Q-Sport Build of Shooters New Pearl Design

[Speed810]

I picked up the framing kits for the new Spec-Sport and P-Sport Pearl design from Pete a few weeks ago. I really like the sponson and hull design changes that were made. I think this new hull design is going to be a fast hull with a little tweaking and experimenting. Both the LSH and P-Sport frames are completed and awaiting decking.

So I started thinking that it would be really great to have a Q sport boat with this new hull design and have a fleet....HAHA. I knew Pete was thinking that he would like to get a Q boat out there with this design, but wasn't sure when that might happen. He's a busy guy with a regular job and family.... So I talked to Pete to see if he minded if I used his base design and enlarge/modify it to a Q boat. Pete said heck ya, go for it.

After doing some calculations and making sure that the hull was going to meet NAMBA Hull design criteria I came up with a 12% enlargement was needed to give me 37 1/2" hull length. So I traced out each of the P-Sport parts on to graph paper and took them down to a buddy that made the enlargement and printed new parts. This where the fun came in when I started thinking about the integrity of the hull with extra weight, power and speed. I redesigned the interior tub section slightly using 1/4" ply interior rails, motor mount bulkhead is 1/4" with 1/4" bulkhead stantions and using 3/16 sq. sticks through out the hull. The interior rail was also moved outward to widen the tub section for battery space and ESC. So these were the major modifications and really it was a lot of fun figuring it out with mod's to all the bulkheads and the back two sponson bulkheads.

After the modifications were complete I started to trace out the parts on ply, cut out each part and start the initial pin up of the hull. The pictures below are the initial setup and pieces that I have been able to complete since starting cutting over the weekend....LOL Yep....slow process.

So I am contemplating motor & ESC to go into this boat. I kind of want to see where it comes in weight wise compared to my ML GSX 380 hull, which has the Leopard 5692, 1340kv motor in it. So any and all suggestions and ideas are welcome for motor and ESC selection.
I'll keep the pictures coming as I move along....but it is a slow process with the framework and maintaining a square hull design.

[Shooter]

Incredible. Can't wait to see this out on the pond.

[T.S.Davis]

Wonder what happens if you just throw 5s in a standard pearl. hmmmm I just happen to have one sitting.

[Speed810]

Interesting Idea...???

Wonder what happens if you just throw 5s in a standard pearl. hmmmm I just happen to have one sitting.

That's an interesting idea....I have a few of them sitting around too....LOL

[Speed810]

A little progress

Made a little progress the last few nights. Added the the two main sponson stringers and the front fuselage/sponson bulkhead. Everything is fitting together pretty well with some minor filing of some sponsoin slots for the stringers. So far i'm pretty pleased how everything is squaring up on the initial setup. We'll see how it goes when I start gluing everything up.

Not hearing much on motor options....would really be interested in your ideas.

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[T.S.Davis]

I have mixed emotions on motor options. The 1527/1y is still the best all around motor on 6s I've seen for ovals. Works in everything. Last time I ordered a custom 56 series it came in a gigantic oversized can. It was so heavy it became a burden. I think there's a fine line sort of balancing point between available power and weight. Even in the P boat we've downsized motor from the 4070. Still not perfect but consistent and the boat will still run through any conditions.

I raced a Leopard at the CanAm. Plenty fast against a 1527. Boats were pretty even. I've also ran Kevin's 56mm in the Whip but mine is a freak show. I'm building a Whip for Dan that will likely get a 56 but I'll bet there's a perfect 4070 from TP we haven't run. Somewhere around 1250kv......ish.

We may have to experiment this summer with some different options. I think these Q boats have more to give. We just haven't focused on it of late. Better batteries.

[T.S.Davis]

That's an interesting idea....I have a few of them sitting around too....LOL

The old boat that Tyler ran trials with is just sitting but it's disintegrating. Crappy builder.

[Shooter]

I was going to get a custom wind 1400kv from TP. I know it puts the rpm over 35k, but I'm running near 40k in P and it's kickin butt with no temp issues.

[T.S.Davis]

Didn't we try that with the Neu 1.5D wind?

1400kv is a stock wind for TP. That might be perfect for this new boat.

I wish I had as much time as I do ideas.

[Speed810]

I was going to get a custom wind 1400kv from TP. I know it puts the rpm over 35k, but I'm running near 40k in P and it's kickin butt with no temp issues.

Pete....Is that a TP 4070 motor?

[Speed810]

Some more Sponson work done

Keep plugging along piece by piece....LOL Cut and fit the remaining sponson bulkheads and sponson side rails. Its actually starting to look like a hydroplane... With a little minor filing and sanding to true up bulkhead slots the parts all fit nice and snug. So this takes care of the right sponson....Now to finish off the left and I should be ready to start gluing up the frame.

