Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

[longballlumber]

Nice build as usual Pete!

I would encourage you to greatly reduce the rear sheeting length. That much depth to the interior rear transom makes working on transom hardware a PIA!. Heck you could make a rear "bait box" in turn shortening your vacuum molded cowling. The long flat section of the cowling is the weakest anyhow. Just food for thought.

Eventually I am going to finish/build one of these super fast designs!

[Shooter]

I like this idea. That front two frame pcs could have the contour of the nose in them. I hate taping with a hump though.... ugh.

Pete, a nose of sorts that's attached to the front of the tube. Maybe a laser cut piece of bass wood. Contour file and sand that to blend with a canopy with the canopy tape line on top. Sorta like the tape line on a Thomas.

[Shooter]

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I've been so focused on reducing the length of the canopy to fit my new vacuum former that I forgot about the option of making a well or a separate cavity. Definitely will incorporate that.

If you set a record with the obsolete design, I can't imagine what you could do with the "SUPER FAST" version!

Nice build as usual Pete!

I would encourage you to greatly reduce the rear sheeting length. That much depth to the interior rear transom makes working on transom hardware a PIA!. Heck you could make a rear "bait box" in turn shortening your vacuum molded cowling. The long flat section of the cowling is the weakest anyhow. Just food for thought.

Eventually I am going to finish/build one of these super fast designs!

[jaike5]

Hi Pete, We did the formed wood nose screwed and glued to the canopy with a 1/16 step up, about an inch back from the front edge of the canopy where you can slide the tape under the nose so you don't have to tape over the hump.
If you like I can send you a pic of grape nutz with Larry's canopy. Need your email address.
Cheers, Jay.

[T.S.Davis]

Jay, text it to me and I'll post it here for you.

[Shooter]

Sanded, sealed, and sanded again. Ready for hardware and primer.

I also cut parts for the P-Sport boat. Just finished sanding all the burn marks from the laser with the palm sander. I know it's not necessary, but it sure makes the boat look cleaner. I also laser cut the first 'skins' to see how they will fit.

[rightturnonly]

Looking good Pete!!! We had so much water down here in Bama I could have just tossed a boat out the front door!!!

[T.S.Davis]

Caught myself referring to this new boat as the Mini Pearl again. Maybe hang a tag off an antenna tube or something.

[Shooter]

I'm making a lot of progress on the full P boat. The bottom width is just slightly over 12" , so we will need two separate bottom sheets. This might better define the kick-up angle. I will miss the straight line on the full length of the bottom sheet though, as it helps keep the build straight, but we will still have that from the bulkhead back.

[T.S.Davis]

Just get a 24" wide sheet.

[Shooter]

Yep. I was thinking long term......for kitting/shipping.

More progress on the P.

[Shooter]

Installed the stuffing tube in the LSH. Used WS and about 20pcs of very thin glass strips. I also started adding fillets to inside radii using WS and micro balloons whenever I have extra epoxy. I honestly think this is what separates a boat that has a cup of water in it after a run, and a boat that is bone dry!

[T.S.Davis]

Everything we took to Florida was stone dry. Even Ty's Stealth. We stuffed all his new Futaba gear in balloons just in case too. We'll leave em in there. Why tempt fate right?

That rough water did de-laminate the deck on the outside sponson of Ty's Pearl. Couple inches at the outside edge. Thanks to some Tyvek tape from Jay he didn't miss a heat. Adding that to my tool box for sure. All fixed now. It's the only failure we've had with the G10 boat. Some of us were wondering about that epoxy bond to the G10. Debatable whether it was the bond or just Tyler pushing harder than was necessary in horrible water. You know how he is. Especially if he sees an opportunity to lap someone he can give the business to later. He did but no razzing that I saw.

[T.S.Davis]

I also started adding fillets to inside radii using WS and micro balloons whenever I have extra epoxy.

I'll be doing this to the Whip40 I'm building for Danno too. Joints need attention if they're going to stay together.

[longballlumber]

Installed the stuffing tube in the LSH. Used WS and about 20pcs of very thin glass strips. I also started adding fillets to inside radii using WS and micro balloons whenever I have extra epoxy. I honestly think this is what separates a boat that has a cup of water in it after a run, and a boat that is bone dry!

Why all the hassle with tiny (20pcs) of glass vs. 1-3 normal sizes? Isn't that the point of using glass because it conforms to complex shapes and curves? Seems like extra work... Just my 2 pennies.

How did you get such a nice, consistent fillet?