Dan-O's SAW Tsunami build!

[Turbo Dan-O]

Finally getting started on this project! No more playing around. I've been gathering the best parts I could find for a while and it's time to see what we can do. The goal for this boat is 100% SAW speed on 4 and 6s. I don't care about run time, handling, ect. I want to beat my personal bests with my Pursuit and hopefully shoot for some IMPBA records. Current records are just under 80MPH for Q and S. Yikes! That being said, I need all the advice I can possibly get from you guys on how to "rig" this thing for what I'm wanting to do. I've been reading on here for almost ten years, so I feel like I have an okay idea of what I need to do, but PLEASE double check me before I drill any holes or glue anything down. I'm all ears and in no hurry. I'm super picky and want it right!

Anyway, here's some pics of where we're starting. A new 32.5" Tsunami hull from MHZ in Germany. Super good people to deal with and they make some killer stuff! I've looked at a million hulls, but I absolutely love the lines of the Tsunami and I feel like the bottom will work well. What a cool looking float!

[Fluid]

It is difficult to “double check” your choices if you don’t share them....



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[Turbo Dan-O]

I stayed up late last night and brought in the new year doing the inlay with two layers of carbon fiber on the floor and transom. Also, went around the seam with chopped carbon and packed some in the nose. I used West System 105/206 for the epoxy resin. That stuff is amazing. She's still super light but should be able to take a hit now! I think doing inlays is by far the most stressful part of this whole hobby. Wooo, glad that part is over!





Here is some of the hardware I have for it. Stinger and trim tabs from Speedmaster and rudder(one with and one without cooling) from MTC in Germany. The motor mount is from TFL but I'm not sure that will get used on this project. I want the motor to be as low as possible.



The ESC I have is a SF 300 with datalogging. Hopefully it's no too "outdated".

[Turbo Dan-O]

It is difficult to ?double check? your choices if you don?t share them....



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I'm still posting! Hang on Fluid, I'm getting to it...

Okay, for mounting the stinger: The Speedmaster has a little bit of height adjustment. My Pursuit ran really good until I started pushing it pretty fast(mid 60s) and ran into chine walk. I was told I needed to raise the height but that wasn't adjustable with the stinger on that boat. Adding positive angle fixed the chine walk but I figured that was maybe a band-aid. That being said, I was planning on mounting this stinger at the same height as the Pursuit for the "lowest setting" and having the ability to bring it up. I realize this will need a flood tube. I'm perfectly fine with that if it's needed. Also, is dead center where I need to put it? I've been to a few SAW races and have seen some offset setups. Those were on gas boats with big props though...

[zooma]

Nice inlay. Would you tell me how you cut the carbon cloth to shape and handle it without the edges coming unraveled?

[mobius]

If you haven't seen it already you mignt be interested in this:

https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/monos-built-strickly-for-saw.53230/

[RaceMechaniX]

Saw mono's tend to crash pretty hard so a couple recommendations.
-use 2 part 4lb foam in the nose to add flotation and strength.
-Make sure the hatch is reinforced and has pins of some type of secondary securing device like thumb screws. Also add some flotation to the cowl.
-Make sure you use stout hardware on the back.
-Buy several additional rudder blades, they tend to bend in most crashes.
-Make sure the hull and hardware will float with the cowl off.
-Scuff the bottom with 400grit sandpaper.
-Use a very secure battery mounting system. In crashes it is very common for the batteries to come loose and often hit the cowl popping it open.

[dasboata]

Saw mono's tend to crash pretty hard so a couple recommendations.
-use 2 part 4lb foam in the nose to add flotation and strength.
-Make sure the hatch is reinforced and has pins of some type of secondary securing device like thumb screws. Also add some flotation to the cowl.
-Make sure you use stout hardware on the back.
-Buy several additional rudder blades, they tend to bend in most crashes.
-Make sure the hull and hardware will float with the cowl off.
-Scuff the bottom with 400grit sandpaper.
-Use a very secure battery mounting system. In crashes it is very common for the batteries to come loose and often hit the cowl popping it open.

Tyler these guys don't want to know about 2 part foam please don't tip them off about the best way to reinforce there hull !!!!

[Turbo Dan-O]

Thanks guys, great info! I'll read every post in that International Waters thread tonight. Looks like some good reading.

I'll make sure to beef everything up as good as I can. Trying to keep weight down but a little extra might not be a bad thing with good power huh? Yeah, I thought expanding foam was a big no no. Always thought that was a great idea and wanted to try it but I've heard a several horror stories. Maybe that was from stuff out of a can and not "two part". Might have to give that a try!

[Turbo Dan-O]

Nice inlay. Would you tell me how you cut the carbon cloth to shape and handle it without the edges coming unraveled?

I think I've read every inlay post on the internet!

For making templates, I use cloth for the floor and thin plastic for the transom. I tape the cloth to the outside of the hull and mark it, cut it, and test fit it on the inside. Most people use paper but I like the way cloth lays in there like the carbon will. To trace the templates and keep the edges from coming apart, I found some nice 1/8" tape at Hobby Lobby. Tape goes face down. I've heard of a few guys using super glue instead of tape. Sounds like a cool idea! Something I did on this one is use spray adhesive to hold everything in place where I wanted it in the hull. Also, used a small foam roller to even out the epoxy. Worked pretty good!

[RaceMechaniX]

The key with two parts foam is to do it in small batches and allow 20 minutes between batches. I use a small dixie cup filled about 3/4 of the way with both parts.
Tape all the openings as it's a messy process. When you pour the foam in roll it around so it coats as much surface as possible.
There is a pretty good risk the top surface will bulge a little.

[Darin Jordan]

I would like to add, when doing the 2-Part Foam, do it in a way where you do NOT have to trim it. It'll resist absorbing water if the skin remains in-tact. If you trim it, it'll absorb water. Found this out the hard way awhile back when doing a 44" Gas Delta-Force build.

DF_Foam.JPG

[Turbo Dan-O]

We need a "like" button on here. Thanks guys! Sounds like small batches is the way to go.

I read through that whole International Waters thread. Lots of good stuff in there. I guess my plan is to put the stinger dead center and the trim tabs as close in to the center as possible. I was thinking 1/8" up on the tabs. What I really want to know is how high I should mount the prop shaft. Like I said, all I have to go off of is my Pursuit, but the Tsunami's bottom is a bit different. It has a much flatter keel and with a little work could be a flat pad. This Speedmaster stinger has a little bit of movement but not much. What do you guys think?

ywUJBtvb.jpg

[dasboata]

I posted a vid on my
dasboata Facebook page on how I use 2 part foam . I rarely get any swelling ,, I had to block the sound because of the music


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[Turbo Dan-O]

I checked it out. Thanks!

Got the stinger and tabs bolted up. Woooo, that's sexy!