In the past I had always just tack glued up the frame with CA and then went back over the frame with epoxy and glass cloth along most all joints. But, Terry I think i read in another thread where you had just used epoxy to glue up your hull. Was contemplating doing that with this boat. Can you share what epoxy you used and any special method / tips and tricks....LOL????? I was just thinking good old Z-Poxy 30 minute and maybe thinned a tad so it soaks into the wood joints. Did you go back and use any glass cloth on the joints? My thought is that it may not need that if using epoxy right off the bat.

Here is a good question....with the motor mount bulkhead beefed up to 1/4" with an 1/8" aluminum plate; you guys think it would support a 56mm motor?? OR should I look at a rear support / just use a 56mm standard motor mount instead of the bulkhead mount?

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Hope you and your families are doing well.....

[T.S.Davis]

Since Pete introduced me to the Fiskar wheel I'll be glassing joints forever more. Takes an extra hour or so but who gives a crap? So we invest X number of man hours into a boat and then get all nit picky over an extra hour or two. Really? I'm doing it. Make a stiffer boat that can take a beating. You've seen me drive. I'm going to hit the stink'n buoy.

You can still tac a boat with CA but for me just a dot here and a dot there. A bead in a joint is a killer. Once you run a bead.........no epoxy is getting in there. Even if you add glass on top of the CA it wont be as strong as making a matrix out of the two pieces of wood and the epoxy. CA is virtually useless in my opinion.

For years I used what ever epoxy I could get fer cheap. Even bought some ebay stuff. Epoxy is epoxy. Accept.....no it isn't. At all. Ball turned me on to West Systems years ago and wont build using anything else now. It's consistent, it's forgiving, and so far it's forever. I've not had any get weird on me where it gets brittle and cracks. Fingers crossed. That said, even the fast cure takes hours. That's my go to. Makes build time go up exponentially.

Trick to using good (pricey) epoxy is mixing small batches so you don't burn through it. You can do that with an itty bitty cheapo gram scale. That sounds like a big deal but it's nothing to do. Or you get little children's size medicine syringes with ML's marked on them. I keep those full and on hand at all times.

[Speed810]

Since Pete introduced me to the Fiskar wheel I'll be glassing joints forever more. Takes an extra hour or so but who gives a crap? So we invest X number of man hours into a boat and then get all nit picky over an extra hour or two. Really? I'm doing it. Make a stiffer boat that can take a beating. You've seen me drive. I'm going to hit the stink'n buoy.

You can still tac a boat with CA but for me just a dot here and a dot there. A bead in a joint is a killer. Once you run a bead.........no epoxy is getting in there. Even if you add glass on top of the CA it wont be as strong as making a matrix out of the two pieces of wood and the epoxy. CA is virtually useless in my opinion.

For years I used what ever epoxy I could get fer cheap. Even bought some ebay stuff. Epoxy is epoxy. Accept.....no it isn't. At all. Ball turned me on to West Systems years ago and wont build using anything else now. It's consistent, it's forgiving, and so far it's forever. I've not had any get weird on me where it gets brittle and cracks. Fingers crossed. That said, even the fast cure takes hours. That's my go to. Makes build time go up exponentially.

Trick to using good (pricey) epoxy is mixing small batches so you don't burn through it. You can do that with an itty bitty cheapo gram scale. That sounds like a big deal but it's nothing to do. Or you get little children's size medicine syringes with ML's marked on them. I keep those full and on hand at all times.

Thanks Terry....I'm with ya on the CA. I will as much as possible stick with thin CA to tack everything up and being careful not to load joints up so expoxy can not make a good joint with glass cloth and wood. You start gobbing the thicker CA in there and your just defeating the purpose. I've had pretty good success with Z-Poxy, but when doing glass cloth joints I stick with West Systems. Haven't had any problems since using it except when using it on the pearl that I decked out in G10....but I'm thinking I really needed to prepare the surfaces a lot better as the cause of that.

Think I'll stick with these methods that have proven to work well...

Yea....I hate those buoys too....LOL I swear my boats have a buoy radar system on them.....RADAR CONTACT 11 O"CLOCK and 200 feet.....BANG!!!! LOL

[T.S.Davis]

It's like we're aiming for them. Maybe that's the answer......aim for them. We aint that good.

[Shooter]

Looking good Mike. I haven't decided yet, but 4070 most likely. I've switched to epoxy for the entire build. Initially because of allergies, but then found that brushing epoxy in the slots of both parts, then mating together really makes a string bond. Slow hardener is best IMO. Then, later I brush on a coat and dab tiny glass strips (about 3/4" x 3/4") on each seam. Very thin glass to conform to corners. 3/4oz.