New 540 Motor Mount

[ksm2001]

Just starting a build on my DF29 and wanted to post a pic on the new motor mount Peter Zicha built for me. I'll be using a 8xl, 4s1p, Speedmaster hardware and Highmodel 200amp esc. The top plate can hold the esc so it can be removed and as a unit. any sugestions on the build would be appreciated. Thanks
Ken

[Jeff Wohlt]

Damn...that is sick! I am jealous of talent like that.

[Ub Hauled]

I am jealous of tools that can make that!!!

[calcagno45]

Nice piece of hardware there!! Should look great in the boat. Did you adding rails to mount it?

Simply beautiful.....

[ksm2001]

Thanks for the coments on the mount, Peter does some of the best machining I've seen. The Rails came with the hull uninstaled so now that I have the mount I can set them in, the motor mount is 4" wide. I'm just waiting for the 4 trim tabs to get here so I can get the transom hardware on, then can get my cg to place the motor and battery tray. Will send some more pics as the build continues.
Thanks
Ken

[lomdel]

That motor mount is awesome! I assume you incorporated a pressure bearing in the front mount... What size and what pressure bearing did you use? Any chance that this can be modified for a 4,5" stringer spacing?

[ksm2001]

OSE sells the bearings "Product ID: dh-53136 5mm Thrust Bearing". Modifying the motor mount would only mean adding a 1/4"spacer on each side between the rail and mount itself.
Ken

[j.m.]

I would have put my money towards a Neu and used a more traditional mount. I'll bet that custom work cost some $$$$$.

[ksm2001]

Right now our Canadian $ sucks and I had a new 8xl still in the box. I'd love to put a Neu in it but at $300 Canadian I'll have to wait a while.

[Punisher 67]

Thanks for the Kind words guys...........

Actually J.M. me and Ken (Ksm2001) run boats together with a few other guys , that mount would cost the average Joe $50.00 since it takes 3.0+ from start to finish to machine it . like anything else you get what you pay for , this one costed Ken a 26oz bottle of Crown Royal . I designed that with putting the motor as low into the hull as possible and trying to make it look as good as possible , some guys will hodge podge a boat together without a care in the world and other pay great attention to detail , no right or wrong it just boils down to personal preference , hopefully without stepping on Stevens toes here is the same mount (narrow top) with a 1527/1Y and a custom machined water jacket .

[Fluid]

Beautiful work Peter! I have a general question though....what is the thought process of guys who design cooling jackets? The best flow pattern is water entering at the lowest point and exiting at the highest point. This ensures the fastest and most complete replacement of heated water out of the jacket.

I see that most jackets have the inlet and outlet only 90 degrees apart, and they are usually mounted with the inlet at least 45 degrees below the top. What this does is create an airlock that prevents water form getting to the top of the motor - arguably the hottest part. The UL-1 jacket as it comes on the boat is worse with both inlet and outlet side-by-side - with this configuration the top half of the motor doesn't even get water. At least mount the outlet as high as possible, meaning the top front of the motor.

Below is how I changed my UL-1 so that the outlet is on top to prevent an airlock. It would be more efficient if the inlet was low on the side or on the bottom.

[ozboater]

interesting stuff... very nice looking mount... reminds me of high end mtb machining...

[Punisher 67]

Jay Turner I have to start this by saying hello , I agree with your solution and really haven't fully thought it out with 100% efficiency and cooling in mind but In 20 years of cooling motors I have never blown one due to poor cooling either , the water inside that jacket because the boat is bouncing around will work some of the air pocket out ( in theory ) and does jostle around all over the place inside the jacket but I will say your setup definitely has the edge over mine , that for sure is something to consider with future jackets

My first watercooled boat used a cobalt 40 using modified muffler tubing back in the mid 80's , been kind of using this same design since without really thinking things through

........................................

[Punisher 67]

most if not all waterjackers are of simular design to mine with the pickups 90 degrees apart and 45degrees from the top . I am most certainly going to this spring mount a sensor inside the casing at the top , try both ways and see what differance there is , I am most certainly curious now.........

[Jeff Wohlt]

J.M. I might do the same with saving money but there are advantages to mounting wider....torque. Even through torque is torque it can make a boat run differently. I always mounted my hydro motors way up from so the torque is put on the front sponson and not in the tub midway.

You can certainly make an easy mount to go across to rails with noting more than 1/8" alum just like the UL-1 design is. Makes the boat stronger as well.

Even though I use the old mounts I never did like putting that much stress and torque on such a small footprint in the hull.

I also can't use a mount that nice that looks better than the rest of my build :)

I agree with Jay....you should have the inlet at the lower end and the exit up top so the can fills. Sloshing around may work but constant water and pressure will make sure the can is always full.