New scratch build 24" mono

[fweasel]

Love the color combo. I can almost hear the song playing now...

[jfrabat]

Love the color combo. I can almost hear the song playing now...

Thanks! I am also happy with the colors. The Cigarette 1 logos will make it pop even more (I want to put those on once I am done with painting, and I am out of white!). And once the white letters come in, it will look even better! But for that, I will need to wait for the vynil cutting place to open.

Anyway, more progress! Cockpit is coming along nicely.

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I will try to glass the cockpit today. I will only use one layer for the cockpit. Also need to install the front dowels and make the rear holes for the nylon bolts on the back. Color scheme will be white for the interior cockpit, same as the boat for the exterior. Engine bay still undecided (maybe red? Not sure yet what to do with it).

I cannot wait to get the hardware, motor and ESC for this thing! I want to see it with some hardware installed!!! I am even tempted to put some aluminium tubes on the back to simulate real exhausts... Hmm... maybe even make them the water outlet? I may have to ponder that idea!

[Jesse J]

Very nice work, looks amazing!

[jfrabat]

Very nice work, looks amazing!

Thanks! Today I did some progress. Well, to be perfectly honest, I spent more time fixing my own screw ups than making progress, yet progress was made none the less! I still got 2 visible screw ups, but they are staying in; not much I can do about them now!

First off, made some progress in painting the canopy/hatch. (1st screw up, the center line is crocked! But I ran out of black also, so it is staying like that). I also put on the Cigarette 1 sticker (2nd screw up, as the borders of the sticker bent under the sticker in 3 places, but, again, it is staying like that).

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By the way, the rear hatch is not fully closed on the picture, so ignore that (I just did not want to touch the paint before it fully cured, and the rear red was the last thing I painted).

The side stickers I will put on AFTER I paint the white bottom hull again (but as you can see, they are printed and cut and ready to go!). In my other boat, the masking tape ripped off one of the water slide stickers, and I do not want to risk that again! As for the interior of the cockpit, I was thinking painting it white, but I kind of dig the wooden look.

[jfrabat]

Well, not much more I can do on this boat at least until the white paint or the hardware and electronics come in except admire it a bit... So, I put in 4 battery packs in it (a 1000MAh 3S, a 1800MAh 3s, a 2100 MAh 3S, and a big @$$ NiMH pack from an old Roomba vacuum cleener) to simulate the final weight of the model with the guts in. Here is how she floated:

20200507-123214.jpg

Now the waiting part comes...

[Jesse J]

I think these scratch builds Truly embody this hobby!
You call them screw ups, but they are really learnings. Especially a scratch design and build, with some design-as-you-go mods. Keep it up!
Have you seen the outdrive by proboat? This is a 17inch boat, but I think it would look great on yours..

[jfrabat]

Oh, man! I did not even CONSIDER outdrives! I SHOULD have! Imagine something like this on the back of that boat:

B42515-Red1_medium.JPG

Oh, man! I am just kicking myself now for not buying that!!!

But, the things I did order are coming in today, so I will use what I ordered... Still... If only I would have checked!!!

[jfrabat]

Well, the parts got in... Houston, we have a problem!

I already wrote to Steven to figure out the best way to handle it (they are off until Monday), but seems like the rudder system and flex cable were incorrect.

Well, the rudder system certainly is, at least. I ordered the Optura Offset Rudder System, which should look like this:

large__31_03_2007_16_53_oct_offset_rudd_pkg.JPG

But received this instead:

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Obviously, that will not work in a Mono hull...

Flex cable also seems a bit thin for a .130; in fact, the threaded part is WAY too short for the props (check out the 40 1.4 prop in it!):

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Could this be God/Faith/The Universe telling me I need to get an outdrive for this boat???

I am really liking this one!!!

B42515-Red1_medium.JPG

I wonder if it will work on a mono hull with an angled stern; can it be adjusted like that? Or would I need a bracket to place it perpendicular to the water?

Of course, if I go in that direction it WOULD leave me with an extra motor... I could always fix that with a new boat, though!

[jfrabat]

OK, guys. Need help with setting up the turn fins and the trim tabs. I got a couple of questions:

Turn Fins:
1. I take it the sharpened edge goes to the outside of the boat, right? Like this:
20200508_173920.jpg

2. The fins go perpendicular to the angle of the chine, right? Like this:
20200508-174036.jpg

3. Turn fins should go on the outermost point of the hull, right?

4. How deep should I set them up to be?

Trim Tabs:
1. Should I make the base angle 0* (parallel to the keel)? Or should I leave a bit of negative angle (raised up slightly)? I know this is NOT the correct angle...
20200508_173903.jpg

2. Would I be OK in bending these in the vise to get them to a parallel angle with the keel?

3. I take it the best position is on the outermost point of the hull, just inboard of the turn fins, correct?

General:
1. Should I install these even though I do not yet have a drive system? Or should I wait for the drive to arrive (whichever type it may be)? I still cannot install them today, as I need to wait for the white paint first!

