Rocking red Rico P Lim mono

[Jesse J]

Hey gang,

I haven’t done a build thread for a while, and this one is my first dip into bling thing.

Here is most of my parts. I have some ideas that will be a little off menu...

Stay tuned and I will update as I make progress.

The plywood is my template that I will use to drill all my holes with. The first step is to fill existing holes and cover with 2mm cf plate; that is curing as I type.

Next The hull will need to be blueprinted since it has a significant hook and the trailing edge is rounded. As well as mitigating that pesky shoe box overhang (I am pretty excited about that part).

Don’t tell rookieboater that this is what will beat him at the nats this year...

[fweasel]

Are you installing a carbon flooded well? If so, what do you use to plug the inboard end where the stuffing tube passes through?

[Jesse J]

Are you installing a carbon flooded well? If so, what do you use to plug the inboard end where the stuffing tube passes through?

Hey Ryan, I use an adhesive shrink wrap. I think it starts at 3/4” diameter and shrinks down to hold a 1/4” stuffing tube firmly in place. I’ll update this post with the name and a link if possible, I need more myself. The beauty is that you can reposition with a little heat!

Here is a link... not cheap, but you only need about 2” max, so think of it as <$2 each application.


Here is another option, cheaper, but as good?

I just ordered some (second option) and would be willing to sell 1’ pieces at $6 shipped. That’s $1 per application.

[fweasel]

Clever solution, especially if you're using a T-bar to hold the stuffing tube in place near the motor.

[Jesse J]

Transom plate installed. Completely reset all holes..
Now I can attach the template and git them holes drilled!

[ray schrauwen]

Hey Ryan, I use an adhesive shrink wrap. I think it starts at 3/4” diameter and shrinks down to hold a 1/4” stuffing tube firmly in place. I’ll update this post with the name and a link if possible, I need more myself. The beauty is that you can reposition with a little heat!

Here is a link... not cheap, but you only need about 2” max, so think of it as <$2 each application.


Here is another option, cheaper, but as good?

I just ordered some (second option) and would be willing to sell 1’ pieces at $6 shipped. That’s $1 per application.

Nice.

[fweasel]

Jesse, Hit me up when the heat shrink arrives. I'll by happy to try some out for $6. Thanks for the offer.

[Jesse J]

Off menu work:
To remove the “shoebox effect” 2mm cf plate (dragon plate) and cf/Kevlar veneer ...

I had a pleasant surprise with blue printing the base.. no bondo!!
Next, I sanded the transom and sides, 5 min epoxyed 2mm cf plate, then will be attaching the veneer. Good news! It comes backed with 3M adhesive!! And, it can be cut with sheet metal shears.

As of now, only the transom is done. The sides show how I’m conquering the dreaded shoe box without using bondo

Don’t ask how much that 2’x2’ piece of veneer cost (under the boat in first pic)... unless you need some, then we can work something out.

[Jesse J]

Here is the final mock up of the transom. Still waiting on red trim tabs, but everything is pretty much there.
And a mock up of the motor mount with, yes a red servo.

[Jesse J]

Sides are almost done, one just needs it veneer..

[Jesse J]

Nearly dun

Aside from a few little things, the ghost pepper is done.
I need to trim the flex shaft a little, add some trim tabs and get the antenna out of the hull. Then she ready for a test run!!