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20200418_100810_compress91.jpg20200418_100720_compress42.jpg20200418_100707_compress87.jpg20191110_141831_compress28.jpg Got my goodies back from the powder coater. It took me a little over a week to get things cleaned up, even after all the masking and plugging of holes. I was thankful they stayed open and working during this weird time. Had to cut the clutches down quite a bit in order to make them fit, as shown in that last picture. Now just sealing penatrations and installing parts. Trying to remember how i put it together the first time. More to come, stayed tuned!
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I usually turn down my MBP collets too. Bulky for sure.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph) -
I’ve turned down some H&M couplers. Too long for spec motors.
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20200420_190407_compress20.jpg20200420_190314_compress3.jpg Here's a couple shots of the receiver housing before i bury it in the transom. Foam and liquid tape, yeehaw!Comment
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20200423_054714_compress80.jpg20200423_054656_compress77.jpg20200423_054838_compress68.jpg I never took any photos of the rudder as i was machining it. What a pain in the butt! It turned out less then perfect and the powder coating covered up all my mistakes. Anyways, here it is all dolled up.Comment
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20200423_054904_compress68.jpg20200423_201252_compress50.jpg20200423_201133_compress57.jpg20200423_201113_compress57.jpg Well gang, we're getting right down to it. I've been chasing a leak somewhere in the port side strut. I think i have it figured out now. Should have a dry boat shortly.Comment
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Do you have any whole boat shots? Yes action shots are always loved!"Look good doin' it"
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20200525_070551_compress54.jpg Not quite as quick as i thought she'd be. However, she is under propped considering her weight. The day before, i lost the port side speed control. Brand new sf220+ smoked! Lucky i had a back up that still worked. My SF graveyard still growing hehe!Comment
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20200612_081527_compress67.jpg20200612_081527_compress67.jpg20200612_081531_compress87.jpg20200612_130316_compress57.jpg20200612_130300_compress76.jpg Well kids, i got good news and bad news (for me that is...) she ran a best of 74.3 and was quite possibly on her way to a high 70 low 80 pass when catastrophic failure reared its ugly head once more. She made a "ratatatatatatat"of unbalanced ness, and when she only wanted to turn left i knew then i had cooked another speed controller. This is a real bummer because i have no idea where to get another sf220+. This all being said, there is clearly a problem. Granted the motors are the same kv in theory, they are not a matched set or of the same batch for that matter. When i turn the motors by hand i can feel the newer motor has more resistance then the other, and this is the problem side. Data also said one side was a few thousand rpm behind the other, i forget which side but i will certainly pay attention this time. I have some homework to do and would appreciate anyone's thoughts or suggestions on my problem. All in all I'm still pretty happy with performance, she is a beast on the big end! Anyone know where i can score a sf220+, I'm in the market, haha!Comment
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Scott, what hull is this? What motors, not matched? Same brand?, props, batts (voltage, c rating, matched?)... complete setup please. When you bench test, does one motor start first? When you blew the esc’s, how long did you run before checking temp? Esc & motors? How long are your motor leads, battery leads? Need all the data bro..
I’ve done a number of twinsies.. not just double trouble but trouble squared."Look good doin' it"
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Pro boat"Miss Geico" with a trued bottom, no negative angles. Motors- TP 4030 3267kv, one purchased in late'16 early'17 for a single setup only ran a handful of times. Second purchased late'17 early'18 for the "Gecko build". Esc's- SF220+, purchased from OSE brand new for"Gecko build". Batteries- Revolectrix blend 435 4400 70c x4. 2 in series then paralleled 4s. Battery leads uncut w/ castle 8mm bullets and 16awg lead going into 47 resistor one battery each side for anti spark. Capacitors- Kill Mode RC 3 pack 10awg leads 3-4"long soldered as close as i could get to esc board w/o melting things. 20191025_054507_compress77.jpg20191025_054455_compress20.jpg20191025_054419_compress80.jpg20191022_173838_compress29.jpg
External bec- Castle wp2.0 connected to 16awg parallel jumpers w/ 1.5 or 2mm bullets, can't remember which size. Now, i should tell u the battery w/o the anti spark lead on the left side (problem side) has a cell that lags a tenth or 2 of a volt behind the rest, meaning when the others read 4.20 it reads 4.0 or 4.10 but will eventually reach full capacity. I know this is not helping my situation, and i do charge them to 4.35 per cell. No motor leads cut as i believe they are consider part of the windings on tp motors. No motor leads cut on speed controllers, i need the length to reach the motors. Now, like i mentioned in previous post, when motors turned over by hand, the newer motor (left side/ problem side) has more resistance. This tells me that although the motors are the same kv, the windings are a touch different. Data also said there was a 2-3k difference. I don't know how much this matters, but it can't be good. Temps on motors were about 80-100?f depending on air/ water temps and run time with problem side running 20?warmer. If rt side is 80?, problem side is 100?. Same goes for the speed controllers with temps reaching 100-130?. Problem side runs about 20? warmer. Both incidents happened on first pass. I'd cruise to my starting destination, turn around then ease into her till wfo for a solid 4-500'. Both passes netting best mph #'s. Props- Dasboata ABC 1615 cut down to 36mm. Rpm in the 40k range. Although i don't know the weight of her, i can tell u, she weighs more then double that of a stock, fully loaded Miss Geico. I know i am pushing the envelope with the rpm so i expect there will be problems, but this one should be avoidable. The right side with older motor, no problems, even after limping her in after the first incident. I think I've covered about everything. Thank you for taking the time and an interest.Comment
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Just to be clear, you rotate the motors not attached to flex (I assume .150”)? How do the free flexes turn unattached to the motors? Teflon liner or no? Have you tried switching motors? I don’t use sf escs; too many failures for me. I’m still pondering the situation... still need more details.. do you always use same two pack on each side? Are they bridged, meaning 4s2p splitting off to each motor?
Thems rpms! This makes reducing the difference even more critical."Look good doin' it"
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