Brushless & LiPo conversion

[Mad Hatter]

OK, So you won't help me out so I've decided to go with a leopard 3650 motor, it puts out 2,290KV at 14.8 Volts, equals 33,892 RPM. Along with a 1.7x1.6 Prop it should propell me to 65+ MPH in a 25" boat weighing less than 14 ounces.So I guess I'm on my own! What do you think of the 150 AMP OSE ESC? Still no Answer, All you have to do is ask me again about my budget or my financial situation. I will stop using OSE as my primary supplier. Yours, truly, -MAD-HATTER.

[Peter A]

The OSE Raider is a great esc, and will do the job you want it to here.

However if you get snarky just because you feel left out you will not likely get much help from people. It's your choice where you buy stuff, a lot of boaters here buy from OSE because they stock good products and have good service. Steven V is much appreciated in the FE community. Questions about your general budget are only to guage where you are at and to help with buying advice. The difference could be $100's or $1000's depending on a persons goals and aspirations. No one is trying to give you a hard time, so have a little grace.

[larryrose11]

...2,290KV at 14.8 Volts, equals 33,892 RPM. Along with a 1.7x1.6 Prop it should propell me to 65+ MPH in a 25" boat weighing less than 14 ounces

I believe you will have a difficult time getting to 65 MPH with a submerged drive.
Could you put a GPS in your boat?
I would love to be proven wrong. Its a great way to learn.

[Fluid]

I remember the Pantera when it was actually being used. It is a 1980s design based on round cells and brushed power - which means pretty heavy and slow. To help with performance the bottom has large lifting strakes and like most all RTR boats of the period it has a solid prop shaft and a submerged drive - see the photo. The Pantera is made of ABS plastic, which after over 30 years is now weaker and brittle.

What all this means is that the little 24” mono will never reach 65 mph, I’m not even sure it would stay on the water at much over 40 mph. The weak ABS means that if it did reach the 60s then the inevitable crashes would destroy it. I strongly recommend that if 60 mph is your goal then you should sell the ancient ABS hull and purchase one which is more capable.

[Mad Hatter]

I apologize for my snark behavior, I will definitely change my attitude, as well as the boat's. I will change it over to surface drive. This will take a lot more work than I initially planned. I just opened my package from OSE, it's awesome, the parts are of top quality especially the water cooled motor mount. I live on a reservoir, it's Smith Mountain Lake VA. I have a Yamaha wave runner, a 18 foot bowrider, 2 pontoon Boats, A 16 foot sailboat,also a canoe I have to secure before before Florence gets here. I will probably lose internet & electricity before this is over. Thanks to all, Ken

[Mad Hatter]

I'm back, tied up most of the vessels, but the lift won't work. I changed the gear plate a few years back, & I know How heavy that motor is! I'll just have to leave it and hope & pray for the best. I've received the Leopard motor & cooling jacket. It's like awesome sauce!! It's got wires so big that it wants you plug into a wall socket!

[srislash]

Take care Ken. Pontoon boats rock to run RC off of.

Shawn

[Mad Hatter]

Fluid, I understand exactly what you are saying, this boat would try to hop, skip & jump out of the water, if I don't do something about the drive angle. It's going to take a lot of epoxy, resin,& fiberglass work to accomplish this OK? Thank You, Very much for for your input, it is greatly appreciated! Ken

[Mad Hatter]

Thanks a lot Shawn, Smith Mountain Lake is rather Large. Google it sometime,it has 500 miles of shoreline, covers 3 county's & has a lot of secluded coves to run r/c boats on. Unfortunately there are no r/c boat clubs on the lake. The lake is about 3 feet low because they've drained it. In anticipation of hurricane Florence. Anyhow pontoons are great platforms to run r/c boats from, and they don't sink!!! -Ken-

[emspjay]

You will need major renovations on this boat to get it even close to your goal. I am old school and love the old school boats but as many have said its just easier to get a modern hull to run fast. I have an old Firehawk boat that is about the same size and specs as your MRP boat, (that was my first hobby grade boat back in the early 1990's) The one I have now I purchased with a 3650 brushless motor and ESC installed by the previous owner in the stock gear driven under water prop set up, I think it only ran about 25mph with the brushless setup on 2s (much faster than stock brushed for sure). You will need to strip that hull bare and reinforce with fiberglass and convert to strait shaft surface drive brushless with all new motor mount and all new hardware on the back of the boat. I took all the brushless stuff out of mine and did a vintage custom brushed build and I even reinforced the hull for that.

[Mad Hatter]

I understand, this emsjpay, I am no longer planning on this To go 60+ mph. However I am not sure how to set up this 4mm straight shaft. Should I run it straight through the the bottom of the transom or just below? I don't want to have to hang a strut off the back If I don't have to. I wish we'd all get over how fast it it will go and get on with the build. It maybe my opinion but I think it's doubtful that this hull only capable of 20mph.

[srislash]

Hatter, we had an old Parma Ski Tiger that had the solid shaft out the transom to run as surface drive. It worked well. So I would go shaft Center at 1/4-5-16” up from keel if possible.

[Mad Hatter]

Thanks srislash, I think I should have to go to approximately 1-2 inches off the transom before the prop? I know I won't be able to pull this off without having to spend a few $ on hardware. Where should I mount the single rudder? I'm thinking off to the starboard side of the vessel.Maybe along side the prop? Or just behind lt? I'm open to all suggestions. I've purchased lots of resin/hardener, CA glue, and JB weld. I also have fiberglass cloth and micro balloons on its way. I can't wait to get started!

[srislash]

The further off the transom the easier to tune for top straight speed. Closer to transom better for corners. This applies to rudder and prop location. But in reality that is fine tuning stuff and you aren’t going to be able to tune the prop angle. I recall the Parma being about an inch. But two would be fine and rudder offset to starboard beside prop and clear off it at full port turn.

Just mount the motor as low as possible inside hull. Ideally you want the prop straight out the back parallel with the keel. If you end up with abit of a negative(downward) you could run an ABC prop which has higher rake (15-17*).

[Mad Hatter]

Thanks a bunch, Srislash we are thinking along the same lines. I'm looking at the OSE-80052 rudder, what do you think? Do I need turn fins/trim tabs? There's not going a lot of space on this transom and I will be mostly making right hand turns isn't that the way most courses run? Thanks for the prop Info I'll look into it. -Ken-