It measures 22inx11in and has fiberglass construction. The hull is relatively inexpensive, lightweight, preformed, and is easier to complete and setup relative to many other hydro systems. Since the hull is preformed, you don't have to worry yourself over sponson design or tunnel dynamics. Everything used to complete the Vortex Hydro was bought from OSE. There are many ways to improve performance, even on a preformed hull like the Vortex. Here are some of the major variables in setting up the Vortex Hydro:
DF22 Vortex - Setup Variables to Performance:
1. COG (center of gravity)
2. Strut alignment, angle, and height.
3. Turnfin placement, length, angle, and shape.
4. Prop type and size.
5. Motor
Setup:
Hull: 22inx11in, Delta Force Vortex Hydro. Thin, lightweight fiberglass.
Hardware: Solinger Hydro System, 0.125 Flex Cable with 3/16in prop shaft.
Turnfin: 2inx1.5in, 6-degrees slanted towards hull in thick, angle
Motor: Feigao 8L
Battery: 3S1P/4500/30C Elite LiPo Pack
kv/rpm: 3072kv/34,000rpm
ESC: Castle Hydra 120
Prop: x637
Build
- I mounted my motor and strut about 3/16" to the right in this size hydro to counteract propwalk induced at higher speeds.*
- A 0.125in flex cable should be adequate for 3S.
- The turn fin should extend at least 1.25in below the water line and be about 1.25in wide. I used 1/20in steel sheet with the dimensions of 2.0in(L) by 1.25in(W) and mounted it to the right sponson transom. The fin should be slanted in towards the center of the boat about 5-7 degrees. More than this can cause poor handling.*
- COG is best 1" behind the front sponson for this size hydro.
- To set the alignment of the strut, set the boat flat on a table with the hull bottom parallel with the table top, resting on the sponsons. Don't hold the hull in your hand and eye it. Set the strut bottom resting flat on the table. This is a rough guide but should get you close to the right setting. If the boat is too flighty lower the strut. If the transom drags, angle the strut down at the back by 2 degrees.*
- The pictures shown below were taken right after completion.
Performance:
I started with a x438 prop. The boat ran 49mph after tweaking the strut. I've since been using a x637 prop and running 52mph on smooth water. The strut is positioned at a neutral angle. I'll have to wait for Spring for videos.
Conclusion:
This has been a fun and exciting little build as a first hydro that is capable of decent speed. It's a great smooth water performer. However, I wouldn't run it fast on much chop above 0.75in. After building a mono, then a catamaran, the hydro is the next level in complexity. A specialty of building hydros would be to setup a SAW rigger... The culmination of all the knowledge and experience in this hobby. It is the "Formula One" of RC boats. I must say that there is a big growth curve in learning how to maximize the performance of a hydro design over a mono or a cat. There are masters around, find them and apprentice their knowledge and experience as I have... Many Thanks to "Fluid" (Jay) for his humble generosity in rendering advice and sharing his vast experience.
(*) Advice received from "Fluid"
The Delta Force Vortex Hydro offers a great entry into hydros. It measures 22inx11in and has fiberglass construction. The hull is relatively inexpensive, lightweight, preformed, and is easier to complete and setup relative to many other hydro systems. Since the hull is preformed, you don't have to worry yourself over sponson design or tunnel dynamics. Everything used to complete the Vortex Hydro was bought from OSE. There are many ways to improve performance, even on a preformed hull like the Vortex. Here are some of the major variables in setting up the Vortex Hydro:
DF22 Vortex - Setup Variables to Performance:
1. COG (center of gravity)
2. Strut alignment, angle, and height.
3. Turnfin placement, length, angle, and shape.
4. Prop type and size.
5. Motor
Setup:
Hull: 22inx11in, Delta Force Vortex Hydro. Thin, lightweight fiberglass.
Hardware: Solinger Hydro System, 0.125 Flex Cable with 3/16in prop shaft.
Turnfin: 2inx1.5in, 6-degrees slanted towards hull in thick, angle
Motor: Feigao 8L
Battery: 3S1P/4500/30C Elite LiPo Pack
kv/rpm: 3072kv/34,000rpm
ESC: Castle Hydra 120
Prop: x637
Build
- I mounted my motor and strut about 3/16" to the right in this size hydro to counteract propwalk induced at higher speeds.*
- A 0.125in flex cable should be adequate for 3S.
- The turn fin should extend at least 1.25in below the water line and be about 1.25in wide. I used 1/20in steel sheet with the dimensions of 2.0in(L) by 1.25in(W) and mounted it to the right sponson transom. The fin should be slanted in towards the center of the boat about 5-7 degrees. More than this can cause poor handling.*
- COG is best 1" behind the front sponson for this size hydro.
- To set the alignment of the strut, set the boat flat on a table with the hull bottom parallel with the table top, resting on the sponsons. Don't hold the hull in your hand and eye it. Set the strut bottom resting flat on the table. This is a rough guide but should get you close to the right setting. If the boat is too flighty lower the strut. If the transom drags, angle the strut down at the back by 2 degrees.*
- The pictures shown below were taken right after completion.
Performance:
I started with a x438 prop. The boat ran 49mph after tweaking the strut. I've since been using a x637 prop and running 52mph on smooth water. The strut is positioned at a neutral angle. I'll have to wait for Spring for videos.
Conclusion:
This has been a fun and exciting little build as a first hydro that is capable of decent speed. It's a great smooth water performer. However, I wouldn't run it fast on much chop above 0.75in. After building a mono, then a catamaran, the hydro is the next level in complexity. A specialty of building hydros would be to setup a SAW rigger... The culmination of all the knowledge and experience in this hobby. It is the "Formula One" of RC boats. I must say that there is a big growth curve in learning how to maximize the performance of a hydro design over a mono or a cat. There are masters around, find them and apprentice their knowledge and experience as I have... Many Thanks to "Fluid" (Jay) for his humble generosity in rendering advice and sharing his vast experience.
(*) Advice received from "Fluid"
Comment