[fweasel]

I put the sharpened edge on the outside for turn fins. It probably doesn't really matter. Yes, perpendicular to the button of the hull. I usually mount them wide and low on the transom which give you more potential depth depending on the angle you select. They're ultimate depth depends on conditions. Race water, deeper the better. Sport running, sweep them back so they're only in the water when turning.

Trim tabs should be installed about 1/16" above the bottom of the hull, not flush with it. Yes, bending them in a vise is fine. I usually start with mine just touching a straight edge run along the bottom of the hull. They serve to extend the length of the hull in terms of hydrodynamic affects, but the farther they're angled down, the more they act like brakes. Usually installed as low on the transom as the driveline allows, not out by the turn fins. I'd wait to mount them until you settle on your strut or outdrive situation.

[jfrabat]

I put the sharpened edge on the outside for turn fins. It probably doesn't really matter. Yes, perpendicular to the button of the hull. I usually mount them wide and low on the transom which give you more potential depth depending on the angle you select. They're ultimate depth depends on conditions. Race water, deeper the better. Sport running, sweep them back so they're only in the water when turning.

Trim tabs should be installed about 1/16" above the bottom of the hull, not flush with it. Yes, bending them in a vise is fine. I usually start with mine just touching a straight edge run along the bottom of the hull... ...Usually installed as low on the transom as the driveline allows, not out by the turn fins. I'd wait to mount them until you settle on your strut or outdrive situation.

Thanks fweasel. This helps a lot...

They serve to extend the length of the hull in terms of hydrodynamic affects, but the farther they're angled down, the more they act like brakes.

Oh, I use them all the time in real boats... They also serve to balance the boat (counteract torque) and to set the angle of plane (bow down for rough water, bow up for maximum speed).

@fweasel, @JesseJ, @NativePaul, you think this combo of motor/outdrive will work well for me?

B42515-Red1_medium.JPG

I know speed will be less than the Leopard motor, but we were all thinking that one was overpowered anyway, right?

It says "suggested for boats in the 25-35" range" (so I am 1" out of the range!), and includes:
(1) SSS 2960 Motor 2200kv
(1) Outdrive
(1) 36mm bronze propeller

Looking at the image, it does not seem to be able to adjust for the angle of my stern, but I can make a bracket to make the mount 90*.

p1-outdrive-dimensions.jpg

Oh, and by the way, I updated the color scheme, and decided to change the name of the boat...

Cigarette-Final.jpg

[Jesse J]

I have that on a 24” boat with no turn fins or tabs and it is a wild ride!
It has a small amount of adjustability 1 or 2 deg max.
You can tame it down with a smaller prop or try it on 3s.
As for torque roll, I weight up the port side so it sits a little low on that side... but I don’t spend much time sitting still.
Also, weight on port helps the long skinny boats be almost self righting.
Again, the tabs are not necessarily needed; with correct setup the boat is fine with out.
And turn fins will add an ugly spot on a fine scale build!
I vote for this outdrive or the steerable faux outboard drive... but then again it is your project!

I can post a pic of mine if you like.

[jfrabat]

I have that on a 24? boat with no turn fins or tabs and it is a wild ride!

"Wild ride" as in "fun to drive" or as in "difficult to control"?

You can tame it down with a smaller prop or try it on 3s.

Do you run it with 4S? It says it needs 3S on the site... I do not gave 3S packs.

It has a small amount of adjustability 1 or 2 deg max.

I will need to make a bracket then. Not a really big problem, though.

As for torque roll, I weight up the port side so it sits a little low on that side... but I don?t spend much time sitting still.
Also, weight on port helps the long skinny boats be almost self righting.
Again, the tabs are not necessarily needed; with correct setup the boat is fine with out.
And turn fins will add an ugly spot on a fine scale build!

I think I will do similar, and load on the port. I would install the tabs, but mostly because I think they help with the scale look, but if I go with the P1, I will skip the turn fins.

I have that on a 24? boat...

Steven mentioned in an e-mail that this drive will make the boat slower and will add a lot of maintenance. Could you share a video of you boat running, to have an idea of the speed I could expect? And are you using the stock prop? Also, what is maintenance like?

[Jesse J]

I found that the center of the prop works well even with the keel. That means your transom would have to be 65mm high to accommodate the outdrive unit you show. And you would need a vertical mount...
I modify my vote to the steerable faux outboard.

Maybe you could design your next build around the outdrive unit? They sure are sexy!

[jfrabat]

I found that the center of the prop works well even with the keel. That means your transom would have to be 65mm high to accommodate the outdrive unit you show. And you would need a vertical mount...
I modify my vote to the steerable faux outboard.

Maybe you could design your next build around the outdrive unit? They sure are sexy!

I have 68mm in the transome... I was measuring to see if it would fit last night, and it would. I would just need to replace 2 bolts to make them longer. Bit it would fit... Maybe carve a bit the rear square balsa block I used to keep the canopy in place, but that is overdone anyway, so no huge issue.